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  #1  
Old 09-23-2017, 10:03 AM
kenk kenk is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
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Default Does Anyone Still Use Repeaters??

Is anyone out there still using Repeaters, or have most EZSMART people moved to using the Universal Edge Guide (UEG)?

How many are using the Cabinetmaker (Square + Repeater)???

Just wondering.

Ken K.
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  #2  
Old 09-23-2017, 11:00 AM
philb philb is offline
 
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Posts: 159
Default Repeaters

Yes I use them. I have never really liked the UEG. Probably a personal preference issue. I am disabled and my left arm and shoulder are pretty much useless especially with gross motor movement. My fingers on my left side can type but lifting (even a can of root beer) is not possible. My body is mangled up in other ways as well. That said, I may be using the cabinet maker system and the Rip Sizer due to my physical challenges.
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2017, 11:07 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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I use the UEG for ripping sheets down to size before cross cutting. I bought the Cabinet Maker, with repeater, but have never used the repeater. I installed it on the square once, decided I didn't like it and took it off without making a cut. I use the one I've posted before when I'm making multiples, it works well.
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  #4  
Old 09-23-2017, 11:25 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I use the cabinet maker. But I find the repeater has too much play in the "finger" to consistently reproduce panels within 1/16 of an inch. I have started using a PEG instead of the repeater. I am hoping to dismantle the repeater and use the parts for something to get some value out of it at all.

The ueg seems to work well on the 2 instances that I used it, but it is just not the first thing I reach for. Especially since I am more concerned with 30" than < 24".

I don't really break down my plywood from full sheets since I can't fit a whole sheet in my prius. So they get cut to ~32' x 48" at the store. So I like to square it with the cabinet maker, then cut out panels. Although cutting the 48" with the 56" cabinet maker is less than ideal. It really should be about 12" longer.

The initial motivation for buying the EZ at all was not being able to use my tablesaw fence beyond 24. So I went with the EZ instead of building a wide cross cut sled. So I probably could have been good with just the cabinet maker and not the UEG. But I am trying to love the tools.

For me, if I am going to use the UEG I need to dedicate a saw to it. Putting it on and taking it off is too much of an inconvenience.

Also, I really wish the cabinet maker would self set to 90° ... I find zero need to ever use it at any other angle... ever. I think a pair of well placed holes that could hold some pins, permanently or even temporarily would be all that is necessary, but I am not convinced I can place them accurately enough.
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  #5  
Old 09-23-2017, 12:42 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
.

For me, if I am going to use the UEG I need to dedicate a saw to it. Putting it on and taking it off is too much of an inconvenience.
Yes! I agree 100%. And since I only use UEG for rip cuts with the grain, a heavy duty saw with an expensive blade is not required. I find that cordless saws are great companions to the UEG.

As far as the Prius, Home Depot carries decent ply online now. They have that Columbia forest product ply in 24x48 sheets that ship for $5. They even have europly similar to Baltic birch. It's a few $ more than picking it up yourself at the lumber yard, but the time and effort offset from loading into a tiny car are worth it in my opinion.
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2017, 02:51 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, Tx.
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Is anyone out there still using Repeaters, or have most EZSMART people moved to using the Universal Edge Guide (UEG)?

How many are using the Cabinetmaker (Square + Repeater)???


When I first started out with EZ, I got one of the repeaters and used it a bit; quickly abandoned it, tho. Too cumbersome, and using it with the square was absolute frustration due to the square too easily going out of alignment.

Fast forward to after I did a few square revisions to keep it rock-solid when set: re-tried the repeater with much better results. Still cumbersome, but did a great job. The concept of the repeater is spot-on; the reality of execution, in my experience, while good, was not 'great'. I'm thinking it might have been more positive had my shop been set up to better accommodate the 'bulkiness' of the square/repeater combo: small shop; constrained space; small person (me); too much going on at the same time in the same space = recipe for chaos. I don't fault the tools for that; it was the combination of all of it that made use of the square/repeater combo less effective for me. If I had more room and was doing a significant amount of repetitively sized cuts, I would use the repeater- it is a great tool!

But, w/my restraints, I still had need to do what the repeaters/cabinetmaker did. So, I went in search of what would work for me. Ended up with variations on the concept. For narrower items, I use my 'mini-repeaters' (see the pic). For larger items, I set-up using my story stick, which is basically a removable repeater. (see the next pic). Both work super!

UEG is fantastic, but, in my experience, not the best approach in certain situations. Eg.: I recently needed to rip a few 1 1/4" thick white oak boards (11-12' long) into 5/16" wide strips which would then be fed thru the planer to size the strips to a bit under 1/4" thick. Started ripping the boards using the UEG, but the density of the wood and the fact that it would 'flex' as it was being cut (due to tension being relieved), and my 'need for speed', caused the UEG experience to be unsatisfactory. (Mainly due to the blade heating up and binding.)

Solution was to use straight track, w/one of my cut-line indicators, and a machinist square. (see the pic) Went just as fast, if not faster, than the UEG, was easier to manipulate, and, the results came out better than the UEG-cut pieces.

Also, when ripping 4 x 8 sheet goods into narrow strips, the potential for creating non-straight pieces increases, the more passes one makes; this is no different than trying to rip strips on the table saw: if you veer the edge guide off at any time, you create a raised part/bump-out/wobble/etc. at the cut line. Next few passes over that bump-out begins to amplify the bumped-out-ness of it, and w/in 4-6 passes, you are introducing the 'banana' look into your strips. So, whenever making lots of strips out of 4 x 8's, I'll make 3-5 passes; straight-line rip or router-edge a new straight line; continue with the UEG. Still way better than using a table saw IMO.

I realize my issue may be 'operator malfunction'; I'm just stating how I deal with it.

Another issue, for me, w/the UEG has to do with the amount of time to set it up. While it sets up fairly quickly, I can do the same thing using my story stick and straight track in about the same time. If I'm doing loads of ripping, the UEG is faster; depends on the project, the material being cut, and how grumpy I'm feeling that day...... lol.

The EZ tools are great, but like any tool, become a bit greater when they are tweaked to fit one's work style and need.
Rick
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Last edited by bumpnstump; 09-23-2017 at 02:55 PM.
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  #7  
Old 09-23-2017, 09:21 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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Location: Balko, OK
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When made the leap into EZSmart, I didn't get a repeater. I just wasn't sold on it. Instead, I make a DIY parallel guide when I need make a lot of repeat rips wider than the UEG can handle.

The UEG is great for me. I can crank out cabinet carcasses really fast. The problem now is that I've pretty much relegated my cabinet building to repairs and small custom jobs. I just can't compete with large shops with their CNC's running 24/7.
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2017, 09:31 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
Yes! I agree 100%. And since I only use UEG for rip cuts with the grain, a heavy duty saw with an expensive blade is not required. I find that cordless saws are great companions to the UEG.

As far as the Prius, Home Depot carries decent ply online now. They have that Columbia forest product ply in 24x48 sheets that ship for $5. They even have europly similar to Baltic birch. It's a few $ more than picking it up yourself at the lumber yard, but the time and effort offset from loading into a tiny car are worth it in my opinion.

I will have to look into that.. Of course 24x48 generates a fair amount of waste as opposed to 32x48. Considering that cabinets are either 768mm (about 30-1/2") or another 4" depending on whether you put a separate platform or feet etc. on it. (Eurostyle) But that, notwithstanding having stuff delivered might be nice.
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  #9  
Old 09-23-2017, 10:21 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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I still have two pairs of the original fixed squares, they work well.

I used the repeaters when I needed very accurate repeatable cuts. Again, I have the original version, but I had made a number of changes to get them to be repeatable repeaters. Some of those mods may help with tightening up the new versions or get you to think about ways to get yours where you want.

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=4390

And yeah, there’s a lot of metal twirling around.
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  #10  
Old 09-23-2017, 11:33 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooManyToys View Post
I still have two pairs of the original fixed squares, they work well.

I used the repeaters when I needed very accurate repeatable cuts. Again, I have the original version, but I had made a number of changes to get them to be repeatable repeaters. Some of those mods may help with tightening up the new versions or get you to think about ways to get yours where you want.

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=4390

And yeah, there’s a lot of metal twirling around.
Nice work Jack.

I never really gave the repeater a chance when I first bought it, it seemed cumbersome and flimsy hanging there under the plywood. I went with my design because it was light, rigid and easy to set. I started off with another brand of track saw (as well as a home-made guide of hardboard and a fence) so was used to making a pencil mark on either side of the sheet and then lining up the edge of the ACE with the marks. I have a steel rule 39" long that I use with a rule stop to get consistent uniform marks on the sheet, very quick and easy to do. I use the same system with the EZ Square except that I only mark the near edge, set the ACE on the mark, move the stop on the extended square until it hits the LH end of the sheet and tighten it down - I can then cut as many identical length parts as I need. I'd looked at adding a scale to the square, but the fit of the pivot screws was to loose to give repeatable zeroes, came up with the idea of boring/reaming through one of the holes and replacing the threaded rod with a shoulder bolt but never really followed up on that idea - I'd have wound up putting the mark on the part anyway to check the setting on the stop.

I'm trying a couple of modifications to the UEG - first, and I think most important, is a full kerf (heavy plate) saw blade, the one I have to test has a .115" kerf so should track better than the Diablo that I've been using. I also had the idea that an operating fin might help stabilize the travel but I'd have to move the saw on the base because the blade is so far off line - a check with a dial indicator shows that the blade to groove out-of-parallelism (heel) is less than .002" so EZ got that right, the saw itself though is out by over 1/16". The 1/16" is the difference, groove to blade between the two saws that I bought from EZ and also how much the fin is offset from the kerf. If I feel the fin is going to help, I may buy another base and set it up properly.
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