Thread: Got my stuff
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Old 12-13-2016, 11:52 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpnstump View Post
Pic one shows a 'variation-on-a-theme' jig to set the base parallel to the saw blade (my saw base is an earlier version, black one- same principle as the new saw base). Piece of scrap lumber w/a 1/4"-thick ply/mdf/whatever x width-of-saw-base groove tacked to the scrap lumber; w/a screw in the edge. Adjust the screw to barely touch one saw tooth at the desired distance from the groove (3" from near edge of groove to near edge of saw tooth is, I believe, what the EZ factory recommends); rotate that tooth and the jig to the other end of the base to just barely touch the screw. Keep tweaking till it's right.

Pic two shows saw and saw base w/new anti-chip insert, sitting on a piece of track, w/a piece of 220 sandpaper under the anti-chip insert. Often, a new anti-chip insert will cause the saw base to tilt upwards. Sanding it down ever so lightly usually alleviates the issue. In rare occasions, some folks received a slightly bowed saw base, or, bowed it when installing it (usually due to the actual base on the saw being bowed to begin with).

YMMV
Rick
I was thinking of something similar to pic1, but with a wider board, and running the saw through it so that on that makeshift rail the wood is right at the saw as it cuts. But I will look more closely at your design. For now, I am not sure it matters much, I don't really have another saw that I want to put the base on yet. FWIW, I think I could just measure with my speed square so the blade hits right at 3-1/8 (or wherever it is hitting now) and press the tape in place.

I am not sure I see what is happening with the insert, and why it should have to be adjusted, but when I cut the other one I will use a level to be sure we are sitting flat when on the track.
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