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  #1  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:20 PM
deeraeya deeraeya is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 15
Default Taking sawbase off/on the UEG arms?

Ok, I'm sure that this is obvious to most people, but for some reason I was having a very hard time taking the sawbase on and off the UEG frame.

I was loosening the black screw-tops then sliding the sawbase off the end, leaving the aluminum inserts attached to the sawbase. Terrible idea, since then the fin etc can't slide out without removing them. Worse, it's very difficult and frustrating to get the sawbase back on the UEG track that way.

What I should have been doing is removing the black screw-tops and washers entirely then lifting the sawbase off the track, leaving the aluminum inserts in the track and securing them with the washers and screw-tops. Much simpler.

Honestly, I've watched all the videos I could find on the UEG and never seen anyone lift the sawbase off or put it on. A full video of putting the UEG together would include that, which would be great. Perhaps I missed one?

UPDATE: Tried again this morning; it's definitely easier, but it's still something of a struggle to get the threads lined up with the holes on the sawbase, mostly because the aluminum inserts slide around a little and if you get the sawbase on one first the angle means that the thread catches a little, so it's hard to lower the sawbase slowly and evenly enough. I tried flipping the whole thing over and lowering the UEG arms onto the sawbase, a little easier but still fliddly.

How do others do this? Am I still missing something obvious? I realize that there are two inserts to accommodate different holes on the base (or different bases?). If there were some way to link the two inserts to maintain a consistent distance between them then the "drop the sawbase onto the UEG" would be super easy.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:35 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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There are probably several approaches in use for this. I'm using a dedicated saw so it isn't a problem. Andy modified the connectors so they could stay in the saw base when he was using the saw on the rail (track). I know with myself, If I remove the knobs there is a good chance I won't put them back on until I need them - by that time they could be anywhere in the shop. EZ has a lot of room for each of us to do things our own way.


Burt
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Old 09-25-2013, 04:01 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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To elaborate on what Burt said, Andy's fix is to cut away a section of the connectors where they interfere with the ridge slots in the saw base. Don't cut all the way through, just remove enough to clear the guide ridge of the track. At one time, Dino actually said that they would start supplying modified connectors with the UEG so that it would be easier to switch between UEG and track usage.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:52 PM
bigjohn1 bigjohn1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
To elaborate on what Burt said, Andy's fix is to cut away a section of the connectors where they interfere with the ridge slots in the saw base. Don't cut all the way through, just remove enough to clear the guide ridge of the track. At one time, Dino actually said that they would start supplying modified connectors with the UEG so that it would be easier to switch between UEG and track usage.
Yes there never was a fix sent out for this not sure if the new ones go out with the fix or not. I can see it taking sometime to play with.
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Old 09-26-2013, 02:57 AM
Ivanhoe Ivanhoe is offline
 
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You're not missing anything. I just take the inserts completely out and set them aside when I use it on the EZ-one. But the base that came with the UEG (speaking only for the one I own) has it's downfalls when moving it to the EZ-one. As mentioned you cannot add/remove the AC inserts with the connectors attached to the base and the connectors themselves are at least 1/16" too thick if left on the base which causes the saw to ride high on the center ridge of the bridge. I won't even comment on the fin.... I am considering dedicating my other CS to the UEG and foregoing the switch. The UEG is great. The base, well it isn't what I would call "universal."

Rod
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  #6  
Old 09-26-2013, 03:09 AM
bigjohn1 bigjohn1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivanhoe View Post
You're not missing anything. I just take the inserts completely out and set them aside when I use it on the EZ-one. But the base that came with the UEG (speaking only for the one I own) has it's downfalls when moving it to the EZ-one. As mentioned you cannot add/remove the AC inserts with the connectors attached to the base and the connectors themselves are at least 1/16" too thick if left on the base which causes the saw to ride high on the center ridge of the bridge. I won't even comment on the fin.... I am considering dedicating my other CS to the UEG and foregoing the switch. The UEG is great. The base, well it isn't what I would call "universal."

Rod
Yes well I'm sure they will work out the down falls along the way things are done quick at times with EZ.
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:37 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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hi guys.
I think the best way is to cut the one piece connector to smaller pieces.
Now we can switch from ueg to the tracks.

the team is working to find the best "universal" way.


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d
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  #8  
Old 09-27-2013, 11:54 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
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Default One peice connector

My recently purchased UEG has two short connectors per side - this set-up is actually as shown in the current UEG instructions - and I have no problem with lining up the ends of the bolts to assemble the saw base on the UEG. You just need to get the connectors on the one side in the approximate position, start the bolts into the holes in the sawbase and then move to the other side - the trick seems to be to just get the bolts started in the first set of holes before moving to the other end of the sawbase. Once you have all four bolts started, it's very easy to get the sawbase to drop onto the top of the rails - maybe because I had so much practice taking it off and on when I was fighting with the location of the fin. The other thing I do to assure consistency is to make sure that the inside step of the sawbase is tight against the same rail every time before tightening the nuts as the base can be cocked slightly because of the small clearance between the steps of the sawbase and the inside of the rails.

Tom
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