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View Full Version : Setting up the PBB to rout rabbets and dadoes.


Dik Harrison
08-23-2009, 01:00 AM
The first seven pictures in this collection (http://picasaweb.google.com/DikHarrison/RouterTable#) show how I set up for a rabbet on my PBB.

The process is as follows: lock down the fence, and place the work piece against it. Set the SRK so that the router bit just "kisses" the edge of the work piece. Lock down the SRK. Set and lock down the perpendicular stop closest to the router. Raise the bit, slide the work piece away from the fence, and place a scrap piece of the material between the fence and the work piece. slide the work piece tight against the scrap material, holding the work piece in place (clamp if possible), remove the scrap material, and slide the fence against the work piece and lock it down. Loosen the SRK and slide the bit beyond the edge of the work piece. Lower the bit to the desired depth and make several passes until you have reached the stop that you set.


This video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Go6RdfL288) shows how to set up the SRK for an exact fit dado. The process is as follows: Lock down one of the perpendicular SRK stops. Then place a scrap of the shelf stock between it and SRK traveler, and set the other perpendicular stop. Next, move the traveler away from the second stop enough so you can put the bit you are going to be using between the stop and the traveler. You remove the bit and move the second stop up against the traveler and lock it down. If you are using a single cutter straight bit, you will have to substitute something for the bit that is the same width as the cut the bit makes. I would not rely on measurements, I would cut a groove with the bit to make sure that what you are using is a good fit on the groove.

Hope this helps.

Somebody asked in a PM: "Is there a reason why you start by the positioning the scrap stock on the left between a stop and the traveler and then reposition the traveller to the left and set the gap to allow for the cutter? Seems like you could do the same all on the left side of the traveler and save a step."

It can be done either way.

Basically, you just:
- lock one stop
- place the scrap stock between the stop and the traveler
- push the traveler against the scrap stock
- slide the other stop against the traveler and lock it down
- remove the scrap stock
- loosen the traveler
- place the bit between the traveler and either of the stops
- slide the traveler against the bit
- lock down the traveler
- remove the bit
- loosen the stop
- slide it against the traveler
- lock down the stop

coffeetester
06-14-2010, 05:08 PM
This seems to be my biggest weakness with the SRK. I do a good job with lining up edges but doing dadoes in the middle of a panel just seem to stump me. With the edge of a panel I can line up and clamp and cut exactly the edge I want to. The big issue with the router is were to line it up. I understand how to get the thickness correct but still need help getting the line right. Can someone explain to me how to get a perfect line with the SRK (I have the older one).

Burt
06-14-2010, 09:59 PM
I'm not sure what you mean about where to to line it up. If you can clarify your question, I'll see if I can help with an answer.


Burt

Dik Harrison
06-14-2010, 10:33 PM
Are you talking about getting the rail parallel to the cut or aligning the router bit with the cut line?

edf
12-12-2010, 02:11 PM
Dik,

How would you set up for grooving a smaller piece, say a groove in the side of a drawer for the bottom? For smaller pieces like this, I find that clamps to hold the workpiece down get in the way of the router movement. For big panels, like you show, it's not a problem. How do you approach this?

Another example- I needed to cut a 1/8" rabbet along the full length of a 2" wide piece of stock, about 30" long.

edf
12-12-2010, 02:21 PM
wups....I looked through your photos again and maybe this is the answer to my question:

http://picasaweb.google.com/DikHarrison/RouterTable#5207001673449168050

Don't you have to monkey with that a fair bit get it parallel to the rail each time?

Dik Harrison
12-12-2010, 02:55 PM
EDF,

There are a lot of ways to accomplish what you want, not all of which have been posted. As for doing rabbets and dadoes in narrow work pieces, I would use a router tunnel setup. Search the forum for "router tunnel" for some examples of how they have been set up.

The picture you cited was used mostly for doing slots, but could be used for rabbets and dadoes. I actually use the router bit to get the setup parallel to the rail. It is really quite EZ.

You might also Google "folding wedges" (also known as fox wedges). I have started toying with using them for holding things on the EZ-One.

Tempest
12-13-2010, 03:35 AM
wups....I looked through your photos again and maybe this is the answer to my question:

http://picasaweb.google.com/DikHarrison/RouterTable#5207001673449168050

Don't you have to monkey with that a fair bit get it parallel to the rail each time?
Any reason you couldn't butt the work piece up to the rail? You could then build a clamp like that one to hold the work. This would be self referencing for both parallel and bit offset.

Dik Harrison
12-13-2010, 08:50 AM
Tempest,

You can do that if your cut is going to be far enough from the track. Off the top of my head, I can't recall the minimum distance. However, you could place a fence piece that has parallel sides against the track and clamp the work piece against that, then you can make the cut anywhere on the work piece. I have done that many times.

bigjohn1
12-15-2010, 02:23 PM
wups....I looked through your photos again and maybe this is the answer to my question:

http://picasaweb.google.com/DikHarrison/RouterTable#5207001673449168050

Don't you have to monkey with that a fair bit get it parallel to the rail each time?
I like that uhmw jig
If you made them yourself what is
the measurements I have sean this stuff
some other place here.