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  #1  
Old 07-10-2014, 12:41 PM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
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Default Video for the clamping table

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCzkXRBH3fc

Excellent video for the clamping table. That table really rocks! Shows the versatility of the table very well.

I liked the homemade wooden stops. The round one is neat. When you show some homemade things it makes the video seem like it's it more for the average woodworker not just to push a bunch of further ridiculously expensive accessories like some companies do. Still undecided about whether I like the "no talking" videos. This one does demonstrate a number of different things that can be done with the table. Perhaps talking would have interferred with the message.
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:18 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is online now
 
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I like the use of parts of the dual connector to make those versatile stops. I hadn't thought of that...
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  #3  
Old 07-13-2014, 08:46 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Still seems to me that the upside guide rail should be set flush. Not sure why you'd want to give up the real estate it takes up otherwise. Also set the SME's around the perimeter flush with the faces of the top. It'd give you better support when clamping your material on that edge.
Is peeling dry glue like watching paint dry?
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  #4  
Old 07-13-2014, 10:57 PM
Tmyoung Tmyoung is offline
 
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Default rail placement

The guide rails above the work surface acts as a squaring corner. Being above the table gives a very strong edge/corner to square up on. It works great. Although my table got damaged in shipping (Eureka contacted me right away and shipped out a replacement already) I put it together and have been using it non stop. The corner is perfectly square and strong enough to take the stress on hammering tight rail and stile door frames. The stops they supply would not hold up to the stress i have been giving the raised rails.

Just my two cents from hands on use.
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Old 07-13-2014, 11:40 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmyoung View Post
The guide rails above the work surface acts as a squaring corner. Being above the table gives a very strong edge/corner to square up on. It works great. Although my table got damaged in shipping (Eureka contacted me right away and shipped out a replacement already) I put it together and have been using it non stop. The corner is perfectly square and strong enough to take the stress on hammering tight rail and stile door frames. The stops they supply would not hold up to the stress i have been giving the raised rails.

Just my two cents from hands on use.
Tom, if the guide rails were flush w/the table top, and a person used longish pieces of the raised connectors slid into the grooves of the guide rails to make the 90˚ corner, do you think that would work as well as having the raised guide rails? (Just thinking out loud about how one might have all options........)
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Rick
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Old 07-14-2014, 06:04 AM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is online now
 
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Rick,

Think you are on to something...
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  #7  
Old 07-14-2014, 01:16 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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If it was flush it wouldn't even need to be a guide rail extrusion. All you'd need is something with a slot for the raised connector. Could be an SME. Could you trust a square fence of raised connectors to stay square every time, especially pushing against them?
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:27 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
If it was flush it wouldn't even need to be a guide rail extrusion. All you'd need is something with a slot for the raised connector. Could be an SME. Could you trust a square fence of raised connectors to stay square every time, especially pushing against them?

Sean,
great observation re. the unknown of exact 90˚ repeatability of the raised connectors.

In the pics are a couple of alternatives.

Pic one shows two options:
-a square, indexed in one slot and clamped in the other slot- fast/cheap/repeatable;
-the affair next to the square (the underside is shown in pic 2) is a milled piece of wood: tight-riding 'fins', fore and aft of the connector-clamp (milled to the width of the track grooves), keep the wood parallel to the track groove. Requires some precise milling to make work correctly (no problem w/the SSRK- I'd mill a long piece, then cut to length, yielding a bunch of those buggers);
-pic three shows a simple plywood square (my 'universal-aligning-plate') clamped on the track, set by a speed square. Again: fast/cheap/repeatable. (The 'universal-aligning-plate' allows angle set-ups, also.)

I'm sure there are other solutions. I, too, prefer having the track flush w/the table top.

Rick
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2014, 02:04 AM
Tmyoung Tmyoung is offline
 
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Rick, sure the track could be flush. It wouldn't take much to make it that way. But right now it works great. No extra fiddling around. No extra stops. Just a very easy to use glue and clamping table. You could modify the heck out of this thing so it does all kinds of cool tricks. Think that's what is extra great about Eureka products. 2But as a straight forward clamping table this thing is great.
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:42 AM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tmyoung View Post
Rick, sure the track could be flush. It wouldn't take much to make it that way. But right now it works great. No extra fiddling around. No extra stops. Just a very easy to use glue and clamping table. You could modify the heck out of this thing so it does all kinds of cool tricks. Think that's what is extra great about Eureka products. 2But as a straight forward clamping table this thing is great.
Got it.
Thanks, Tom,
Rick
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