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Old 07-23-2017, 12:15 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 271

I assumed that since i was newer and hadn't been an old time contributor my response was being moderated and I was waiting for it to get approved and just suddenly show up.

Who knew it would simply have vanished? I will try to remember my original list of suggestions and repost it now. Hopefully it will go through this time.

The Base:
There are a few issues right off the bat that upset me about the base. The price point is too high to simply buy one for each saw that comes through my shop. FWIW, it may even cost more that some of the saws I have brought through my shop. It is not conveniently transferred between saws, and once you snap those alignment pins off it is a major pain in the anatomy to affix it to a new saw. It it also configured in such a way that makes it difficult to connect to the narrower side of the existing saw base plate, leaving one with a side that is a little bit floppy. In a perfect world I would like a re-attachable one not unlike Kreg or Bora etc. One improvement could be to have 2 fins aligned, one at the front and one at the back such that a straight edge could quickly align the saw blade to them. In addition that would allow the fins to actually be usable since on mine the fin (even though I followes the directions quite carefully is way off from the blade and simply will not enter the kerf because of it.). The fins should be available in different standard blade withs to accomodate thin kerf and full kerf etc. The saw should be cradled in the base with set screws that can micro adjust it into place before final attachment. It should also be able to handle a minor fall, <4' without breaking. The plastic riser that supposedly offers offcut side zero clearance is also a weak piece. Perhaps a different material or a different cutting method would make it better. But even a cradle that simply held a block of mdf that could be setscrew adjusted up to the blade and tweaked over time would be a better solution.

The ACE's
I like that these provide hold-down capability. However, the method to cut them seems tweaky at best. In the several that I have gone through so far, the sawblade hitting them backwards or forwards was more likely to chip chunks out of them than to cleanly cut a nice alignment. With them not being dead on straight and such, as well as not laying the same with as well as without weight on them makes them less useful for "cutting to a line" than advertised. I would love to see them become a thick solid piece not unlike an extension to the track from a more sacrificial material. In addition, if the piece were wider, past the blade let's say. and longer than the track, one could visually sight though the opening to cut on a line, and in the process eliminate the silly plastic riser as the offcut side zero clearance. Regardless, I would still like the underside surface to help hold down the wood to avoid slippage while cutting.

Cabinet maker
I love the cabinet maker, in concept. However, the fact that it is tweaky to get dead on 90 and maintain it. For the way I use it there is 1. no reason to ever remove it, and 2. no reason for it ever to not be set to 90... ever. I have thought that 2 strategically placed holes in the track itself that could hold a pair of pins could provide for a hard detentes to setting the 90 and a third could make for a 45 and so forth if that were desired.
There should also be a concentric extension stop block for reproduceable cuts. The current repeaters are, at best, a suggestion. Between the flex, the angle. the tiny finger and the lack of alignment to the actual fence do not make for high accruacy for cabinet panels. If there were an extension that could provide story-stick capabilities that would fit inline with the fence of the cabinet maker square that would work better. It should be possible to provide the same reproduceable accuracy with this tool as with the UEG.
So far, with the limited times of my use of this tool it performs as accurately as advertised. I can't really come up with any suggestions for it.
I do not own any of the router stuff, or the tables, and related tools. So I can't come up with any suggestions for them.

I would like to see a simple crosscut box using a short piece of track but hard connected to a fence at 90 and perhaps 45 for cutting face frames and door frames.

I think that is all I had in the original post, but if I forgot anything, and I can remember it I will make another post later.
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:03 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,318

Here is my experience with the anti chip edges. They hold the track up off your material, when you push or clamp the track down they splay out a little. So if you trim your edges with the track clamped down and then release the track it springs up a little and away from your cut line. I clamp my track down about 5% of the time, it's too slow to have to clamp. Since I don't clamp and the edges spring if I apply different pressure on the track when I cut the edges move differently.
I also found that when your sliding the track on your material the edges will shift a little in the slot, then when you cut you shave a little off, do that a few times and your edges no longer indicate the cut line.
IMO the edges need to be rigid. I now use a cut line indicator, a block under my saw and no anti chip edges. Was thinking about making solid edges like Dik tried but haven't got there yet. That way I wouldn't need an indicator, one less thing.

If EZ is thinking about changing edge design don't do anything that adds additional thickness to the track or no 7-1/4" saw will cut through 2x

I think that EZ-101 by Dino section is set up so only Dino can post to it, so no responses.

Originally Posted by Dino View Post
Sean and crew...
anything that makes ez better is welcomed.
Especially from Sean.

Sean, the last mold that we designed and made for the edges was to slide in and out easily but when the track is on top of the materials the movement stops.
Please, try once again using a good-flat material support.
But at the same time we're looking into solid edges and even edges that are similar to other systems. Nothing is off the table.

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Old 07-23-2017, 07:26 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Balko, OK
Posts: 230

My experience with my portable setup is the same as Sean9c. It's why I'm considering upgrading to a Journeyman. Of course, hauling around a saw table pretty much defeats my original purpose for going with a track saw system.

I was able to overcome this on my PBB because of the fixed bridge and a fixed measuring tape on a fixed fence all squared up and regularly checked.
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