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  #21  
Old 03-21-2016, 09:52 AM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Originally, Dino said they should be 3/4" below, and my experience is that works best.
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  #22  
Old 03-21-2016, 11:16 AM
jbrewton jbrewton is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Originally, Dino said they should be 3/4" below, and my experience is that works best.
Thanks Dik,

I will be making the modification tonight.
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  #23  
Old 04-13-2016, 04:39 PM
RISKDR01 RISKDR01 is offline
 
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Location: CHINO HILLS, CA
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Default Same issue of squareness

Seem to me there are at least four potential sources of not being able to get a 90 degree edge cut. 1.Your original saw base is not at 90 degrees. On my Makita 5008 there are two screws on the base plate to deal with this. That should be the starting point before even mounting the EZ base because once you mount it you cannot get to the screws. 2. Number two is the EZ base not sitting flat on your saws base. This is a piece of plastic and it can distort or possibly be manufactured with errors in flatness. If this is the source of the out of square condition it could be shimmed. Complicating this is the fact that it could be distorted in more than one plane. McMaster-Carr is a great source for steel shim stock that could be placed under the edges of the saw base plate and the EZ plate. 3. The other source can be how the whole thing sits in the track and that can have more than one glitch. It is a matter of making ONE change at a time and I think making test cuts. 4. The idea of sanding that hump is of course one of the possible fixes. One other thing I may do is adjusting the bevel angle on the saw until it squares the blade but this would only work in one direction since once this is zeroed at its 90 degree position you could not get any correction in one direction and if that is the direction you need to go then shims would have to be placed. If I sound like I might know what I am talking about you would be wrong. I just got my plate installed and sure enough I am off of 90 degrees. I am about to embark on my own advise.
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  #24  
Old 04-13-2016, 06:52 PM
RISKDR01 RISKDR01 is offline
 
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Default Followup

I was able to take about 2 degrees out of the error with the bevel adjustment on my Makita 5008. I am now at 90.3-90.7 depending on where on the cut that I measure using a digital protractor. getting that last little bit would probably be difficult using the bevel adjustment on the Makita. No fine adjustement and I can't access the fine adjustment screws on the Mak since they are under the EZ base. I am thinking that sanding the bottom of the hump on the zero clearance part (or whatever its called) would take me the other way? So, maybe a shim between the EZ base and the Makita base would be the next trick. OR, maybe 3- 7 tenths of a degree is all I can hope for in this type of system?? BTW, I am not real strong in the geometry area.

Wadda you think?
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  #25  
Old 04-14-2016, 06:52 AM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Risk,

you can drill a hole in the EZ base to be able to access the fine adjustment screw on the saw.
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  #26  
Old 04-14-2016, 11:37 AM
RISKDR01 RISKDR01 is offline
 
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Default Thank you Dik

I did think about that and it is probably something I should have done in the beginning. I hate to take the base off again and disturb everything. On the other hand the holes that I have drilled will probably index it back back where it is and I could probably capture those last few tenths of degrees.

On another note, is the 5008 compatible with the Moduni base and is there any thing to be gained? It looks pretty good. On the other hand I already have too many holes in my saw base.
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  #27  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:56 PM
RISKDR01 RISKDR01 is offline
 
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Default I suppose I kinda got off topic

but I was responding to another members post. I will take it to a new thread.
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  #28  
Old 04-19-2016, 04:30 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrewton View Post
Purchased the EZ-one workbench recently and I am having issues with material moving (causing cuts to not be squared). When I let the track fall on the material, the forward movement of the track will push the material forward. I have the material referenced on the edge of the first rail expecting square cuts. Any help would be appreciated.
Use the fence on front of the materials.
Use the 6 way stops if needed. Only 1 is fine.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Hi guys.
health issues and more kept me away from posting.
Things look better now. Thanks to all of you and the EZ partners...ez is alive.

thanks.


tx
d
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Last edited by Dino; 04-19-2016 at 05:01 PM.
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  #29  
Old 04-19-2016, 04:50 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Default square cut.

Keep the adjustment screw accessible, make a hole ( reed directions )

Make a cut on a piece of scrap. 3/4" ( remove a small section 12"x12" ( +- )
Place the small cit piece vertically against the cut line ( of the largest piece)

use a square and see the results.
adjust saw...If needed.

ac-2. Sand the hump only in the front 1/2" ( reed directions )
Good luck even if you don't need it.

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  #30  
Old 04-20-2016, 12:13 AM
RISKDR01 RISKDR01 is offline
 
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Default Thank you, Dino

I finally did drill the hole and adjusted blade to 90 degrees to the new face plate. Now it is just a matter of my technique. I did sand the bump very carefully and the saw rides the track very nice. It is now just a matter of applying pressure carefully so as not to flex the 5008 height adjustment mechanism.
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