The Track Saw Forum  

Go Back   The Track Saw Forum > The Track Saw Forum > RipSizer

Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-14-2018, 09:14 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 267

Mine didn't come with any scale markings on the arm, guess it was an early model?

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5012.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	93.2 KB
ID:	7419

I've always adjusted the rip width by leaning the assembly on the front arm - for consistency, this always keeps the saw base tight to the same arm - and just measure from the fence to the tip of a tooth. However, as Dino demonstrated in one of his EZ1 videos, I have some blocks of commonly used widths and set them against the fence and then butt the teeth against the edge - this has given real consistent results.

One thing I did do was move the orange handle from outside the fence to inside the fence, and made it adjustable. For me, this seems to help when making wider rips as I'm able to "pull" the fence tight to the edge of the plywood. Just seemed to be more ergonomic when reaching across on the wide rips to have the handle out there rather than under me, I feel that it gives me more control.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5045.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	96.3 KB
ID:	7421

I just drilled the original hole all the way through and added a short section of connector extrusion.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5043.jpg
Views:	61
Size:	90.4 KB
ID:	7420
Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2018, 10:31 AM
davehodge davehodge is offline
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Southern Oregon Coast. Brookings Or.
Posts: 18

Tom I like your idea but would maybe use a knob at each end then no tools needed!����
Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2018, 12:08 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 267


I looked at that on my initial pass at the change - my original idea using some hardware I had lying around - but it was a little fussy so I went with the through bolt.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5041.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	93.3 KB
ID:	7422

I used a threaded hex connector thinking that I wanted the handle a little higher but it turned out to be better at the original height.

Doesn't take too long to loosen and retighten a couple of Philips screws, and it's not as if I'm constantly changing the position of the handle.

I haven't really had a chance to use it that much since I made the change (it really is intended for use when I'm ripping base cabinet sides, the original handle position was OK for narrow rips), but dry runs on a piece of plywood confirm that it seems to be more comfortable for me. I relocated the saw on the base - EZ did the original installation which was off by > 1/16" - so that the fin now lines up with the saw kerf, so I'm hoping that this helps too.
Reply With Quote
Old 09-14-2018, 01:17 PM
tofu tofu is offline
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 654

Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
Here is a pic of my UEG with the blade all the way against the fence. Triangles mean nothing.
Looks like yours is calibrated to the blade, and wasser's is calibrated to the triangle

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...
Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2018, 07:32 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Jersey Shore (Not Seaside!)
Posts: 191

No matter what, it's just easier to attach you own marker.
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -3. The time now is 05:55 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.