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  #11  
Old 02-04-2018, 01:32 PM
sean9c sean9c is online now
 
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Are you talking about a new production part that all EZ users can use or just some custom thing for a beam saw?
I'm talking about the sawdust on your wood, not on the track. AC-2's or whatever should be designed to push it to the side not ride over it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
sean,. the outrigger/stabilizer is 2 parts.
one replaces the ac-2 and is adjustable( renewable) 5" long.
and the other is a thin strip 3/4"x1/2" high x 12"? long. the length of the base ) that works like a stabilizer.
( removable when off the track.
this is only for the 16" beam saw.

about sawdust...
I can't see a CS without the dust port and shield.
But even there...the ez tracks have channels for the sawdust.
3 years in testing. the biggest problem was sawdust.
the channels take care this issue.

tx.
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2018, 03:46 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
Are you talking about a new production part that all EZ users can use or just some custom thing for a beam saw?
I'm talking about the sawdust on your wood, not on the track. AC-2's or whatever should be designed to push it to the side not ride over it.
Anyone can use a 1/2" thick strip. many have done that.

We use to make the 2 pieces on the moduni base.
One piece was for antichip and stability.

the first piece was 3" wide x5" long with 2 slots 4 OC ( on center)
we call it AC-3.
2 slots to make it adjustable=renewable.

the other piece was to give you 100% stability that
you really only needed on the large saws.

If you have sawdust on the wood just remove it?
If the sawdust is created by the cut...you can see the sawbase pushing the dust on the extruded channels.
we may gat something mixed here but the sawdust is a problem.
If you remember we use to make the ez-glide.
a router base that was textra allowing the dust to stay behind instead
of becoming a sandpaper. Due to very expensive materials and tooling...
we stopped offering the ez-glide base.
You can find a similar copy in one Festool base.

What you can do if you use delicate materials and you don't like scratches...
make few v slots in your router base.
If you don't use an ez-track...make the v slots on the sawbase.
Make a cut and you will see the lines of dust very clearly.

Same if you want better chip and sawdust extraction.
Make V slots that start from the center. That will increase the removal.

tx
d
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2018, 02:10 PM
RED RED is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Goetzke View Post
Red - you may also want to check the anti-chip saw bas insert. Sometimes this causes the saw to rise at one end. Solution - put some sandpaper under it while on the rail and blade retracted and sand it down a bit.

Mike
I was unable to work on this for a while, but back on it now. I spent quite a while yesterday checking several things on my EZ-One. First, i made sure the saw blade was square to the base. That was perfect. Then, I removed both ACEs. I noticed a slight gap on the cutting side (right side) of the track between the track and the frame when the bridge was lowered onto the frame. That made sense the way the bevel was oriented. I adjusted the bridge connections to the track and the frame until the gap was gone. So far, so good. When I set the saw back on the track and ran it across a board with the blade up and no power, I saw where the anti-chip insert on the base was, indeed, bumping the board. I sanded that down until that was no longer an issue.

I went around to make sure all my nuts and bolts were tight and made a test cut. Test cut was good. The end was square across width and thickness. Great! Then I decided to make final cuts on some rails I had milled to width and thickness. I decided to make another test cut on a wider piece of plywood to confirm the 90 degree angle was good on a larger piece. Again, excellent results. So, I made the first "final" cut on one of the rails. It went out of adjustment again, giving m both a bevel and a slight miter. I thought maybe I had some dust or something, so I checked and recut. Same thing. It's been out both ways on every succeeding test cut, unless I go back through and reset everything. It simply will not stay in alignment. I can get one or two good test cuts before it goes out again. Getting frustrated! Any other ideas?
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2018, 03:24 PM
sean9c sean9c is online now
 
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If you're cutting some narrow stock I'd make sure I had a same thickness piece supporting the other edge of the track. If you're getting a miter something is just not square or parallel your track.
Another thing to try is make the same cut using the same saw setup on a track but not on the EZ1, so no B300. That could help you locate the cause.
I've also had using a new sharp blade versus a used blade cause differences in cuts. I think that's because of the slop between saw and track. I know when I start the cut using new blade the saw stays nice and straight, when the blade gets dull I can feel the saw twist a little when the cut starts. That can't be good.
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2018, 07:28 PM
RED RED is offline
 
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The stock I was cross-cutting was long enough to fully support the track, so no problem there. The blade is still pretty new, so that shouldn't be it, although I could just have a "bad" blade. I hadn't thought of trying OFF the EZ-One, just on a track. I'll give it a shot. That could narrow down the issue.

The miter was, indeed, a surprise. That one didn't make any sense. I checked it immediately after one of the bad cuts, and it was still square to my square -- and the last time I checked my square it was right on. My square would have to be out about an inch over the twenty-four inches for it to be off enough to get a miter the size of the one I got.

I'll do some more testing, but I'm open to other input. I have to be missing an adjustment somewhere that's loose for the track to keep getting a gap on the right side after a couple of cuts. Although, now that I think about it, if something is loose, the weight of the saw would be enough to make the track go back to flat with respect to the EZ-One frame. No, forget that. When the track gets that gap on the right between it and the frame, I have to loosen the nuts to get it back to level. So, the connections between the bridge, rail and frame aren't loose. I know, I know, this doesn't make any sense, but that's what's happening.

RED
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2018, 11:14 PM
davehodge davehodge is offline
 
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Red look and see if your track is lying flat against the table if it is still than the bridge isn’t the trouble . Now make sure the saw blade is parallel with the groove on the base it needs to be perfect front of blade and back of blade to the groove. Make sure your blade doesn’t have a wobble to it also that it is real sharp.when you start into the wood with the blade start slowly and steady otherwise you can start a blade wobble. I use a 24 tooth diablo blade with good results more teeth you have to feed at a slower feed rate. Hope this helps you!
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2018, 11:16 PM
davehodge davehodge is offline
 
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Red look and see if your track is lying flat against the table if it is still than the bridge isnít the trouble . Now make sure the saw blade is parallel with the groove on the base it needs to be perfect front of blade and back of blade to the groove. Make sure your blade doesnít have a wobble to it also that it is real sharp.when you start into the wood with the blade start slowly and steady otherwise you can start a blade wobble. I use a 24 tooth diablo blade with good results more teeth you have to feed at a slower feed rate. Hope this helps you!
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2018, 12:42 AM
RED RED is offline
 
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I loosen the nuts, get the bridge track to lie flat on the EZ-One frame on both sides of the track for the full length of the EZ-One, retighten the nuts, track still lying flat and make a test cut or two. It's fine, but the third cut or so I'll see it start cutting at a bevel again. When I take the saw off and lower the track back to the frame that right side is high again, and it will stay high until I go through the leveling process all over again. Then, again, it'll be good for a couple of cuts and then the right side of the track goes high again. That right side of the track will be off the frame by .010" at least. At least it's consistent -- one or two cuts good, then have to reset. That should be telling me something, but, so far, it's not.

I've been tied up most of the day today and haven't had a chance to try cutting on a track, but not on the EZ-One, as sean9c suggested. Hopefully, I can try that tomorrow.
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  #19  
Old 03-01-2018, 02:31 AM
sean9c sean9c is online now
 
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My intent was to suggest that you have your track supported width wise with material not length wise.
Good luck, keep us posted
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  #20  
Old 03-03-2018, 04:49 PM
tmitchell807 tmitchell807 is offline
 
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Default RED.....I hate to say I told you so...........

but I basically said everything that I could besides coming right out and saying DO NOT buy this system. Go back to your EZ One vs Tablesaw Thread you posted a few months ago and look at my reply ( 2nd page ). I spent a year trying to resolve the issues you are dealing with. I hope you have more success or way more patience than I did.........

Good Luck
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