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  #11  
Old 03-04-2016, 06:14 PM
jbrewton jbrewton is offline
 
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Thanks Mike, I will try that if the bevel showed up again. I also check my miter saw that I have had for over 6 years and found that it was also not square. I was doing more 2x4 construction so it didn't matter much. Now that I am cutting more plywood, i want to be more precise.
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  #12  
Old 03-08-2016, 04:54 PM
jbrewton jbrewton is offline
 
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Mike, When you "ride it over" with sand paper are you say to sand the cut edge (Side) of the ACE? or the Bottom of the ACE?
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  #13  
Old 03-08-2016, 11:28 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is online now
 
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He means the bottom.
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  #14  
Old 03-09-2016, 10:54 AM
jbrewton jbrewton is offline
 
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Thanks Dik.
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2016, 12:58 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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I had the same issues early on with material wanting to move, unwanted beveled cuts, and such. I made just about all the adjustments that have been suggested here and a couple more. Happy to say the advice helped.

Some other helps I found elsewhere in this forum: 1) try a full kerf blade, it won't deflect as easily, 2) use plywood inserts on your pbb, increased surface contact = more friction to hold material in place, 3) apply strips of sandpaper or other non-slip material to the underside of your track, 4) ensure the track is laying completely flat against your material especially when the thickness of your material changes. I often have to tweak mine when going between plywood and 2"X when building a shed or decking a floor.

It's a diverse tool with a unique learning curve but it's definitely worth the effort!
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  #16  
Old 03-14-2016, 11:00 AM
jbrewton jbrewton is offline
 
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Thanks Tracedfar. I have started using inserts and found that helps a lot. If the blade does not indicated full kerf, what should I assume? using Diablo's from Home depot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-7-...760R/100627136
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  #17  
Old 03-15-2016, 12:05 AM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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I'm always happy to help, as others have done for me. As for Diabolo blades, they are thin kerf but many use them with good results. Some prefer a thin kerf because there is less drag on the saw.

Regardless of kerf, a sharp blade is key. I used to buy throw-away blades. Finally, bought a Forest. Not only does it hold it's edge longer but I can have it sharpened when it doesn't. After several months of almost daily use, it still slices through plywood like a hot knife through butter. I'd be on a second or possibly third throw-away blade. That being said, on my miter saw and portable table saw, I do use Diabolo blades, for reasons stated above, and am satisfied.

Experiment. Find what works for you.
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  #18  
Old 03-20-2016, 03:59 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is online now
 
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While reconfiguring my EZ-One, I was reminded of something that has not been mentioned here. When setting up the bridge, always make sure that the top of the bridge mounting platforms (the parts that fasten to the bench) are about 3/4" below the top surface of the bench. This starts the whole thing out as a parallelogram and makes it much easier to lift the bridge with the handle. You do lose some height, but the closer the top of the mounting platforms are to the top of the bench, the harder it is to lift the bridge. When they are flush with the top, it is nearly impossible to lift the bridge with just the handle.
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  #19  
Old 03-21-2016, 01:26 AM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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Thanks, Dik! It's often those little details that either prevent or create the biggest headaches. Great tip!
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  #20  
Old 03-21-2016, 09:42 AM
jbrewton jbrewton is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
While reconfiguring my EZ-One, I was reminded of something that has not been mentioned here. When setting up the bridge, always make sure that the top of the bridge mounting platforms (the parts that fasten to the bench) are about 3/4" below the top surface of the bench. This starts the whole thing out as a parallelogram and makes it much easier to lift the bridge with the handle. You do lose some height, but the closer the top of the mounting platforms are to the top of the bench, the harder it is to lift the bridge. When they are flush with the top, it is nearly impossible to lift the bridge with just the handle.
Dik,

The set up video says make the mounts should be flush. Is the video incorrect? Is this a case where real world application does not follow the book theory? Thanks for the helpful tip.

John
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