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  #11  
Old 09-25-2013, 03:56 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Unless you are cutting with the work piece vertical, there is no need for the fin.
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2014, 02:32 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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Is there any news on the thinner fin availability? I too, just received the UEG, and just now got around to trying it out. I am using the Diablo thin kerf 40 tooth. Dead stop with the fin, although I had anticipated as much.

I have been sanding on it, and it is getting there, a little at a time, but sure wish there was another option. On that note, I also tried the UEG without the fin installed, and it cut like a dream. I know others have said that you really only need the fin on vertical cuts, and it seems to me that by having your workpiece fully supported helps also.

I am also wondering why my measurements appear to be 1/16" off on the UEG guide. I was testing 2" x 48" strip cuts, and when I set the UEG at 2", I get 1- 15/16" instead. Maybe the thin blade may be flexing under load? I have measured the cut manually also, but it is the same.

It is very consistent, though, and when I set it for 2-1/16", all comes out on the money. I just have to remember that.
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  #13  
Old 03-29-2014, 03:52 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Not sure what is shipping now, but the UEG I have can be zeroed. How about a picture or two.
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2014, 04:06 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Mine did not come with scales so I had to add my own. I guess I would ask if the body of the saw is lose to the handle or away from the handle? Essentially is your cut dimension taking into account you blade width? Another question would the accuracy of the saw install on the base?

With all the potential variables that can occur with placement I would just recommend that once a person is all mounted up you make a test cut like you did and establish you own indexing mark, with a consideration that variable with blades may be used in the future.
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2014, 05:50 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Zeroing the UEG is simple. You just need to move the fence to the side of the blade and set the scale to 0. If you do that and you still have an inaccurate cut width then it might be the the blade is warped or the saw shaft has too much end play.
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2014, 07:36 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Not sure what is shipping now, but the UEG I have can be zeroed. How about a picture or two.
I'll try and post pics when I get it set back up tomorrow. Broke it all down earlier and put it up. I will be cutting and putting tops on my workbench tomorrow. I'm going to work at tweaking the fin a little more, and also setting up and trying the guide rail, and the b300 for the first time also.

All bolts to the UEG are pretty much set up to install one way only with pre drilled holes. The smart base was pre-installed on my EZ smart hitachi c7bmr from Eurekazone. The edge of the base is flush with the edge of the smart base like it is supposed to be. This is a brand new blade, but I will check for warp. My guess is blade kerf accountability at this point. The scale is not adjustable.
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2014, 07:57 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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Trying to post pics... Hope this works.
http://www.tracksawforum.com/attachm...1&d=1396130131
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  #18  
Old 03-29-2014, 08:02 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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More pics...http://www.tracksawforum.com/attachm...1&d=1396130421
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  #19  
Old 03-29-2014, 08:02 PM
jgowrie jgowrie is offline
 
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I will have to look at mine when I go back out to the shop tomorrow. I don't recall anyway to calibrate the UEG. The holes for assembling the arms to the fence are set and not adjustable except for squaring the arms to the fence. When I did use it a week ago it was accurate to at least within a 1/32" but I wan't doing anything that required tighter tolerances.
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  #20  
Old 03-29-2014, 08:12 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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I've tried to show the set bolt locations, and the last pic shows the base flushed with the smart base, and the smart base flushed with the fence. The fence does not move, and the saw mounts to 2 connectors that have 2 bolts each that insert through pre set holes in the smart base.

It looks like I may be limited to a minimum cut of around 1-3/4" cut with the UEG. I already have plans to get more guide rail later, so anything less than 1-3/4" will be easy... or ez? Anyway, I liked what I've seen so far minus the little stuff. And I do appreciate all of the input. I can use all of that, that I can get as a rookie.
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