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Old 09-01-2016, 04:59 PM
johare johare is offline
 
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Default Setting up Cabinet/Furniture Shop

Hello! I just moved from MN to Brooklyn and am transitioning my business from more of an onsite remodeling type business to a more in shop cabinet and furniture business. I had a small shop before where I built cabinets for kitchen remodels but I'm sick of lugging tools back and forth to jobsites and intense timelines. I sold my larger shop equipment (ie tablesaw, miter saw etc) before leaving MN with the intention of setting up a new shop. In doing research on table saws and shop equipment I came across this system and am sold on it as a great solution for me. My new shop is also small. I want to keep it very simple but still have the power & precision needed to do fine woodworking, as well as efficiency. I do have a budget but I'm ready to buy what is necessary to keep me from being under-tooled in the future.

Me in short:
-small 1 man shop
-working primarily with 1x/2x material, plywood & hardwood
-building things like cabinets, end tables, dressers, shelving, small woodworking projects, etc.
-looking for professional grade setup, re: power & accuracy
-not high production but want ease and efficiency
-want room to grow in terms of tool abilities and application
-My intention is to replace my table saw and miter saw with this setup. I want a saw that will provide max possible accuracy, rip accurate miters, and be powerful enough to cut cleanly and easily.
-I plan to make this the center of my workshop and make whatever jigs and tables necessary to streamline my production and let it serve as a cutting, routing, sanding, and clamping station.
-I own a 7 1/4" Bosch 1677MD Wormdrive (which I love for its torque, durability, and sightlines)

What I'm considering:
-EZ1 MAX and the Super Smart Routing Kit
-My Bosch wormdrive, OR 8 1/4" Makita ,OR 10 1/4" Makita, OR my wormdrive + Big Foot saw adapter
-2.3HP Bosch plunge router OR 3.25HP Bosch plunge router

I'd like advice about:
-Which saw?
-Is it worth buying a 8 1/4" saw when I already own a 7 1/4"?
-What reasons would one buy a 8 1/4" or 10 1/4"? Is one more accurate? Is the 10 1/4" unwieldy? Should I just upgrade my wormdrive with a Big Foot Saw adapter? I've heard very mixed reviews, how accurate are they?

Which router?
-I'm more or less decided on the Bosch 2.3HP Plunge Router. I am also considering the Bosch 3.25HP. I used to cut dados on my tablesaw but plan on putting the router to more heavy duty work such as this.
-Which of these would be my best option and why?

EZ1 Table questions:
-Are the aluminum legs stable and sturdy enough for a permanent type bench setup? I like the idea of having the extrusion legs for the possibility of vertical jigs but I also want a nice solid table and I'm not planning on taking it anywhere.
-The UEG doesn't seem necessary if I have the MAX. Is there a reason I should still consider it?
-Is the MAX bridge less accurate or have less clamping power due to it's length? If I want accuracy on very small fine cuts as well as long rips would this work?

Lastly I wrote Dino about this and he suggested the following:
"Jael. here is the list.
ez-1 with 2x4,4x4 legs. Make your own.
ssrk with all stops ( 4)
track saw system 114 ( 2 pieces)
UEG. with 5008 MGA saw. Makita
And a smart table kit.

a good start for a shop.
Go to the forum. best place for advice."

To me this seems like underkill. I really don't like the idea of having to transform my worktable in order to rip full sheets which I will be doing A LOT. I'm done with fussing around with half measures. With this system and my 15+ experience woodworking I see the potential to have a really nice tight efficient workshop in a small place. People used to build gorgeous furniture with hand tools I think this setup could be stellar.

**Perhaps the shorter version of this post is simply: WHAT IS YOUR DREAM IN SHOP WOODWORKING SETUP W/ THE EZSMART SYSTEM?
Thank you in advance for your thoughts!

Last edited by johare; 09-01-2016 at 05:04 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-01-2016, 07:29 PM
kenk kenk is online now
 
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My little bits of advice:

I'd save your beloved worm-drive saw for use off-system and go with one of the Makita saws. The 7-1/4" saw will easily cut through up to 2x materials. Take note of the on track and off track depth of cut for the EZ Ready Makita saws. That will tell you how deep they'll cut. I'm not sure how thick you'll need to cut, so ...

Be careful with other saws. I have the Hitachi EZ Ready saw too and it just barely will NOT cut clean through a 2x board when on the track. I have to finish the cut with a sharp knife.

I got the EZ Ready saw and like their setup for dust collection. You can do that yourself or have Eurekazone do it for you. Your choice. There is even a video out there somewhere showing you how to do it.

I have the Bosch 2.3 hp and like it. Both saws get VERY good reviews. On the SSRK the 3.25 hp router's light - which I think might be nice - is irrelevant. I'm honestly not sure why you'd need more hp than that. Bigger cuts aren't so clean, and by simply doing more passes (increasing depth) it seems a nonfactor. Regardless, I'd suggest you get the package with both fixed and plunge bases, and then buy an extra plunge base (just the base) and install the extra base onto the SSRK. That way you can use the router both on the SSRK and hand-held. That's what I did.

If you get the EZ-1 and find it to be too wiggly for your taste it is VERY easy to add wood braces both horizontally and angled. I can't imagine it will be a problem. Still, eventually, for my dream shop I plan to build a separate assembly/work table to leave the EZ-1 available for cutting.

About the UEG, I tend to agree that if you have the Max EZ-1 its not really needed. Then again the price is relatively small. You may want to try it and see what you think. Personally I found it a pain to connect/unconnect the saw, so the Hitachi saw is permanently mated with my UEG,, which the Makita saw is used with the EZ-1 and rails.

Which reminds me, consider getting at least a pair of Smart Clamps and a length of rail for off EZ-1 cuts and SSRK use. (Regular EZ-1 users can just remove the 72" rail, but the Max's rail is HUGE). It adds a lot of flexibility. I'd suggest the 64" rail. IT will also be useful for bevel cuts.

You may want to get a few EZ Smart Bench clamps and/or the EZ Smart Hold Down clamps for "whatever" uses on the EZ-1. They can hold wood on the top, the sides, ... It adds flexibility.

Ken K.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2016, 10:45 AM
Burt Burt is offline
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I had a cabinet shop until my health forced me to quit. I transitioned it from 3 unisaws to an all EZ shop. I would add the cabinet maker to Dino's list.

We found that it was easier to move the ueg or cabinetmaker than it was to move a sheet of plywood into a precise location as required by the EZ Max. (I built an EZ Max sized system. It didn't last very long.) The smart table along with the cabinetmaker and UEG made quick work of sheet goods. It was quicker and easier work than using the unisaw.

As for saws, go with the Makita 5008. It has the capacity to deal with 8/4 hardwoods.

Which routers is a good question. You will definitely want something in the Bosch 1617 class. If you are going to make raised panel doors with a router, you will also want a 3 horse plus router.

The system as described by Dino plus the cabinet maker will handle all of your needs. It doesn't sound like a lot of stuff but it is a lot of capability. I enjoyed working with it.

Burt

Last edited by Burt; 09-02-2016 at 10:48 AM.
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2016, 06:27 PM
kenk kenk is online now
 
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Burt,

What length rail did you find worked well for the Cabinetmaker?

Ken K.
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2016, 09:04 AM
Burt Burt is offline
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I believe that I was using a 54". The 60 seemed to be a bit long. I wanted just enough to be able to cross cut a 4 x 8 sheet.

Burt


Quote:
Originally Posted by kenk View Post
Burt,

What length rail did you find worked well for the Cabinetmaker?

Ken K.
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  #6  
Old 09-03-2016, 11:03 AM
kenk kenk is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burt View Post
I believe that I was using a 54". The 60 seemed to be a bit long. I wanted just enough to be able to cross cut a 4 x 8 sheet.
Burt
Hmmm ... I use a 25" rail with my older square, but think that is pretty short - would have rather had a 36" rail or so for a better "launch pad".

I'm trying to visualize how you manage the 48" cut with no clamps without the rail moving. Does the rail actually stay in place without you holding the square fairly tight?

[Edit] By the way, I picture you walking the saw along the shorter side of the plywood sheet during the cut - rather than simply reaching over the square like I have done with the short rail.

Ken K.

Last edited by kenk; 09-03-2016 at 11:08 AM.
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  #7  
Old 09-03-2016, 12:26 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenk View Post
Hmmm ... I use a 25" rail with my older square, but think that is pretty short - would have rather had a 36" rail or so for a better "launch pad".

I'm trying to visualize how you manage the 48" cut with no clamps without the rail moving. Does the rail actually stay in place without you holding the square fairly tight?

[Edit] By the way, I picture you walking the saw along the shorter side of the plywood sheet during the cut - rather than simply reaching over the square like I have done with the short rail.

Ken K.
Actually I had a selection of squares with different length rails. I assumed that you were asking about the length of a rail for 4 x 8 sheets.

Most often I used about a 30" rail. That would get me a cross cut on stock ripped for base cabinets. Dino advocates taking that kind of cut to the EZ-1.

Burt
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  #8  
Old 09-03-2016, 03:52 PM
kenk kenk is online now
 
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BAck to the original topic ...

I only recently realized that EurekaZone is offering the EZSMART Multiform Table Top Kit, which is an updated version of what they used to call the EZ Smart Table (as I recall). I have the older version with plastic on both of the sliding parts . Attached to 2'x4' plywood with two folding banquet leg sets ... and really really like it. Very recommended for rail cutting as a sacrificial surface that also gives plenty of room & options for clamping, AND it folds down for stowing away.

Ken K.
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  #9  
Old 09-04-2016, 11:30 AM
Minnesota Marty Minnesota Marty is offline
 
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Location: Cottage Grove, MN
Posts: 52
Default Experience is a great teacher

Burt,
I check this forum to get your insights to using the EZ Smart system. Your knowledgeable use of the system in helpful to me as a carpenter. As I now work more by myself the EZ Smart is a great way to go.
It takes a little getting used to integrating the system into your methods but eventually it comes.
Thanks for the input.

Marty
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  #10  
Old 09-04-2016, 04:50 PM
johare johare is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burt View Post
I had a cabinet shop until my health forced me to quit. I transitioned it from 3 unisaws to an all EZ shop. I would add the cabinet maker to Dino's list.

We found that it was easier to move the ueg or cabinetmaker than it was to move a sheet of plywood into a precise location as required by the EZ Max. (I built an EZ Max sized system. It didn't last very long.) The smart table along with the cabinetmaker and UEG made quick work of sheet goods. It was quicker and easier work than using the unisaw.

As for saws, go with the Makita 5008. It has the capacity to deal with 8/4 hardwoods.

Which routers is a good question. You will definitely want something in the Bosch 1617 class. If you are going to make raised panel doors with a router, eyou will also want a 3 horse plus router.

The system as described by Dino plus the cabinet maker will handle all of your needs. It doesn't sound like a lot of stuff but it is a lot of capability. I enjoyed working with it.

Burt
Thanks for your thoughts! Without the MAX setup how do you make longer rips if you dont have a good reference edge? What other tools did you have in your shop? Im intetested in experimenting with jointing and surface planing on the system, part of why I was thinking the MAX so i could rip longer boards.
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