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-   -   32mm drilling (http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=4445)

sawdust57 06-12-2014 05:28 PM

32mm drilling
 
been away for a while. wondering if EZ has come up with a 32mm boring track and jig yet? :)

Burt 06-12-2014 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawdust57 (Post 35993)
been away for a while. wondering if EZ has come up with a 32mm boring track and jig yet? :)

Welcome back. - Nothing new in line drilling. Things are moving rather slowly.


Burt

sawdust57 06-12-2014 08:28 PM

Yeah, that's what happens when you're to close to the beach! :) I tried the CNC router way of doing things. couldn't justify the payment. tried a 32mm construction line boring machine and don't like it. prefer a more hands on way of doing things. I was hoping Dino's crew would have this 32mm boring thing worked out by now. guess i'll have to get the lr32 system! argh!

Lex 06-13-2014 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawdust57 (Post 35997)
Yeah, that's what happens when you're to close to the beach! :) I tried the CNC router way of doing things. couldn't justify the payment. tried a 32mm construction line boring machine and don't like it. prefer a more hands on way of doing things. I was hoping Dino's crew would have this 32mm boring thing worked out by now. guess i'll have to get the lr32 system! argh!

I was going to suggest Woodhaven's #786 Kurka Jig. It works with a router so you get clean holes, and comes with four templates so you can set it up for right & left side base, right & left side uppers. It does all the system holes, but it's not intended for construction holes. That suits me since I'll use biscuits, pocket holes, dowels or any combination for the consctruction. It doesn't look like they carry that anymore, but they have a #784 Metric Shelf Pin Jig which is scaled-down from the Kurka. Too bad. I have the Kurka and one of the things that I really like about it is I can use it for setting the spacing for drawer slides in the base cabinets. Maybe you can find a used one somewhere (but I ain't parting with mine!) Like the Kurka, their 784 lets you choose between using a router with a 5mm bit or a drill for cutting the holes. Lee Valley has a Veritas 32mm system too, but unfortunately it only supports using a drill, not a router.

sawdust57 06-15-2014 08:03 AM

tks for the info. might be just what i'am looking for.:)

Goblu 06-15-2014 02:28 PM

A few people have made their own. Here's one that Rick made. I plan to make one based on his design, but after I get a few other things done. Including just making holes in a track. You can see it on this thread. I'm leery of making holes in a track if I want to use it for anything else, though. I like the ones with a reference pin rather than the kind you drill/route right thru the jig itself. It seems like a lot of lining up with that design. With Ricks design you could change hole spacing by making a new reference pin template and make them interchangeable.

http://tracksawforum.com/showthread....t=poor+man%27s

tomp913 01-31-2015 06:37 PM

Was on another forum and saw an ingenious method of boring holes on 32mm centers using a track and plunge router. While the gentleman was using a Makita track and home-made base, I knew that there had to be someone on this forum who would immediately see the possibilities of modifying the concept to use the SSRK and EZ track - a template that fits into the edge groove on the track and a spring-loaded indexing pin in a carrier bolted to the SSRK base are the first ideas that come to mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDs7...yt-cl=85114404

Tom

sean9c 01-31-2015 11:29 PM

Tricky part is getting a guide bar with exact 32mm hole spacing to start with.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomp913 (Post 36847)
Was on another forum and saw an ingenious method of boring holes on 32mm centers using a track and plunge router. While the gentleman was using a Makita track and home-made base, I knew that there had to be someone on this forum who would immediately see the possibilities of modifying the concept to use the SSRK and EZ track - a template that fits into the edge groove on the track and a spring-loaded indexing pin in a carrier bolted to the SSRK base are the first ideas that come to mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDs7...yt-cl=85114404

Tom


tomp913 02-01-2015 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sean9c (Post 36849)
Tricky part is getting a guide bar with exact 32mm hole spacing to start with.

There are several sources for (relatively) inexpensive 32mm drilling jigs - Rockler, Woodcraft and Kreg all have products that would work. At it's most simple, you could make a plywood strip as shown in the video, using one of these jigs. Even the Kreg, which has only 6 holes could be used to make a longer strip by locating the pin provided in the last hole, moving the jig up and drilling an additional 5 holes - repeating as needed. It's also possible to do the same thing with the fixture attached to the track; drill holes for the length of the fixture, move the indexing strip along the track (think of Rick's method of attaching his brackets to the track) and align using the index pin in the SSRK base combined with the router bit - with the router turned off - in the last hole that had been drilled. 1/2" Baltic plywood is probably adequate for the fixture as there should be minimal wear from the indexing pin.

Tom

sean9c 02-01-2015 01:39 PM

Sounds like you've got it figured out and I'm sure it'd work. I was probably overthinking it with something more durable like aluminum guide bar and tapered pin engagement.
Then I got thinking. The hole pin jig I bought at Rockler works just fine. I'm not sure having one where'd I use my router and SSRK would work any better.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomp913 (Post 36850)
There are several sources for (relatively) inexpensive 32mm drilling jigs - Rockler, Woodcraft and Kreg all have products that would work. At it's most simple, you could make a plywood strip as shown in the video, using one of these jigs. Even the Kreg, which has only 6 holes could be used to make a longer strip by locating the pin provided in the last hole, moving the jig up and drilling an additional 5 holes - repeating as needed. It's also possible to do the same thing with the fixture attached to the track; drill holes for the length of the fixture, move the indexing strip along the track (think of Rick's method of attaching his brackets to the track) and align using the index pin in the SSRK base combined with the router bit - with the router turned off - in the last hole that had been drilled. 1/2" Baltic plywood is probably adequate for the fixture as there should be minimal wear from the indexing pin.

Tom



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