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Absinthe 12-06-2016 09:30 AM

Well I pulled the trigger, now what?
So I ordered a 54" system, the UEG, and the cabinet maker. It should be here next week.

Contrary to the common advice I did not buy the EZ-1 or Journeyman but who knows maybe in a couple years.

However, short of those items, what is the quickest and least cost alternative for a work surface? I have heard suggestions of getting some 2" foam insulation and I am leaning towards that. Any other suggestions?

As for the UEG, does one normally use this horizontal or vertical?

I am got a new blade (lots of teeth) for my Skil 5350 and will use that to get started because I have it already. Are there any tricks for dust collection? How much trouble is it to upgrade a saw or switch between different saws? Or does one just spend the $50 and buy a new base every time for each saw?

kenk 12-06-2016 01:14 PM

I think your purchase is a good selection.

The foam should do you well so long as you can put it at a height that is comfortable for you. For example, if I had to cut on the floor it would kill my old knees and back, but on a table I would be fine. Of course the table would have to be large enough to fully (mostly) support the material to be cut.

I will be using the UEG flat because I don't want the downward force of the upper piece to have any chance of pinching the blade.

Though I have not experience use of a many toothed blade (plywood blade), on this forum Dino has assured us that your cuts are plenty clean using the standard construction grade blades. I've been happy with mine so far, I can tell you from my perspective.

Absinthe 12-06-2016 02:13 PM

Thanks kenk,
I have a bunch of tables that I made from doug-fir 2x4s at about 34.5" tall. They have been made to mount a double piece of MDF + single masonite as a sacrificial work surface. I was thinking of putting the insulation on top of one of these, either with the described top, or perhaps with just the masonite or a piece of 6mm plywood to keep it from bowing.

I have no intention at present to break down 4x8 sheets, mostly because I can't get a 4x8 sheet home in my Prius :) But I would think if I have them cut to 30-1/2" I can square them off and make them into 768mm x whatever I need for standard cabinets.

So I am thinking I would have 30+ x 48" that I would use the UEG to make them standard depth, and the track to make them 768mm or whatever. Not sure if I will be able to trim the whole 48" of it with the 54" system with the cabinet maker, but we shall see. (Not sure how much I lose with the cabinet maker.)

I thought the downward pressure of a vertical cut with the UEG would compensate for my imagined concern of potentially "pulling away" or "tilting" the cut. But again that is just my brain talking to me, not any actual experience.

WatchurFingers 12-06-2016 03:31 PM

I have been looking through old posts, trying to relocate an image I saw in a post, but can't find the original post.
Let me start with the UEG question, as what you asked, somewhat seems to have changed, based on your actual needs.
Vertical or horizontal, yes. Either, depending on what your cutting and the size of your work:
You will end up with two parallel sides. Vertical might work fine for 4x8 sheets, lying against some 2x's for rigidity, but I doubt it would work well for solid lumber, 1x's. (rail and stile parts for the cabinets)
Next, saw base:
Reusable, removable. Don't strip the screws, and you will probably have to make a spacer, to replace the base parts your removing. (or keep it as is and get a second/larger saw, for thicker wood)

Quickest and least costly solution, well what do you have around? There are old posts about a no longer available, inexpensive Smart Table Kit product, that looked good. It seems to be replaced by a twice the price, with no real extra benefit price, multiform table kit (Personal opinion, and only see it in one form, though). So other options I found in other posts:
Think it is from here:
Found something similar on Instructables:

Found this link in this post:
THIS was the table that I saw a picture of, and couldn't find the post again. The drawing has benefits of showing why two members are closer (leg mounting), as well as having different size holes, for different size projects. The clamps with your system, would fit between spots, and one member recommended putting a piece of luan across the top for a work surface. He also had it leaning or hanging from a door when in storage mode. (anyone remember the post/thread?)

In going through old posts, I saw some that made me question why the change from the plastic of the old table, as well as why develop the Ebay listed Multiform table, when it loses the benefits, discussed here?:

coryrc 12-06-2016 03:33 PM

I've been researching similar things myself.!/

There are a lot of suggestions there.

Absinthe 12-06-2016 07:38 PM

Wow, WatchurFingers that is an awful lot of information. I will read through it all and watch the videos.

I see lots of voids in the table solutions, do they serve a purpose, or would a sacrificial sheet of mdf suffice?

Tracedfar 12-07-2016 02:09 AM

Just my two cents...

I think foam board across a couple of sawhorses is the quickest, most practical and cost effective solution.That's been my portable setup from the beginning. After you acclimate to the Deadwood concept, you will probably discover something you like better. Most of us do. For the shop, I built my own Power Bridge Bench (PBB) and love it. Aside from the EZ hardware, I used 8 8' 2x4 and one 4x8 3/4" plywood, glued and screwed for about $80.

I'd plan on getting new inserts for your base when you change a blade. I've tried several blades and settled on a 36 tooth full kerf ATB. Fancier blades are a waste since the system already has excellent zero clearance built into it. And a full kerf keeps deflection at a minimum. In fact, too many teeth will probably slow you down without any appreciable improvement in cut quality.

My UEG gets so much use I've decided I want a dedicated saw for it. It is absolutely the easiest way for me to break down 4x8 plywood for cabinet carcasses and keep waste at a minimum. I always prefer to lay material flat letting gravity help keep the saw against the material and keeping the blade pointed down and away from anyone or anything.

Two things you may want to add soon: more clamps - you can never have too many; and the SSRK - on your guide rail it's very good for dadoes and grooves. Although, for lots of parallel grooves in a large single piece my CRB7 is the best I've used. (It also great for circles)

Welcome to the Deadwood gang and good luck!

Absinthe 12-07-2016 08:13 AM

Thank Tracedfa,

I am not sure exactly what it would take to build one's own PBB, but I assume it involves more EZ hardware.

Up to now I hadn't even considered the router, especially for dadoes and such. AAMOF, the router is my least favorite tool. I am convinced that every major problem I have encountered with a project came because I tried to use a router for one thing or another. I even have a router table that (wait for it), I still haven't even mounted a router in yet.

I am not sure what the CRB7 is? Though at some point I need to get a handle on using a router. It is too important and powerful of a tool to keep avoiding. :)

Of course, I am trying to piece my way into this system so tossing out another $200 right now for the SSRK is something that may just have to wait. :)

kenk 12-07-2016 10:19 AM


Originally Posted by Tracedfar (Post 38351)
Although, for lots of parallel grooves in a large single piece my CRB7 is the best I've used.

I've been hoping that Eurekazone will come out with a non circular saw EZ Smart Base that would allow mounting of routers and other tools. This would let use use routers and more with the UEG.

Absinthe 12-07-2016 10:37 AM


Originally Posted by kenk (Post 38354)
I've been hoping that Eurekazone will come out with a non circular saw EZ Smart Base that would allow mounting of routers and other tools. This would let use use routers and more with the UEG.

Isn't that what the SSRK was supposed to do?

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