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-   -   Got my stuff (http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=4786)

Absinthe 12-12-2016 11:39 PM

Got my stuff
 
I got the 54 track system, the cabinet maker and UEG.

I started setting it up and ran into some serious grief. I was trying to make it all work with my Skil 5350. After about 2 hours I couldn't get the saw to run the track for more than about 18-24" It kept binding, and when it did cut it seemed to twist and rise some degree off the track. But that was the best I could tell with my eye.

I decided that the weak link in the system must be the well used almost 30 year old saw. So I went to Lowes and picked up a Bosch CS-10. I liked up a new base on it and taped the living crap out of it and put as many screws in it as I could. It seems that the blade side of the base has a hard time getting any screws in place because the saw base plates tend to run out on that side, but I got one screw in that side in the center.

So with the saw on the base, and the track clamped to a test piece I was able to cut the full length of the test piece. I decided to quit while I felt ahead and come in the house. Tomorrow, I will try to square a panel with the cabinet maker. Hopefully that will be a better experience, I feel bad that I committed a base to this failure of a saw. Is there anyway to reclaim that base and actually attach it to a different saw since the tabs are already removed?

sean9c 12-13-2016 02:29 AM

If your saw blade is binding when on the track the blade is likely not parallel the slot in the EZ Base.
You can reuse a Base that has had the tabs broken of by measuring from the blade to the slot to make sure they're parallel

Quote:

Originally Posted by Absinthe (Post 38399)
I got the 54 track system, the cabinet maker and UEG.

I started setting it up and ran into some serious grief. I was trying to make it all work with my Skil 5350. After about 2 hours I couldn't get the saw to run the track for more than about 18-24" It kept binding, and when it did cut it seemed to twist and rise some degree off the track. But that was the best I could tell with my eye.

I decided that the weak link in the system must be the well used almost 30 year old saw. So I went to Lowes and picked up a Bosch CS-10. I liked up a new base on it and taped the living crap out of it and put as many screws in it as I could. It seems that the blade side of the base has a hard time getting any screws in place because the saw base plates tend to run out on that side, but I got one screw in that side in the center.

So with the saw on the base, and the track clamped to a test piece I was able to cut the full length of the test piece. I decided to quit while I felt ahead and come in the house. Tomorrow, I will try to square a panel with the cabinet maker. Hopefully that will be a better experience, I feel bad that I committed a base to this failure of a saw. Is there anyway to reclaim that base and actually attach it to a different saw since the tabs are already removed?


Absinthe 12-13-2016 08:36 AM

sean,

I measured all different ways to test for square and parallel. The edge of the blade fell at the same point on my speed-square when I put it against the grooves on the bottom of the base. The blade also measured square to the base. The other indication is that the cut edge itself did not turn out square as if the base was slightly tilted, but not consistently so throughout the cut as if that had been the case.

The only 2 things I can discern being "off" are:
1. There was no place to run a screw in the base to the outside of the blade. The base was so wide that the holes land outside of the saw's baseplate. I was able to put one forward of the blade but that didn't seem to be enough. I think the saw was able to move relative to the base.
2. The saw arbor seems to have significant in-out play maybe 18". This motivated me to go buy a new saw, I guess 20+ years on a cheap saw, used mostly for demolition and rough work might wear out some of the guts.

Examining how the base works, I guess I could measure a cut a block of wood that would take the place of the spacers as a reusable solution when moving to a new saw.

I kind of chewed up the anti-chip strip, but for now it will remain in place as-is. I am not sure the best technique for trimming it, since that backwards cutting thing seemed to chew this one up pretty bad. However, that was with the "bad" saw in place. I may try cutting the other one with the good saw, or simply order some more of them at some point.

kenk 12-13-2016 10:02 AM

Don't forget ... any time you get a new saw you'll want to replace the Smart Base anti-chip insert and the guide rail anti-chip edge since they are custom cut for each saw.

I hope the new saw works for you!!!! If you're still having troubles please do call Eurekazone. They want you to be happy.

Ken

bumpnstump 12-13-2016 10:50 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Absinthe (Post 38403)
sean,

I measured all different ways to test for square and parallel. The edge of the blade fell at the same point on my speed-square when I put it against the grooves on the bottom of the base. The blade also measured square to the base. The other indication is that the cut edge itself did not turn out square as if the base was slightly tilted, but not consistently so throughout the cut as if that had been the case.

The only 2 things I can discern being "off" are:
1. There was no place to run a screw in the base to the outside of the blade. The base was so wide that the holes land outside of the saw's baseplate. I was able to put one forward of the blade but that didn't seem to be enough. I think the saw was able to move relative to the base.
2. The saw arbor seems to have significant in-out play maybe 18". This motivated me to go buy a new saw, I guess 20+ years on a cheap saw, used mostly for demolition and rough work might wear out some of the guts.

Examining how the base works, I guess I could measure a cut a block of wood that would take the place of the spacers as a reusable solution when moving to a new saw.

I kind of chewed up the anti-chip strip, but for now it will remain in place as-is. I am not sure the best technique for trimming it, since that backwards cutting thing seemed to chew this one up pretty bad. However, that was with the "bad" saw in place. I may try cutting the other one with the good saw, or simply order some more of them at some point.

Pic one shows a 'variation-on-a-theme' jig to set the base parallel to the saw blade (my saw base is an earlier version, black one- same principle as the new saw base). Piece of scrap lumber w/a 1/4"-thick ply/mdf/whatever x width-of-saw-base groove tacked to the scrap lumber; w/a screw in the edge. Adjust the screw to barely touch one saw tooth at the desired distance from the groove (3" from near edge of groove to near edge of saw tooth is, I believe, what the EZ factory recommends); rotate that tooth and the jig to the other end of the base to just barely touch the screw. Keep tweaking till it's right.

Pic two shows saw and saw base w/new anti-chip insert, sitting on a piece of track, w/a piece of 220 sandpaper under the anti-chip insert. Often, a new anti-chip insert will cause the saw base to tilt upwards. Sanding it down ever so lightly usually alleviates the issue. In rare occasions, some folks received a slightly bowed saw base, or, bowed it when installing it (usually due to the actual base on the saw being bowed to begin with).

YMMV
Rick

Absinthe 12-13-2016 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenk (Post 38405)
Don't forget ... any time you get a new saw you'll want to replace the Smart Base anti-chip insert and the guide rail anti-chip edge since they are custom cut for each saw.

I hope the new saw works for you!!!! If you're still having troubles please do call Eurekazone. They want you to be happy.

Ken

FWIW, I am just using the old anti-chip strip and insert since they are currently "close enough" and I will have to order some more strips soon enough. I am not sure the process I used, or the saw being so messed up caused the reverse cutting of the strip to chew it up and I want to be 100% sure on my technique before I start tossing $10 one after the other cutting and re-cutting the strips. As for the insert, I am not quite sure I understand why it should have any difference in size from one application to the other. but when I cut the new one up I will check it perhaps for level and apply sand paper if necessary. That seems a little tweaky though.

Absinthe 12-13-2016 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bumpnstump (Post 38406)
Pic one shows a 'variation-on-a-theme' jig to set the base parallel to the saw blade (my saw base is an earlier version, black one- same principle as the new saw base). Piece of scrap lumber w/a 1/4"-thick ply/mdf/whatever x width-of-saw-base groove tacked to the scrap lumber; w/a screw in the edge. Adjust the screw to barely touch one saw tooth at the desired distance from the groove (3" from near edge of groove to near edge of saw tooth is, I believe, what the EZ factory recommends); rotate that tooth and the jig to the other end of the base to just barely touch the screw. Keep tweaking till it's right.

Pic two shows saw and saw base w/new anti-chip insert, sitting on a piece of track, w/a piece of 220 sandpaper under the anti-chip insert. Often, a new anti-chip insert will cause the saw base to tilt upwards. Sanding it down ever so lightly usually alleviates the issue. In rare occasions, some folks received a slightly bowed saw base, or, bowed it when installing it (usually due to the actual base on the saw being bowed to begin with).

YMMV
Rick

I was thinking of something similar to pic1, but with a wider board, and running the saw through it so that on that makeshift rail the wood is right at the saw as it cuts. But I will look more closely at your design. For now, I am not sure it matters much, I don't really have another saw that I want to put the base on yet. FWIW, I think I could just measure with my speed square so the blade hits right at 3-1/8 (or wherever it is hitting now) and press the tape in place.

I am not sure I see what is happening with the insert, and why it should have to be adjusted, but when I cut the other one I will use a level to be sure we are sitting flat when on the track.

Absinthe 12-13-2016 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenk (Post 38405)
I hope the new saw works for you!!!! If you're still having troubles please do call Eurekazone. They want you to be happy.

Ken

This I would have through to be the case. But as of yet there is no reply to my voice-mail tech support message. :( Who knows, they might just be busy. I can understand them not answering in the evening. Perhaps they will call me some time today. Since I won't get back to it at least until tonight, I can be patient. It seems somewhat better with the new saw, so maybe that is the whole problem.

Absinthe 12-13-2016 02:51 PM

Got my call-back this afternoon. Good customer support, thanks!

WatchurFingers 12-13-2016 04:00 PM

Is the runout in the arbor, or in the blade? Using saws for demoltion, has tended to cause some warped blades and damaged teeth, for me. I tend to use a different blade for construction, and I tend to use an older worm saw for deconstruction.


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