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Cherrybark
11-30-2011, 10:15 AM
I need to make around 25 cuts of 1" square, .065 wall aluminum tubing. The plan is to use a circular saw with a carbide tipped blade (perhaps throwaway) rather than buy a $60 "metal cutting" blade that won't see further use. The other choice is to use a jig saw but I'm not certain the cuts will be as square enough and appearance matters.

The CS and blade will handle the cuts but clamping the square stock is an issue. Santa ordered me a Pro Cabinet Maker. Do I wait and use the EZ One to support the work? Do I make the cuts without the chip insert? Or, do I not dare think about cutting metal as the first project on my new EZ toy?

spicyguy2005
11-30-2011, 10:35 AM
Cherry Bark:

From my understanding, aluminum is a soft metal that you can easily cut with regular blade. I think you have 2 choices, either using regular blade setting in reverse direction or using special non-ferrous metal (aluminum/plastic) blade. In case you use the former one, it is recommended that you apply wax to the blade to prevent aluminum chips to stick to the blade. For the latter one, you will not need to wax because of the design of the blade.

You can read more in the post that I asked Tom Gensmer below:

http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?p=18529#post18529

Hope this help. Some other members may give you more information.

Dik Harrison
11-30-2011, 11:26 AM
Cherry,

Since the tube will be clamped and the track will be used, no need to reverse the blade. Doing so would just slow down the cut. I cut aluminum all the time, just like I was cutting wood, same blade, everything. As long as you don cut so much so fast that the blade gets hot, you should not have any aluminum sticking to the blade. I usually use a file or sander to give the cut a clean look.

Cherrybark
11-30-2011, 12:02 PM
Thanks for the quick replies. My real concern is doing damage to my brand new anti-chip edge. Sounds like it's not a problem, right?

spicyguy2005
11-30-2011, 01:52 PM
Thanks Dik. Glad to learn something new.

Dik Harrison
11-30-2011, 02:54 PM
No need for the Anti-chip edge. Use a stop to set the cut.

sean9c
11-30-2011, 03:07 PM
Just trap your square tube between 2 same thickness pieces of wood, so your track has something to set on and use a carbide blade, should work great. Try a squirt of WD-40 to keep the aluminum from sticking to the teeth or if you want to get fancy look for Relton A9 cutting fluid, it's the best for aluminum.

Cherrybark
11-30-2011, 10:29 PM
Thanks for the reassuring suggestions. Now I just have to wait for Santa Dino's little elves to deliver my Power Bench and other goodies.

Cherrybark
01-04-2012, 11:13 PM
Just to tie a bow around this thread.

I ended up using the default blade that came with my saw, 14 tooth I believe, knowing I would replace it with something better when working with wood. The one inch, aluminum tube was pulled up against the stops on my PBB and held there with a couple of spring clamps. Down came the bridge, without the anti-splintering strip, and the saw cut the tube without any problems. In fact, it was easier to go through than a 2x4. I had expected to do some filing to cleanup the cut but none was required. A little cleanup with a shop-vac and broom and all was well.

Thanks for the helpful comments.

Carl

RJS1948
01-05-2012, 01:55 AM
Great suggestions for cutting metal tubing... What about cutting EZ Rails, SME's and SSME's. I want to reduce the width of my EZ one and need to cut my SME's and SSME's. Any suggested techniques, blades, etc.

Thank you,

Rob

Dino
01-05-2012, 10:46 AM
Great suggestions for cutting metal tubing... What about cutting EZ Rails, SME's and SSME's. I want to reduce the width of my EZ one and need to cut my SME's and SSME's. Any suggested techniques, blades, etc.

Thank you,

Rob

for few cuts you can use any blade and go slower than cutting wood.
spray helps when you use 60-80 teeth blade.
with a 24 or even 4o teeth blade you don't have to use any spray...