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Old 11-24-2016, 08:32 AM
kenk kenk is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 282
Default Edge Groove with SSRK

I've been learning about how to build simple cabinet doors. Its fairly common to build a frame using 1x3 boards with a 1/4" panel slide into grooves. How would you put grooves into the edge of a 1x3 board using an SSRK? Using a slot router bit? If so, how do you control the width of the groove - to match the thickness of the plywood?

Ken K.
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  #2  
Old 11-24-2016, 08:46 AM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, Tx.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenk View Post
I've been learning about how to build simple cabinet doors. Its fairly common to build a frame using 1x3 boards with a 1/4" panel slide into grooves. How would you put grooves into the edge of a 1x3 board using an SSRK? Using a slot router bit? If so, how do you control the width of the groove - to match the thickness of the plywood?

Ken K.
Try one of these: http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5168-slo...w&refresh=true

No SSRK required; router bit has a guide bearing.
HTH
Rick
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2016, 11:56 AM
kenk kenk is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 282
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I guess using the slot cutter with the bearing makes sense.

I have a router table (not used much). Do you think its any safer to do this using a router table - in comparison to using it handheld.

Also, now that I have an EZ-One I suppose that I could imagine clamping the board to the side SSME and then using a track on top of the EZ-One to run the SSRK along the edge of the board.

I don't really want to move the bridge to do this so I'm picturing using a separate rail. The only thing I'm not sure of is how to clamp the rail to the EZ-One sliding rails. Hmmm.
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2016, 01:12 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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About as easy as you can get using a router table. One possible advantage over the cutter Rick recommended is that with a router table you can make passes with increasing depth of cut.
You could certainly figure out how to do it on an EZ1 but you'll also likely end up with slower setup and production.
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  #5  
Old 11-25-2016, 01:12 PM
philb philb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 162
Default Router Table

Kenk: I have a router table and would not be without it. I typically use matched router bit sets for my coped frames, but you can make the slot with a plywood bit and the router table. You can set the depth and position of your groove perfectly. I use feather boards on top and front. Just focusing on feeding the material. There are lots of operations that you can do with the SSRK on your EZ1, but some operations are easy using other tools and keeping your stops and guides in place while building, makes for consistent operations, and pro quality finished product. Your saw on the EZ1 with a plywood bit in your router table, for 1/4" plywood and you can make nice looking Mission style, or Shaker style cabinet doors. I have NOT used the SSRK for hinge installing, but I suspect it could be a good set up. Using stops and guides, with a Fortsner bit in the plunge router. I think it would be worth the effort to set up and try.

I found that my most important operation for cabinet work was thickness planed boards. Making consistent cuts on consistent dimensioned lumber, was more important than what tool I used to make the cut.

Please make note, that I am NOT saying the SSRK should not be used for your needs. I am saying that if you have choices, look at all your choices and use the tools that make your life easier and the task enjoyable. Enjoying your project is important.
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Last edited by philb; 11-25-2016 at 01:17 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2016, 01:14 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, Tx.
Posts: 900
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenk View Post
I guess using the slot cutter with the bearing makes sense.

I have a router table (not used much). Do you think its any safer to do this using a router table - in comparison to using it handheld.

Also, now that I have an EZ-One I suppose that I could imagine clamping the board to the side SSME and then using a track on top of the EZ-One to run the SSRK along the edge of the board.

I don't really want to move the bridge to do this so I'm picturing using a separate rail. The only thing I'm not sure of is how to clamp the rail to the EZ-One sliding rails. Hmmm.
I'm away from the shop for a few days, so can't post pics of routing options; will do so when I return if you want. Can you post pics of potential options in your shop? Maybe folks can chime in with helpful input.
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2016, 11:33 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Balko, OK
Posts: 225
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I keep my SSRK set up for dadoes and grooves and, with a little attention, it works as well as a dado stack in a table saw and is safer and faster.

However, when it comes to any kind of rail and stile, cope and stick, tongue and groove, etc., my router table and a matched set of router bits is faster and more accurate than any other method I've tried (short of a shaper which is overkill for my work).

Also, most rail and stile sets come with explicit instructions to avoid using them "free-handed" which makes sense if you think it through.

I'm with some others. You could figure out how to do it on your EZ1 but it might not be practical.
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  #8  
Old 11-25-2016, 11:45 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 248
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I have a TS but use the UEG and Cabinet Maker for breaking down sheets of plywood t manageable sizes. My next big project is a PBB, and I'm hoping to be able to cut parts to finished sizes rather than completing them on the TS - currently looking for a blade that will give me what I feel is an acceptable finished cut.

For cutting the groove in the edge of door rails as stiles as mentioned by the OP, I find that cutting the grooves is quickest on the TS - I "eyeball" center the kerf in the part and run it through twice, flipping the side that runs against he fence between passes. The fence is moved in increments until the groove is an acceptable fit on the plywood panel. You could do the same thing on the router table with a slitting cutter, but you'd have to follow the same process as there is the requirement to have the slot exactly centered in the parts to make it easier to cut the stub tenon on the end of the rails

First photo shows checking the fit of the groove to the plywood panel.

Second photo shows the door parts complete and ready for assembly.

Third photo shows cutting the stub tenon on the end of the rails, same method as cutting the grooves, taking an equal pass on each side until you get to the required fit.

Fourth photo shows a set-up/modification of MagSwitch components to hold the rails and stiles on the TS tight against both the table top and the fence.

Fifth photo shows one of the segments clamped to the fixture, after running thru the TS to add the chamfer to the bottom edge.

I've just finished making six drawers for cabinets that sit under my adjustable height workbench - I usually cut the grooves for the plywood drawer bottom on the TC, cutting a first groove and then moving the fence until I get the fit to the plywood panel but I cut these on the router table using a 7/32" bit which gave me an acceptable fit. The groove was 1/4" deep so I cut it in two passes (although I could probably have cut it in one), not sure if the total time was really less but it seemed to go quicker.

Another operation for the TS - I make turtle planters; the body is made of (5) hexagonal rings with chamfers on the edges to give it the required "shape". I made a fixture to hold the segments while cutting the chamfer on the edge, not something that would be easy to do on the EZ1.
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