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  #21  
Old 02-18-2018, 01:14 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Not quite understanding this, unless there was an older model that just went up and down - but I understand that the existing bridge (B300?) adjusts, within limits, for different thicknesses due to the pivoting action , and that greater adjustments can be made by sliding the UHMW brackets up and down using the slotted holes.
tom.
The slots are for bevels and height adjustments.
I never had to adjust for height. If needed we can make 2 holes and re-position the bridge?

I like the existing ez-one with everything.
The Bridge is a lifetime tool.
the 3/4" ( very expensive) plastic has memory and cannot get destroyed.
the extrusions are multi-task and they can be used in many forms.
You can easily drop in any tool.
You have all the cross cut and mitering capacity needed.
safety on tapered cuts with the piece trapped in 4 sides.
The ONLY thing that the ez-1 needs is to be easily and safely transform
into any stationary like tool. tablesaw, jointer, sander etc etc...


WE have it done but not 100% safe. I need a full week to try 20+ ideas...
some from me and some from the ez gurus and guys.
Here we need a Bridge that works in vertically.
This way we can be exact with all our measurements...
while keeping the open design by using drop ins.

I sold 100 feet of SSME and another 100 feet of other extrusions to a cnc shop.
they made a top with unlimited number of zeroing points.
Now they drop the parts and they don't have to worry about the typical issues with cnc tables. Tooling gets worn, saw dust gets in the way and exact duplication is only good for few parts.
by having an open top grid with each square ( drop-in) having it's own zero point...you always have exact repeatability...
I don't think we need this but this is an example of the ez-one open design.

If we get the existing bridge to work on vertical mode....why not?
some guys like it like that...What I like is to setup another shop with all ez tools
and make old and new tools using EZ ONLY.
this way I will be forced to keep coming up with more and better ez setups.
A Dual SSRK with one or two routers and with one or two saws in a large or multiple bases in one setup can cut-srtips-clean the edges and make grooves the same time. You put all strips ( 96" long) side by side and you can use a sliding bridge with rack and pinion...each full turn =1"
and you cross cut 100's of parts in few minutes.

We try the same with in a cnc shop with 100K cnc table....only to have to rework all pieces due to accumulating errors.

I hope to find the strength and time to go back and have fun using ez setups.


tx
d
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  #22  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:27 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Dino View Post
tom.
The slots are for bevels and height adjustments.
I never had to adjust for height. If needed we can make 2 holes and re-position the bridge?

tx
d
Thanks Dino.

At this point, I'm breaking down the plywood using the UEG, sometimes crosscutting with the Cabinet Square but mostly on an MFT top with a fence and bench dogs. I'm now looking at getting the B300 Bridge set up, and need to mount the ends to the MFT extrusions with an adapter - as I'm mostly working sheet goods, it's good to know that I don't need to build any adjustment into the adapters and just need to make sure that the track is square to the fence so that my dadoes are square. I had a discussion with Rick (bumpnstump) a while back about pinning the brackets to the apron of my PBB so that it would stay square, will be a little more complicated now as the adapter/bracket assembly needs to come off and on when I'm not using the SSRK.
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  #23  
Old 02-18-2018, 08:49 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Not sure if I'm tracking with what's being discussed, but I'll throw this out there......

Right after getting into EZ, I realized my need for moveable bridges, both vertically and horizontally. Bit of messing around with a couple of EZ extrusions gave me a simple and accurate solution.

pic 1 shows a piece of HDPE plastic with a section of EZ track mounted into it; piece of "L" alum at the bottom. This plastic piece allows the bridge assembly to travel in a horizontal direction.

pic two shows a wooden bridge mounted into the part shown in pic 1. The actual bridge component is attached to a piece of EZ double extrusion that drops into the EZ track. It is then tightened with the central knob. This allows the bridge to travel in a vertical direction.

pic 3 shows that same wooden bridge raised 2 inches. Note that the locking knob has been repositioned in the lower location due to the height. To raise front and back bridge assemblies the same amount, insert a desired-height spacer between the bottom of the double extrusion and the piece of "L" aluminum at the bottom of the EZ track. Once raised, to make the track work correctly (the back end will want to fall down if it can't set on the table), place the spacer under the EZ track that is connecting the bridge together (ie the one the saw rides on), right near the rear bridge.

pic 4 shows another shot of the horiz. and vert. assemblies. In that pic, notice the lock-out pin underneath the right-hand knob. Once you set this assembly up and dial it in to be at 90˚, drill for that lock-out pin into the mounting extrusions and you'll be able to reset it in the same place every time after you've moved it.

If you need to remove the track, but want to leave all of the bridge assemblies in place, I would consider swapping out the EZ supplied connectors that attach the bridge arms to the track and use EZ double connector extrusion instead. Simplifies the task big-time, plus, you can use knobbed fasteners instead of looking for a wrench to undo the currently used nuts.

If you want to lift the track and the bridges out, but leave the horiz. sliders in place, simply undo their center tightening knobs and lift the track and bridge assembly out as a unit. When you go to replace it, it will already be set to the alignment it had before you removed it.

If you want to remove the whole kit-n-kaboodle, undo the two knobs on the horiz. sliding part and slide everything out (track/bridges/horiz holders). If you set it all up with lock-out pins, it will all go back where it came from before you removed it; but, if you don't use lock-out pins, using the horiz. sliding mounts makes setting the track/fence to 90˚ super easy and fast.

Where this really shines for me is on my PBB (personal power bench) which is simply 4 sides of EZ track, bottom side out. Sometimes I want the bridges to be on the PBB to allow longer cuts; other times I want the bridges 90˚ to the long direction. Being able to slide the bridge assemblies in/out quickly allows me to do so.

HTH,
Rick
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Bridge- mounting assembly.jpg (97.7 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg Bridge- w:bridge mount bottomed out.jpg (94.0 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg Bridge- w:bridge mount raised 2%22.jpg (94.0 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg bridges- sliding mounts.jpg (93.8 KB, 35 views)

Last edited by bumpnstump; 02-18-2018 at 08:53 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02-19-2018, 01:34 AM
Tw218 Tw218 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 107
Default same idea Rick

several years ago I used the double connector like you
Attached Images
File Type: jpg image.jpg (96.1 KB, 40 views)
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  #25  
Old 02-19-2018, 08:18 AM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Tw218 View Post
several years ago I used the double connector like you
Your set-up looks intriguing- any chance you could give us a 'tour' of it?
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  #26  
Old 02-19-2018, 11:36 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpnstump View Post
Not sure if I'm tracking with what's being discussed, but I'll throw this out there......

Where this really shines for me is on my PBB (personal power bench) which is simply 4 sides of EZ track, bottom side out. Sometimes I want the bridges to be on the PBB to allow longer cuts; other times I want the bridges 90˚ to the long direction. Being able to slide the bridge assemblies in/out quickly allows me to do so.

HTH,
Rick
Rick,

As always, well thought out and nicely engineered. From reading the posts, it seems that I'm overcomplicating my project (as always). Not needing vertical adjustment - other than if I'm working on a part that's thicker than the "rise" of the track - makes life a lot simpler. When I planned to make a PBB, the plan was to have t-tracks embedded in the top parallel to the track so that the fence at 90 could be easily aligned/realigned to the track. When using the MFT top, using bench dog to align the track makes the operation trivial - the rows of holes are perpendicular so a fence aligned by the holes in the X-axis is automatically square to the track aligned by the holes in the Y-axis. I think all that I need to do is make an adapter to marry the bridge bracket to the extrusion along the outside edges of the top - like your PBB, the extrusions are on all 4 sides so the track can be installed in either orientation, making it possible to cut a dado along the height of a panel rather than across. While I guess it's possible to build stops into the extrusion so that the brackets return to the same position each time, the ease with which the track can be squared up - slide the brackets into the extrusion, attach the track and lower to the table and then just move the brackets until the edge of the track contacts the bench dogs - makes them unnecessary. I think that I can come up with an adapter that uses the lower slot in the extrusion to attach the bridge to the top, and a surface that locates vertically to the extrusion - I should still then be able to have the vertical adjustment provided by the slots in the bracket if needed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4975.jpg (96.3 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg MFT3 Profile Measurements.jpg (84.6 KB, 24 views)
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  #27  
Old 02-19-2018, 12:29 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Rick,

As always, well thought out and nicely engineered. From reading the posts, it seems that I'm overcomplicating my project (as always). Not needing vertical adjustment - other than if I'm working on a part that's thicker than the "rise" of the track - makes life a lot simpler. When I planned to make a PBB, the plan was to have t-tracks embedded in the top parallel to the track so that the fence at 90 could be easily aligned/realigned to the track. When using the MFT top, using bench dog to align the track makes the operation trivial - the rows of holes are perpendicular so a fence aligned by the holes in the X-axis is automatically square to the track aligned by the holes in the Y-axis. I think all that I need to do is make an adapter to marry the bridge bracket to the extrusion along the outside edges of the top - like your PBB, the extrusions are on all 4 sides so the track can be installed in either orientation, making it possible to cut a dado along the height of a panel rather than across. While I guess it's possible to build stops into the extrusion so that the brackets return to the same position each time, the ease with which the track can be squared up - slide the brackets into the extrusion, attach the track and lower to the table and then just move the brackets until the edge of the track contacts the bench dogs - makes them unnecessary. I think that I can come up with an adapter that uses the lower slot in the extrusion to attach the bridge to the top, and a surface that locates vertically to the extrusion - I should still then be able to have the vertical adjustment provided by the slots in the bracket if needed.
When I set up my brother-in-law's EZ cutting station, I made the bridges to auto-align, indexing off the top of their attachment assembly. See the pic, where the top of the bridge cantilevers out over the top of the ply/B2B. This set up looks similar to the extrusion profile you showed.
Often, he needs the bridge assembly out of his way, and this makes it easy for him to slide the bridge in and out of it's mounting plate. I wanted to keep his set up simple, so opted not to make his bridge vertically raise-able.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Byron and Mel EZ track-1.jpg (105.6 KB, 27 views)

Last edited by bumpnstump; 02-19-2018 at 02:02 PM.
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  #28  
Old 02-19-2018, 01:52 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Rick,

Yes, something just like that. Thinking about a piece of aluminum to sit against the face, with a tab in the back that would sit on top of the extrusion at "B". Shamelessly stealing an idea from your photos, also put a ledge at the bottom for the bracket to sit on, the combination of the two would self-align the top of the bracket with the top of the work surface. The width of the bolt groove at the bottom is .33", so a nice loose fit for the 5/16" attachment bolts; installing the brackets would be a matter of starting with the ledge on top of the extrusion, fitting the bolt heads into the slot and then sliding it into place. If the 5/16" bolts work for the EZ bracket too, I still have the ability to raise the bracket to give me more height under the track if needed, but then it would drop right back into the basic position, flush to the works surface - and the bottom of the bracket resting on the bottom ledge would have the added benefit of squaring the bracket to the work surface.
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  #29  
Old 02-19-2018, 02:02 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Rick,

Yes, something just like that. Thinking about a piece of aluminum to sit against the face, with a tab in the back that would sit on top of the extrusion at "B". Shamelessly stealing an idea from your photos, also put a ledge at the bottom for the bracket to sit on, the combination of the two would self-align the top of the bracket with the top of the work surface. The width of the bolt groove at the bottom is .33", so a nice loose fit for the 5/16" attachment bolts; installing the brackets would be a matter of starting with the ledge on top of the extrusion, fitting the bolt heads into the slot and then sliding it into place. If the 5/16" bolts work for the EZ bracket too, I still have the ability to raise the bracket to give me more height under the track if needed, but then it would drop right back into the basic position, flush to the works surface - and the bottom of the bracket resting on the bottom ledge would have the added benefit of squaring the bracket to the work surface.
Tom, it all sounds great! Pics of the finished product?
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  #30  
Old 02-19-2018, 03:22 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by bumpnstump View Post
Tom, it all sounds great! Pics of the finished product?
Let's see - I have a tall cabinet for the bathroom, needs the doors made and then finish, finishing up the cabinet under my router table........ Hopefully my eye infection has cleared up and the doctor will sign me off tomorrow to go back out to the shop. But I need to work this in because the next build has dadoes everywhere so I need to get the SSRK set up. This is a "fill in" project for glue and finish drying.
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