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Old 05-02-2014, 04:37 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 252
Default Gauge and Stop for Cabinet Maker

Here are some more photos showing more details of the Stop and Gauge that I made for my modified Cabinet Maker.

The stop is probably overkill but I made it from bits and pieces that I had lying around. I wanted there to be no clearance in the attachment of the nylon "bumper" to the plate so drilled and tapped the center of the nylon rod and drilled the hole for the bolt undersize and hand reamed it until the body of the bolt was a light push fit in the hole - this way the position of the stop can't change even if it's bumped against the edge of the plywood panel.

The gauge is made to be adjustable so I used a small piece of t-track and made up an aluminum block that slides inside the track - this allows me to loosen the two screws and move the cursor as needed to line up with the kerf. At some point, I'm going to try to make a pad to mount to the underside of the saw base as some others have done and maybe do away with the ACE so this gauge will be needed to set the track relative to the cut line. I've used another brand of track for several years - bought based on a demonstration at the Woodworking Show - but switched over to EZ because of the lack of upgrades. As all I had was the track, my standard procedure was to square one end of the sheet and then mark both edges at the required length from the square end using a 36" steel scale with a moveable stop - this gave me identical layout marks on both sides of the sheet. I would then align the track with the pencil lines. I'm still doing this, except only marking the near edge of the sheet. The gauge allows me to move the CM until the cursor line is over the pencil mark and then set the stop against the edge of the plywood.

Next on my list is figuring out how to add a scale to the assembly, and then adding a cursor to the stop block. The problem is that the connection between the track and square is "loose" and may not give repeatability when tightening down the knobs. I have an idea that the fixed (non-slotted) hole on the square could be reamed out for a tight fit on a shoulder bolt to replace the all-thread and knob - this would eliminate any change in location of the track relative to the end of the square and make using a scale on the top of the square possible. The threaded end of the shoulder bolt would still be screwed into the section of connector but not Loctited; tightening the shoulder bolt would pull the section of connector tight in the track slot.

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