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-   -   The DIY PBB. ( The money saver ) (http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=24)

Dino 08-21-2009 10:21 PM

The DIY PBB. ( The money saver )
 
5 Attachment(s)
Hi Guys.
This thread can be dedicated to low priced PBB's
Here is one fully functional and easy to build using your ez tracks.
This one was build in 30 minutes using old and used SME's.
The results? The cuts was the same as the latest Super Powerbench,
If you like to save money, this is the way to go.
You don't even need all the SME's shown on this frame.
You can screw the Bridge on one small SME, ( ask for free scraps with the B-300)

The design is very simple and similar to the original PBB.
1. Make a frame/tabletop using 3/4" ply and use 4 corner pieces to square the top.
Use (3-4) 1''x3"s or 1"x4"s as cross members to keep the top flat.
2. Use your own bolts washers and nuts. If you don't have the right hardware, ask for free nuts and bolts.
Don't be afraid to ask for small stuff that you may lose hours on the hardware store.
3. Use the squaring stops to align the top SME to the frame.
4 and 5. Good to have 4 SME's perpendicular to the bridge rail. 48" long.
If you need additional lengths, you can always buy low priced small pieces or we may have some scrap that you can use.
Use any screws to attach the top SME's. In this one I use pan-head type 3/4" long.

Dino 08-21-2009 10:43 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Best place for the bridge?
I like to set the bridge 8" from the edge of the PBB.
This way we can clamp the wood at the edge and use the Smart router kit for M@T and other routing work.
Attaching the bridge is very easy.
It takes less than 5 minutes after you do few bridges.:rolleyes:
First time should take about 10-15 minutes.

Dino 08-21-2009 10:54 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Here is another hint and easy way to build a sliding modules top.
Why we need this feature?
For better material support.
The top now is extendable and stays flat.

The Empire square is the best that I use so far.
We tested on the CNC and the accuracy was close to perfect.
Place to buy it? Home Depot.

After all the work the only thing that matters is the Bridge rail to be squared to the SME with the squaring stops.
The table can be off square but the cut is always perfect because:

The wood stays put ( dead) and the tool rides on the track.
No room for mistakes and no room for accidents.

Burt 08-22-2009 12:00 AM

Quote Dino: "After all the work the only thing that matters is the Bridge rail to be squared to the SME with the squaring stops."

Let me get on a soap box for a minute. The quote above from Dino is the most important thing. As long as the fence (squaring stops) are square to the rail you get perfect cuts. It is best to have a square bench but if you make a mistake make sure the fence is square to the rail and you will get perfect cuts.


Dino, this is a nice simple design. I have used similiar designs and they work great.


To those building power benches, don't feel like you have to have all the bell and whistles. More simple benches perform well. In the shop I use all the bells and whistles but for job site tools, I like to keep them lighter and easier to load and unload,


Burt

mkremer 11-18-2009 10:10 AM

Sliding plywood modules .... how to mount
 
I'm intrigued with Dino's method that uses special hardware pieces that are screwed to the sides of the plywood panels allowing the panels to easily slip into the sme. Where do you buy such things? Dino, can I order them through you?

Thanks

fmbell 11-18-2009 11:03 PM

mkremer

They are in envelope " C "

Frank

mkremer 11-19-2009 07:21 AM

If I am a true DIY making the DIY PBB and don't have envelop "C", where can I get the hardware?

Thanks

Mike

Burt 11-19-2009 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkremer (Post 1474)
If I am a true DIY making the DIY PBB and don't have envelop "C", where can I get the hardware?

Thanks

Mike

Mike,

Let me give you 3 options:

1. Eurekazone has the items you are looking for

2. The SME was actually made for the ends of the plywood to be rabbitted a little on each side before they were inserted into the sides of the SME. If it isn't true 3/4" PW, in order to get the top to set level, the bottom rabbit will have to be lighter.

3. Trim something else and attach it to the edges of the plywood. I have used plastic. A DIY guy might even use hardwood.


Burt

Dino 11-19-2009 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkremer (Post 1444)
I'm intrigued with Dino's method that uses special hardware pieces that are screwed to the sides of the plywood panels allowing the panels to easily slip into the sme. Where do you buy such things? Dino, can I order them through you?

Thanks

got money?:D





Keep your money and send us an email where to ship the T-knots
for the sliding modules. you need 4 for each module.
best to ask for them with an order to save
the shipping cost ($7.50 via UPS)
thanks.

mkremer 11-20-2009 09:39 AM

Dino,

You're the best!

Thanks,

Mike


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