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Old 03-27-2016, 07:56 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Austin, Tx.
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Default Curious.......

I recently did a couple of back-to-back projects that involved lots of SSRK use; made me re-appreciate this nifty contraption.

About the time I was doing these projects, I came across a few older EZ-forum postings expressing frustration/displeasure w/the SSRK. I admit that my usage of the SSRK is fairly simple- I only use the SSRK w/straight bits (primarily, 1/4" solid carbide spiral bit), so set-up and use is super straight forward and quick. If I have a need to use contoured bits, I use them freehand in another router, seeing as how most of them incorporate a guide bearing; and, I don't use super-large bits in the router at all. (If I did, I'd get a nice router table....... )

I've included a pic that shows the basic set-up I use: spacer at the EZ track; material against the spacer; another spacer/holder on the side farthest from the track, pushing it all against the track; butt the routed material against a stop on the front of the EZ-1 (in the pic, I have a spacer between the material and stop); push the material against the EZ-1 stop w/a moveable stop at the other end (in the pic, I show a couple of them: one held in place w/a quick-clamp; the other held in place w/a knob). I've found this procedure to be fast, and it allows me to quickly establish lay-out parameters; using the digital calipers in the pic allows for very precise work.

I am interested in how others do SSRK set-ups. But, I'm more interested to hear the experiences of those who have, or, have had, issues w/the SSRK. Again, my use of the SSRK is along a fairly narrow bandwidth, so I'm hoping, by hearing other's experiences, to broaden my use of the SSRK.

Thanks,
Rick
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:12 AM
Mike Goetzke Mike Goetzke is offline
 
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Rick - many ways to use the SSRK. I copied Burt's method a little while back when building a tall display case that had 5 or 6 shelves that I used dodo joints.

In his method you trap the work piece between two long boards that run perpendicular to the rail (or motion of the router). This helped immensely with positioning of the dodos since you can cut the dado in the trapping boards and use these to line up your board accurately. Make a cut then slide down to the next one.

I'm sure Burt can chime in and reference his picture file to explain this better.


Mike
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2016, 10:57 AM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Goetzke View Post
Rick - many ways to use the SSRK. I copied Burt's method a little while back when building a tall display case that had 5 or 6 shelves that I used dodo joints.

In his method you trap the work piece between two long boards that run perpendicular to the rail (or motion of the router). This helped immensely with positioning of the dodos since you can cut the dado in the trapping boards and use these to line up your board accurately. Make a cut then slide down to the next one.

I'm sure Burt can chime in and reference his picture file to explain this better.


Mike
Good point, Mike. I especially like the idea of routing into the side/scrap pieces to allow them to be indexing marks for each piece.... smart.

I use the perpendicular/under the track method often. As an example, in the pics, you can see I've assembled the slats for outside shutters, under the track. Then, after routing all of the slats on one end, I installed the horiz. cross piece and screwed it in place; flip the assembly around and repeat- one set-up for both routing and assembly.... nice.
Thanks,
Rick
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Last edited by bumpnstump; 03-28-2016 at 11:01 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2016, 01:33 PM
deeraeya deeraeya is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 15
Default SSRK trouble without EZ-one

I received the SSRK recently and was excited to use it for some mortise and tenon applications. I don't have the EZ-one, just the "Smart Table" + square and repeater. No bridge either, so no PBB.

The trouble I had was maintaining solid relationships between the SSRK and the workpiece, particularly because all clamping has to be under the plane of the SSRK base. I ended up doing ok for the mortises by having the workpiece parallel to the track using a spacer, then screwing in blocks to hold things in place.

Tenons I tried to do with the workpiece under the track, but that was also hard because I was doing 2x6 wood and the smart clamps can't hold the 2x6 vertically. One would think that having the 2x6 on the flat under the track would do the job fine (with a bit of chisel cleanup) but I found it very frustrating to set the length of the tenon (end-to-shoulder), mostly because it is hard to find the exact edge of my spiral up-cut bit. So I was having to try to maintain the distances by always clamping the track the right distance back from the end. So many variables and annoying moving the track all the time.

I've looked at Laney's long video on his drawer body jig and that gives some ideas, but there are a few older threads (pre EZ-one) about mortise and tenon, some with links to the previous galleries that are gone. I don't suppose anyone has the originals of those pics. These are the galleries I'm talking about (linked also from the old wiki):

https://sites.google.com/site/ezsmar...e/Home/ez-faqs links to "Mortise and Tenons with the SRK and Limit Stops"
http://eurekazone.com/gallery/EZ-Mor...th-limit-stops

And:

http://eurekazone.com/gallery/How-to...d-tenon-system

The trick seems to be holding the workpiece off the track but in a fixed relationship to the track, and doing it in a way that always remains below the plane of the SSRK. The pics using the EZ-one that people post are great, but using the squaring of the track with the slot-in pieces.

Any ideas welcomed
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  #5  
Old 07-05-2016, 06:51 PM
deeraeya deeraeya is offline
 
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This post has some useful pics and ideas for me to try out:

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showpos...38&postcount=1

I could see adding a stop at the end of the slot to establish a fixed relationship between the setting on the SSRK and the workpiece.

Still interested in setups that leave the track/router in place and allow me to bring the work piece to the setup.
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  #6  
Old 07-05-2016, 08:27 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deeraeya View Post
This post has some useful pics and ideas for me to try out:

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showpos...38&postcount=1

I could see adding a stop at the end of the slot to establish a fixed relationship between the setting on the SSRK and the workpiece.

Still interested in setups that leave the track/router in place and allow me to bring the work piece to the setup.
Went out to the shop and shot a few pics that I hope will address some of your issues. If I get my computer out of the repair shop tomorrow, I'll post a couple ideas that might help. Till then, I'm hoping others who've crossed this bridge will chime in.
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  #7  
Old 07-06-2016, 12:12 AM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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Location: Balko, OK
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There are more experienced guys here than me. I usually only use M&T when repairing furniture or as a feature of a piece. However, I do make my living with my tools and use an EZSmart product nearly everyday. So, here's my two cents.

M&T with the SSRK is easier for me by securing the cut piece to the side of the work bench and the guide rail near the edge of the top. I usually use a spacer between the cut piece and the bench so I don't accidentally cut my bench. And sometimes a spacer on the outside of the piece for extra support of the router base. I also use a chuck extension for larger work. The nice part is that I can rotate the piece to any angle. I suppose with wedged spacers I could do compound angles. Heck, who needs a Leigh FMT when you have the SSRK?

When I need a tenon at the end of a piece that is taller than my bench, I simply lay it down, secure it under the guide rail and use the SSRK as normal. While it's fairly easy this way, I've only had to do it when making bed rails.

If you would rather leave the tool stationary and move the piece through it, a regular router table is the easiest way to go. I love my Incra LS and still use it for frequent smaller jobs.

Last edited by Tracedfar; 07-06-2016 at 12:25 AM.
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2016, 03:34 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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I think tracedfar nailed it; here are the promised pics.

pic one shows initial set up:
-piece of track clamped to a horizontal surface, parallel to the vertical edge (in this case, I'm using EZ track as my vertical surface- any solid material should work); distance from edge allows the SSRK to have freedom of movement- ie. personal preference. Once placed, the track shouldn't be moved;

-speed square, or any other 'stop' that allows quick indexing of material to be tenoned, 90˚ vertical. Once placed, this 'stop' shouldn't be moved;

-sufficient clamps to hold the material to be tenoned, tightly to the vertical surface;

-alignment straight-edge to align material flush with the top of the table/bottom of the SSRK. To use: loosen clamps; abut material to the 90˚ stop; slide material up till it touches alignment straight-edge; clamp material.

pic two shows the SSRK in place, having been set up, and ready to go; also, a stop is placed on the track, along with a removable spacer. Note also the stops on the SSRK, holding the SSRK adjustment bar- these stops will be adjusted during the routing process to allow the SSRK to move as needed.

pic three shows initial cuts on the outside and right side of the tenon. The plan is to rout these two areas, spin the material 180˚, and rout the remaining two areas (pic 4 shows progress).

By utilizing the stops on the SSRK, and the stop/spacer on the track, one can quickly rout the two areas and always return to initial set-up for the next cuts to be the same, as well as consistent one piece to the next. It might take a bit of thinking it thru once you have the set-up in place re. which stops move, and when; same with the track-spacer. (Let me know if it isn't clear.)

Pic 5 shows the tenon starting to take shape.

HTH,
Rick
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  #9  
Old 07-06-2016, 05:38 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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Good pics, Rick! Thanks!
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  #10  
Old 07-06-2016, 05:51 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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nice job R.
For multiple pieces. I put the wood under the track.
For one piece at a tine...you can set 4 stops and do it without
reversing the piece?
A test run required here.

another thing is a balcony that keeps the ssrk more stable.
I Had all the pictures in the "lost" photo gallery.
so many ways that we have to start allover again.

tx
d
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