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Mike Goetzke
09-21-2009, 01:26 AM
I've been working on my biggest project yet (at least size wise) - an entrance door with sidelights. A professional door builder on another forum has been very helpful in this project - now it's your turn:D.

I have many EZ tools and am a big EZ promoter. I have use these tools for many of my cabinet & furniture projects. However, on this project I have used my cabinet saw quite a bit because of the long (100"+) and thick (8/4) lumber required for the project (wish my PBB was 8' long :rolleyes:). I still used my long EZ rail to break down the rough sawn lumber - the 10-1/4" Makita came in handy for the 8/4 stock.

Now for the reason for the post. I'm getting close to the point of needing to provide rabbets in the door/sidelight posts and framing. To do this on the TS is a little intimidating - especially since I have one shot and no practice pieces. I was thinking of using the SRK but seems like it would be difficult to hold down the workpiece. Any tricks or suggestions welcome:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Projects/Entrance%20Door/framepost.jpg


Mike

Burt
09-21-2009, 08:29 PM
Mike,

I haven't built any exterior doors with the EZ and I don't know a lot about the kind of rabbits you need to make. From what I can see in your drawings, I think I would construct some kind of jig just to position the wood and then clamp the work into place. Since I'm not sure that I understand all that you are trying to do that may be off-base.

Burt

Dino
09-21-2009, 10:43 PM
Mike,
I have no idea why you can't use the SRK.
Make a scoring cut with your circular saw and follow up with the SRK.
We just made 160 legs for the SPB's with similar demands.
Take a look at the SRK forum.
Stay away from the tablesaw for this type of cuts.

http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=176

Call me if you like:
732-259-9984

Mike Goetzke
09-22-2009, 11:40 AM
Mike,
I have no idea why you can't use the SRK.
Make a scoring cut with your circular saw and follow up with the SRK.
We just made 160 legs for the SPB's with similar demands.
Take a look at the SRK forum.
Stay away from the tablesaw for this type of cuts.

http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=176

Call me if you like:
732-259-9984

Thanks for the link - it is very similar. I could do this all with the SRK except for the red highlighted area. This is a kerf cut for the door seal. I was thinking I could make this 2-5/8" deep cut on the TS maybe in such a way that the router would clean up the saw cut.

Thanks for the help!

(Dino - please see your PM or e-mail I sent to eurkazone)


Mike

FYI - here is a full size sketch of the door:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Projects/Entrance%20Door/IMG_0097.jpg


...I built "engineered" stiles for the door for stability reasons. I had to rip some long strips from the beam and rotate the strips 90 deg and glue them together to get the correct grain orientation:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Projects/Entrance%20Door/LVL%20Beam/IMG_3016.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Projects/Entrance%20Door/LVL%20Beam/IMG_3017.jpg

This is the stile with hardwood edges but before I applied face veneers:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/Projects/Entrance%20Door/LVL%20Beam/IMG_0130.jpg

These stiles took quite a bit of work but this is supposed to be fool proof way to construct an exterior door.

jim mumford
09-22-2009, 11:56 AM
Mike - I have no basis to qualify this on, I've never even remotely done what you're doing.....

I was wondering if the red zone could be accomplished by a 2-5/8" cut with your 10-1/4 makita with the board standing on edge and a long rail as the first cut you make. A second piece ( or more ) of the same stock to support the other side of the rail. Maybe a second pass to get the proper kerf width for the door seal..... Maybe the 10-1/4" blade would wander, I don't know diddly about it's stiffness.

Then maybe the shallower face cut on the rails again.

Again, apologies if I'm just getting in the way here....

-Jim

Dik Harrison
09-22-2009, 12:08 PM
Mike,

A bit like this might do the job for that slot.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v149-1202b/router_bits_-_ea

Mike Goetzke
09-22-2009, 05:44 PM
Mike,

A bit like this might do the job for that slot.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v149-1202b/router_bits_-_ea

Dik - that's close but the seal kerf needs to be 1/2" deep.

Mike

jperrott
09-25-2009, 11:14 AM
Mike,
I keep thinking that you might have to rip off the area to the left of your red groove indication and then add a strip back onto the area, leaving the necessary groove size for the seal. Mechanical fasteners?, glue and brads?
I know this may lead to the grain not matching perfectly, but seems like a way to get it done.
Let us know what you come up with!

Jason