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-   -   taking the place of miter/chop saw (http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=4845)

Absinthe 06-01-2017 10:46 PM

taking the place of miter/chop saw
 
As I am getting more comfortable I find myself reaching for the EZ system instead of the table saw.

I would like to do the same for the miter/chop saw. What suggestions, recommendation and configurations would help me configure differently for this? I am assuming I would only need a relatively short piece of track to do it. Would I still use the same blade or necessarily want to swap in a cross cutting blade or something else?

Tracedfar 06-02-2017 02:00 AM

Many here have had the same thought. Some have found a solution for their particular need or a particular task but I'm not aware of a single approach that fits the entire bill.

Of course, it needs to be as fast, easy, accurate, and consistent as the method it replaces.

The hat trick would be an EZ method to cut crown moulding as quickly and easily as on a chop saw using a crown master jig (worth every penny).

kenk 06-02-2017 10:45 AM

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I'm a big fan of the EZ tools, but I honestly don't plant to get rid of my sliding miter saw. Getting rid of my radial arm saw and table saw - yes, but not the sliding miter saw.

I have the original EZ Square, which only provides a 90 degree cut -- versus the current miter square. Its fine for me now.

The EZ Square and EZ Miter Square are good for simple miter cuts - if you have an accurate way of setting the angle of the EZ Miter Square, but at least in my view EZ has never really excelled with bevel cuts since it requires removing the Anti Chip Edge and it kind of chews up the EZ One rails.

As I look at it, the sliding miter saw pretty much uses the dead wood concept (wood is fixed in place while the saw moves), but I do wish the designers provided better wood clamping options.

Even though my no-so-favorite Craftsman sliding miter saw with laser guide (gift from the wife - the intent was wonderful) came with a clamp (of sorts) I still have to hold the material in place with my left hand, and I simply don't like that.

Absinthe 06-02-2017 11:28 AM

FWIW, I probably use my CSM more like someone would a radial arm saw. So being able to crosscut a bunch of rails and stiles or miter frames are more what I am thinking of doing. I am no fan of Crown Molding... :)

The bevel cut is a problem for sure. The green people figured out how to do it with the saw itself. I think EZ would have to modify the base so that when reorienting to a bevel angle the base would be able to be slid over. But that might require a thicker base to start with.

What I am thinking I need is a second short track, specifically setup for cross cutting door components. So maybe I need a replacement for the crosscut sled on the table saw :)
But with some good way to hold it as well as the work.

sean9c 06-02-2017 01:49 PM

At least for me EZ is not replacing my mitersaw. Miter saw is fast and easy, you can make adjustments to a fraction of a degree, none of which EZ can do.
Lack of bevel cut ability with EZ is the reason I still have a TS, again TS has quick and accurate adjustments to a degree, EZ has nothing.

Tracedfar 06-02-2017 09:46 PM

Kenk, good observation about the SCMS already employing the dead wood concept but a track saw is still probably safer. I have a Rigid and the clamp that came with it is the best I've used.

Absinthe, I didn't like crown either until I got a crown master and started cutting it right side up. Now, it's nearly as easy as base board.

Sean9c, i totally agree. Bevel adjustment and long narrow rips are why I still need a TS and SCMS.

Absinthe 06-03-2017 12:25 AM

Okay so I just watched a video of Di,o,cutti,g some phe,olic angle. But it looks like the key is the bridge. I am not sure I want to spend that my I on the bridge. I wonder how hard it would be to make a similar solution?

kenk 06-03-2017 12:12 PM

I have an EZ One ... with the bridge you speak of. While clearly I think its worth the cost, I don't think it provides any real advantage to cutting miters or bevels versus using a guide rail other than convenience and accurate repeated cuts.

Setting up miter cuts requires some kind of protractor guide or linear measurements using a knowledge of geometry (sine, cosine, ...). I've posted here before looking for a good protractor-like solution and am still noodling it. I ended up purchasing a General Tools 828 Digital Sliding T-Bevel, but I still have been known to use simple linear measurements using geometretic calculations.

As I said in this thread above, I don't like the EZ solution (if there is one) for bevel cuts. So far I haven't need to do any bevel cuts with the EZ One or my EZ guide rails - only with the sliding compound miter saw. I think I'd be willing to use the EZ One to cut a basic 45 degree angle, but I really doubt I'd rip up the guide rails with cutting many other angles. If you look at pics and videos of EZ Ones, you'll may notice the 45 degree cuts in the guide rails off to the left of the main cut kerf. I'd probably follow that practice. If I had to do other bevel angles I think I'd just use my rail guides (with ACE removed).

As far as a home-made bridge ... given what people do here I have no doubt that it's doable. Just like my purchase of the EZ One, I think buying the bridge and a few lengths of sliding module extrusion (SME) for attaching the bridge ends to a table (for easy right angle adjustment) are a good way to go; although as I saw it, the EZ One has the advantage of providing lots of clamping flexibility - that is why I went that direction.

Ken K.

Burt 06-03-2017 04:26 PM

The best solution I have found for miter cuts with EZ is to replace the miter bar on a miter gauge with a piece of EZ connector and attach a longer guide to the miter gauge. This method yields very accurate miters. It is great for flat work but wouldn't work for crown molding.

Bevels with the EZ rails are easy. Since most of the cuts are along the grain of the wood, the insert may be removed. If you leave the insert in it will no longer be usable for normal cuts.


Burt

Absinthe 06-03-2017 07:18 PM

There are a few things that are coming to mind. I do want to pick up the track to place the next piece to cut. Maybe I don't need the bridge per-se but a way to lift the track high enough to manipulate the wood underneath. I also like the concept that FT uses cutting towards the squaring stop and just hinges up. So maybe I can come up with something that does something along those lines.


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