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Old 08-29-2016, 11:17 AM
mrstop mrstop is offline
 
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Default Solution for beveling the "long side"?

I need to run a bevel on the "long side" of a 1x6 (the 6" side). This would be an easy job on a table saw. I have a MFT, track, UEG, and EZ1. However, I'm struggling to figure out a solution for this one.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:46 AM
Dino Dino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrstop View Post
I need to run a bevel on the "long side" of a 1x6 (the 6" side). This would be an easy job on a table saw. I have a MFT, track, UEG, and EZ1. However, I'm struggling to figure out a solution for this one.
How long is the piece;
do you have a straight side;

1st idea...
secure the wood.
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Old 08-29-2016, 01:38 PM
mrstop mrstop is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
How long is the piece;
do you have a straight side;

1st idea...
secure the wood.
My current project pieces range from ~16" to 48". That said I have had to do longer pieces on the table saw on occasion.
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Old 08-29-2016, 01:41 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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and how large a bevel? I'm guessing your wood is longer than your track. If it's small route it on. If it's larger how about using your UEG and setting the bevel angle on your saw. You'll probably have to index off the opposite side you're cutting on. So you'll have to flip your saw around, and then make a spacer to put the wood in the correct place. Tape the spacer to your UEG fence.
You could also do it in stages, by cutting and moving, on your EZ1 but you'll see the stop start points.
But, ya, in the time I wrote this I could have done the bevel on my TS and would have.
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:16 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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What degree bevel and how long is the cut?

I can cut a bevel up to 47 with my circular saw and EZ guide rail (I have 124" of track). If the angle is greater than that, I clamp it to the work bench and do it with either a hand plane or handheld power planer. If I have several pieces to cut, I can do it on the router table with a pattern bit and angle jig or with a jointer. Or, like Sean suggested, just use the table saw.

There are usually several ways to do a task. It depends a lot on available tools, skills, and personal style.

Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:59 PM
kenk kenk is offline
 
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I've not used my EZ Smart tracks to cut bevels myself, but the basic idea is to use the second rail guide in the Smart Base so the saw blade set to bevel is offset enough to NOT cut into the rail.

From what others have said, the bevel cut tends to be cleaner than a 90 degree cut, so it can - and should - be done without the white plastic anti-chip edge.

I've also read that using the saw on its second rail guide tends to make it a little "tipsy". Some have made jigs to help reduce that tipsy feeling. Others have said that running a few practice bevel cuts gave them the knack to do the cuts without any jigs.

I've noticed that some use the "other" side of the EZ One's rail for 45 degree bevel cuts - which of course will put a 45 degree cut into the cross rails. Personally, I don't think I'd want to use multiple different bevel cuts on my cross rails, so I suppose it wouldn't hurt them.

Rather than bevel cutting on your EZ One, I'd recommend you just remove the rail and use it off the EZ One - on a sacrificial surface. Of course you'd have to get to EZ Smart Clamps, but those don't cost much, and it adds to your capability.

As others have said, let us know how you end up cutting the bevels.

Ken K.

Last edited by kenk; 08-29-2016 at 11:01 PM.
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  #7  
Old 08-30-2016, 01:43 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
How long is the piece;
do you have a straight side;

1st idea...
secure the wood.
sorry,
I don't see the ez-1.
use a sacrificial piece and make your cut.

tx
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  #8  
Old 08-31-2016, 01:55 PM
aaronp aaronp is offline
 
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I've posted this before, but someone new may take something from it.

I didn't have room to keep both the TS and the EZ1, and I do a lot of bevels, as my projects are a bit more on the arty side, so desperation led me to make this. It uses a multiform table I wasn't using much, attached to a clamping table with a couple brass door hinges. Some rods below control the bevel precision. It's tricky to calibrate, but it does work well. Being able to separate EZ1 work from the bevel work, so that you don't have to keep switching things back and forth, has been worth the effort for me.

Most likely overkill for your project, but food for thought.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2016, 09:09 AM
mrstop mrstop is offline
 
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Thanks for the suggestions. I have been stuck on some other jobs, but hope to get back to this one shortly...
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