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Old 12-22-2016, 03:51 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lexington, Ky
Posts: 905

Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
How are you attaching the "D" handle and the "triangle" to the actual track?
You can use anything that fits.

In the pic, starting with the "D" handle and going clockwise:

-"D" handle is held in place by a bar of aluminum (from that has been milled a bit (using the EZ-SSRK router system and a 'tunnel-routing' set up; check the EZ forum "search" for 'tunnel routing'), and then had two 10-24 studs tapped into it. This is a bit labor intensive to make, but works great.

-In either side of the piece of track, I've inserted a couple of 'ready-to-hand' options: 5/16" wooden dowel on the left; 5/16" bolt on the right. The actual groove on the track measures ~8.25mmą tall x 7mm+ deep (behind the 'flanges'). That is close enough to allow anything 5/16" to be inserted. If you use wood, perhaps give it a slight sanding and then coat it with some sort of wood wax- will help it insert and slide easily.

-Underneath the track is the wooden "V". The insert and the screw are metric- sorry, I forget what size. (The little half-moon piece measures ~7.5mm across the widest part. The half moon pieces can be had from these folks: or These are a bit fiddly to use, but work well.

-Finally, on the bottom is a 10-24 screw that's had it's head hand-filed on two alternate sides, just enough to allow it to slide into the track edge and not rotate when tightened. The knurled nut is then used on the threaded portion to hold whatever. If preferred, you can also use a 10-24 nut, like in the pic, but you will need to file opposite flats on the nut to allow it to go in the groove.

I'm sure there are loads of other options. (I do have a couple of 1/4" carriage bolts that I 'whittled' w/a cut-off blade in my grinder to fit- works great!). Basically, anything you can get into the side groove is fine: t-nuts, barrel bolts, modified screw heads, etc. Generally, since the track is 1/2" thick at the edge, I try to make sure whatever I use is max 1/2" thick.

Also, fwiw, I've found JW Winco (linked earlier) to be a great source for fixture knobs. For screws, nuts, bolts, etc., these guys are super: This is where I got the knurled finger nuts.

I've included a shot of a digital caliper in the pic. This inexpensive tool (~$10 on sale from Harbor Freight) is indispensible. If you don't have one already, I encourage you to put it on your short-list of necessary tools.

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Old 12-23-2016, 10:33 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 271

I have several calipers. I love them. Although, I can't seem to find my combination metric/inch set

Seems like there are lots of options. I guess I bought a system that needs to be hacked. Or at least begs to be hacked. I have never really worked with aluminum extrusions before, not 80/20 no t-track nothing... So here begins my journey.

Hopefully, though, I can actually get the system working as designed before I go on and need to start hacking into it too much.
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Old 01-02-2017, 11:12 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 271

I got my strips cut tonight, and they almost lay where the cutline will be. Perhaps if I clamp it down then it will be right on, but not until after I clamp it.

I fought to get the CS10 cutting square (enough). It took a lot of tweaking and such but now it seems to cut close enough, if things don't wiggle any on the rail. I am not sure if it is the saw wiggling in the base, or the base wiggling on the rail, but somehow there is a bit of instability happening in the cut. Certainly not a precision cut, but perhaps it is tweaky, and I will have to learn to hold things just right and get some consistency in my cutting. Definitely not better, at this point, than a clamped straight edge.

Did I buy a terrible saw? I am assuming that the Bosch CS10 is not a $300 or $400 saw by any means, but do I actually need something better than this? Of course, I doubt I can return it what with several holes tapped into the base and such.

Getting the cabinet maker to align dead square it also a fun task. I went so far as to get one of Swan's larger 12" speed squares and after about 10 minutes of tweaking and such I seem now to have something that cuts reasonably square. I don't have anything big enough to do a 5 cut test on, but I would like to do that, though I am not sure how I would effect the appropriate correction if I did. It definitely seems like once it is attached and square it should be left attached and square since the amount of time it takes to do so is unacceptably excessive for something that I would want to do on any kind of regular basis.

I assume this one doesn't work the way the one Dino shows on the video, where he is able to square it by simply tightening the knob gently. I was impressed the way he was able to flip it to the opposite and do the classic make a line flip it and make another to prove it is square. Whatever that actually was that he used, was definitely not this.

So far the more I use this system the more I appreciate both my table saw and my chop saw. I really do want to fall in love with it. It so seems like something that should be able to work, but so far I think the best it will be, is taking the place of clamping down a straight edge for pieces I can't fit on the table saw. It just has to be better than that.

Next step will be to try and get the repeater to do something consistent. I ran out of shop time and patience tonight to do that but that will be on the agenda for next session. I have hope, that something has to "just work" this has the most potential for doing so. Fingers crossed.
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:04 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Balko, OK
Posts: 230


Sounds like a very frustrating situation. Hope you are able to iron it out. My EZ tools didn't completely replace my cabinet saw but they are just as accurate and have made my workflow faster and safer. Thus, more profitable.

The amount of play between the saw base and the guide rail should be the same as or less than the amount of play in a well-aligned miter gauge on your table saw. Mine is considerably less. If you have more play than that, a quick call to customer service might be in order.

Another issue might be play in the arbor on your saw. It happens and can cause poor cuts, binding, vibration, and such.

Another consideration is blade deflection. It will happen when forcing the saw through the cut. I had this problem right after getting my system. I bought a higher end full kerf blade and slowed down to let the saw do its job. Problem solved!

As discussed at length in several places on this forum, the bottom of the zero clearance insert usually needs to be sanded down. Otherwise, even if your saw is squared up, it won't lay flat while moving across material and will widen the angle a couple of degrees. (Very frustrating)

While I see areas for improvement, I've been very happy with my EZ tools and hope your experience dramtically improves, too. This forum can be a big help in all kinds of ways if you're willing to search. And then there are guys like me with opinions to spare.

Good luck!

Last edited by Tracedfar; 01-04-2017 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 01-04-2017, 03:58 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 271

Thanks Tracedfar, hopefully the frustration level will go down as I get more time in on it. Of course, I also just found out that most of my squares aren't... Precision has to start somewhere, so more shop chores to go

The forum has been quite helpful. The people here are great and definitely committed to the technology. I feel guilty even having an issue
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Old 06-02-2017, 04:54 AM
SantiagoRojas SantiagoRojas is offline
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 3

We have 14 cabinets total - I put them together by myself in 1 day while my partner was demo-ing the old cabinets thhe next day. We put them together and installed them ourselves. The Euro cabinet system is so much easier to install than American style cabinets. The wall cabinets all hang on a rail.
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