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  #11  
Old 12-26-2010, 12:46 AM
Ken Ken is offline
 
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For a reverse blade try a plywood blade. They are cheap and have a very high tooth count. I would think that this is just about ideal.

There is one more way to do this. I set the base on my saws so that it just barely kisses the edge, no trimming necessary! This also helps when using multiple saws as the point of cut is always indicated properly. I also have one old saw set to cut the edges and it lets me get a second use out of them if they do get messed up after extended use.
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2010, 02:24 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Your little block is a great idea. Simple and good results are almost guaranteed.
Just so I understand, if you chose to lower the blade in your saw to mark the edge whether you reverse the blade or not, is to do this without the saw running so just the rotation of the blade on the edge as you push the saw is marking the plastic. Correct?
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2010, 05:31 PM
Dino Dino is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
Your little block is a great idea. Simple and good results are almost guaranteed.
Just so I understand, if you chose to lower the blade in your saw to mark the edge whether you reverse the blade or not, is to do this without the saw running so just the rotation of the blade on the edge as you push the saw is marking the plastic. Correct?
If you are lazez like me, you just use the blade as is.
No problem if you only cut the plastic for 1"
You get the right mark including the "play" of the blade...if any.

Now we have to think about a common cutting line with ALL systems.
If we make the cutting line a standard 1/2" from the rtack we can have exact placement without worryingabout the edges..

We can make tools without many adjustements that we don't needed anymore and we can use many of our excisting tools to due many other tasks because we know the cutting line.

I was thinking today about all the squares that we talked before.
The original ez square
The current miter square.
the articulating square that is on hold for a new extrusion to be delivered.
and the linear scale square that again is on hold to be attached to the new extrusion.

Knowning and sharing the same cutting line in all systems makes things easier and practical to mark.

like before, when we discover one simple solution we open the doors to many more to come.

Wondering if we can rename it to the ez hydra tool system.
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  #14  
Old 12-26-2010, 06:35 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Dino,

Maybe we need to recommend a set distance from the first slot in the base to the blade. That should solve the problem.

Burt
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  #15  
Old 12-26-2010, 07:46 PM
Dino Dino is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burt View Post
Dino,

Maybe we need to recommend a set distance from the first slot in the base to the blade. That should solve the problem.

Burt
Burt,
we may have to modify the mold for the smart base and/or
make new bases.
The next ez task to find the golden line.
No problemo.

tx
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  #16  
Old 12-26-2010, 07:58 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
If you are lazez like me, you just use the blade as is.
No problem if you only cut the plastic for 1"
You get the right mark including the "play" of the blade...if any.

Now we have to think about a common cutting line with ALL systems.
If we make the cutting line a standard 1/2" from the rtack we can have exact placement without worryingabout the edges..

We can make tools without many adjustements that we don't needed anymore and we can use many of our excisting tools to due many other tasks because we know the cutting line.

I was thinking today about all the squares that we talked before.
The original ez square
The current miter square.
the articulating square that is on hold for a new extrusion to be delivered.
and the linear scale square that again is on hold to be attached to the new extrusion.

Knowning and sharing the same cutting line in all systems makes things easier and practical to mark.

like before, when we discover one simple solution we open the doors to many more to come.

Wondering if we can rename it to the ez hydra tool system.
I hadn't thought of it that way. At least for saws you are setting the distance from blade to the dado in the Base when you mount it. So why not have a fixed distance on that and then edges that maybe you just kiss a tiny bit off when you first use them. It'd require more accuracy in Base mounting but less fussing when installing new edges. Sounds simple when you think about it but probably not so simple if you guys have to starting thinking about new molding tooling
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  #17  
Old 12-26-2010, 11:59 PM
Randal Stevenson Randal Stevenson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken View Post
For a reverse blade try a plywood blade. They are cheap and have a very high tooth count. I would think that this is just about ideal.
I am not sure of the plywood blade, I think you would still trim it with the carbide teeth of the normal blade, due to different kerf.

I've known people who have used the reverse blade before with plastic. They say it works well, but I have never publicly seen it recommended since it is on the side they braze the carbide on. I have had some carbide break off of regular (with the saw) blades before in the normal direction with new 2x material.
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  #18  
Old 12-27-2010, 11:17 AM
jswingchun jswingchun is offline
 
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Would it be possible to include some sort of calibration device with the smartbase that would sit in the slot of the base and then touch the blade so every user would have the same distance between slot and blade? Then make the edges match that distance? No trimming the edges. Seems like that would make it easy to make sure the blade was properly aligned as well.

Last edited by jswingchun; 12-27-2010 at 11:22 AM.
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  #19  
Old 12-27-2010, 01:05 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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J

This has actually been discussed and is being considered.
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  #20  
Old 12-27-2010, 02:01 PM
jswingchun jswingchun is offline
 
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I guess the downside would be if someone wanted to change to a different blade thickness after installing the base. You would have to move the base to compensate, and that wouldn't be an EZ thing. Maybe you guys have some brilliant idea kicking around for that.
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