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View Full Version : Help with circ saw blade deflection w/ EZ Smart


Finleyville
09-30-2009, 08:26 PM
Hello all!

I have purchased and used the EZ system with my circ saw and Freud finish blade for a while now. I mostly work with 3/4" MDF and have found a problem with my finished cuts. It seems that all my cut edges, looking from the top down, start flush with the anti chip edge then blow outward towards the bottom. It is as if the blade starts into the material perpendicular then starts to deflect outward from the anti chip edge. This forces none of my cuts to be square. Since I mainly build boxes, this obviously frustrates me to no end.

Does anyone have some ideas to solutions to my problem?

Thanks all for the help!

Dino
09-30-2009, 09:05 PM
Hello all!

I have purchased and used the EZ system with my circ saw and Freud finish blade for a while now. I mostly work with 3/4" MDF and have found a problem with my finished cuts. It seems that all my cut edges, looking from the top down, start flush with the anti chip edge then blow outward towards the bottom. It is as if the blade starts into the material perpendicular then starts to deflect outward from the anti chip edge. This forces none of my cuts to be square. Since I mainly build boxes, this obviously frustrates me to no end.

Does anyone have some ideas to solutions to my problem?

Thanks all for the help!

Welcome to our new forum.
The problem(s) maybe the AC-2 insert. ( not trimmed all the way)
If the AC-2 is riding in top of the white edge ( EAC-1)
that can create the unsquared cuts.

Another "problem" is the cutting depth.
The less depth the better. If you cut 3/4" thick MDF
usually you set the blade 1" deep. +- 1/8"
Try the same cuts on full depth.
That may help. Less deflection closer to the center of the blade.

Bad blade? Not if you use few blades already.
Arbor run-out?

Make the same cut on plywood and see if you still have the same problem.
If not, The MDF that you're using is to dense for the Diablo blade.
Try a 24 teeth Diablo blade instead of 40.

please, let us know if you can fix the problem with the above suggestions.
If not, Apply some down pressure ( not much) an see if that helps the situation. Then we have to look at the edges.
Or even better. Make one cut without the white antichip edges.

Burt
09-30-2009, 10:26 PM
Hello all!

I have purchased and used the EZ system with my circ saw and Freud finish blade for a while now. I mostly work with 3/4" MDF and have found a problem with my finished cuts. It seems that all my cut edges, looking from the top down, start flush with the anti chip edge then blow outward towards the bottom. It is as if the blade starts into the material perpendicular then starts to deflect outward from the anti chip edge. This forces none of my cuts to be square. Since I mainly build boxes, this obviously frustrates me to no end.

Does anyone have some ideas to solutions to my problem?

Thanks all for the help!

First, welcome to the EZ forum.

Second, I think that I have more questions than answers on this one.

How is the cut quality in plywood or solid wood?

How old is the blade?

Is the saw in good condition?

Are there any burn marks on the cut?

As I understand what you are saying, the top portion of the cut is square and the bottom portion of the cut flares out. If this is correct, you are talking blade flex.

Some of the Freud finish blades are extremely thin. MDF is extremely abrasive to tooling - blades and router bits dull very quickly. A dull cutter will heat up easily. When a blade gets hot it flexes.

My guess, based on what little info I have, is the blade is dull, getting hot and flexing. Try a sharp blade and see what happens.

Burt

Finleyville
09-30-2009, 11:15 PM
Mr. Burt,

Thank you for your prompt reply!

To answer your questions:

I wouldn't consider the blade too old. I have only done 4 projects with it. Two small cedar tables, two pine Adirondack chairs, a plywood garden gate and two MDF speaker projects. If I recall correctly, there appeared to have some signs of flex on all types with MDF being the worst.

I only had a few burn marks with the pine from bad cutting technique.

I thought Freud made pretty decent quality circ blades. Is there another type I should look into buying? If so, which one? Does it need to be a little thicker gauge because the saw is not directly sitting on the wood but elevated from the rail system?

Thanks for all the help again. I am about to start my first kitchen cabinet project with MDF and my cuts REALLY need to be square for that one.

Burt
09-30-2009, 11:38 PM
Mr. Burt,

Thank you for your prompt reply!

To answer your questions:

I wouldn't consider the blade too old. I have only done 4 projects with it. Two small cedar tables, two pine Adirondack chairs, a plywood garden gate and two MDF speaker projects. If I recall correctly, there appeared to have some signs of flex on all types with MDF being the worst.

I think trying another blade is your first step. I would expect a new blade to solve the problem.

I only had a few burn marks with the pine from bad cutting technique.

Both the cedar and pine tend to deposit sap on the blade and the MDF dulls anything.

I thought Freud made pretty decent quality circ blades. Is there another type I should look into buying? If so, which one? Does it need to be a little thicker gauge because the saw is not directly sitting on the wood but elevated from the rail system?

I don't think there is a problem with the quality of a Freud blade. In fact the freud diablo is probably the most popular blade for use with the EZ system. I use MDF as little as possible. If I was going to cut MDF, I'd have a blade specifically for it because of the way it dulls blades. MDF cuts easily but dulls equipment quickly. A dull blade heats up quickly. I think that a thicker blade would be best for MDF because when it get hot, it doesn't flex as much. I've had 10" thin kerf blades literally do dado style cuts.

Thanks for all the help again. I am about to start my first kitchen cabinet project with MDF and my cuts REALLY need to be square for that one.

I build a lot of kitchen cabinets but refuse to use MDF. The only good thing I can say about MDF is it is cheap.

Burt

Finleyville
10-01-2009, 04:27 PM
Well, I bought another Freud Diablo 40t blade. Plus, I decided to build my cabinet out of Baltic Birch ply rather than MDF. We shall see how my cuts come out. I will keep you appraised.

Michael Schwartz
10-01-2009, 04:49 PM
Make sure the piece being cut remains dead flat as you cut it and is not dropping off. A cupped cutting surface could cause what you describe to happen.

Make sure your saw is not flexing at all during the cut.

I have had this issue before, I think I am even using the same blade but I found it was caused by the top of the first power bench I built not being flat. I recently cut a solid 1-1/2" thick slab of MDF for a router table top with a freud diablo blade in my Hilti267 and the cut came out square.

I have never found this problem to be result of the Diablo blade and have had the same one on my hilti for quite some time. It sounds like it might have something to do with the surface your cutting on. This seems to have solved the problem for me.