The Track Saw Forum  

Go Back   The Track Saw Forum > The Track Saw Forum > Package design advice

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #51  
Old 02-11-2018, 02:10 PM
Dino Dino is offline
Master Carpenter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 5,050
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Actually, since the cut line is on the motor side of the blade and the blade is fastened against the flange, the edge of the cut doesn't change in relation to the desired cut line. Except for different overhangs of the carbide tips, there should be no deviation from the cut line.
Dik, One way to fix this is by spacers.
kNowing that I'm lazy to spend few minutes...
an abdustable arbor can do the same thing?
But is much easier to do that and more with the new uni-base.
Is so simple and superior to all other ways...

I don't have the luxury of time due to health and other issues..
I want to finish ez and the DWC with a bang.
I want to go in peace and hopefully have the time to spend on the ez-book.
To let all dreamers/inventors and good people with ideas
good and intentions that before they start....to think it over 100 times.
to read the ez book and avoid my 100+ mistakes.

anyway, I will call you,
txd
__________________
ycf dino
eurekazone.
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 02-11-2018, 02:23 PM
Dino Dino is offline
Master Carpenter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 5,050
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Dino,

If you're talking about eliminating the ACE and putting the complete anti-chip function on the bottom of the saw base as some forum posters have done, why not use the same concept as K*** and have a strip underneath the track, and perpendicular to the track, that touches the edge of the plywood, trimmed with the saw and used to show the cut line? Mark the edge of the plywood with a pencil to show the cut line, move the track until the end of the "pointer" is aligned with the mark and make your cut - this could be a moulded housing attached to the bottom of the track with an adjustable, replaceable pointer.
Tom.
no way to eliminate the best antichip protection in the market.
make it better ? Yes.
to have a clean cut you need to apply pressure to the materials and not
to have another piece that works but not as good as EZ.

I started to play with mitersaws, tablesaws and other tools.
that created a new way. The Hybrid system,.
I use a 20 years old blades and new antichip materials with unreal results.
i compare a $5.00 blade to a $200.00 and ez won.
the replaceable pointer can be incorporated to the new Uni base that is already offer that feature. Look at the AC-3 on the moduni base.
the slots make it renewable to save money to the ez users.
very simple to have a similar method .

Why not screw a pointer on the saw base or the track?
It can be sliding or fixed in some cases,

tx
__________________
ycf dino
eurekazone.
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 02-11-2018, 02:50 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Evans, GA
Posts: 1,573
Default

Anybody have any idea how much variance there is in the amount carbide overhangs the blade base for different types and brands?
__________________
Have fun...

Dik Harrison
Former Consultant to EurekaZone

Blog
YouTube
SketchUp Models
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 02-11-2018, 03:10 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 563
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
Chris,
the marketing feature of the same cut line is just that.
how you can have the same cut line with different saw kerfs?
I believe that Festool is now using same kerf blades.
be ready to invest in few $60+ and to replace the strips
( glide-antiskid-edges) every few months if not weeks with heavy use
at the price of the track.

why we have to but 16" glide strios and not buying only 3 feet that you can apply at the bottom of your saw. same function with great savings,

the molds for the uni-base and tracks are finally in order.
I suggest to wait and get the best and latest.

tx
d
I saw old posts with drawings of an arc mechanism for adjusting bevels and maintaining the same cut line. Are you using something similar on the new base?

Does the arc need to change depending on kerf size? Math was never my strong point.

I will only speak for myself, but I think the main concern is that if we have one cut line for our individual tool, it will always be the same no matter what bevel angle we set. I do not care what my initial cut line measurement from the track is, only that it is consistent.

If another user has a cut line 0.45" from the track, and mine is 0.53", it does not matter. As long as mine is always 0.53" and the other user's is always 0.45" with the same saw and blade at any bevel.



I built some cabinets last week with EZ -- all butt joints. No problem. Very repeatable, very square. But i've been holding off on building some audio speakers because there are several obscure bevel angles, and the idea of searching for the cut line for each of the panels is frustrating.


best,
chris
__________________
-Christopher

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 02-11-2018, 04:17 PM
Dino Dino is offline
Master Carpenter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 5,050
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
I built some cabinets last week with EZ -- all butt joints. No problem. Very repeatable, very square. But i've been holding off on building some audio speakers because there are several obscure bevel angles, and the idea of searching for the cut line for each of the panels is frustrating.


best,
chris
Chris.
use a piece of thin aluminum or plastic.
square blade to the saw.
Best way to do that is to try few cuts and place the small cut pieces against the
piece of panel that you just cut. Use a square to make sure is 100% perfect.

I use to have a photo gallery that showed the whole squaring method.
Make sure that both white edges are cut the same.
Even remove them if you like.

Make few test kerf cuts in the same materials that you're going to use.
mark your kerf cuts and and now you have a jig that is guarantee
to set the track at the right place,

For 2-3-4 bevels...best to make one story stick with indicators.
your cut must be 1/2" deep to have the correct kerf size.

Even better, Use 2 ez tracks. use your saw base as a spacer.
screw the 2 tracks together at the very end with a 1/4" plastic strip or
wood. The second track is the full stabilizer.
If I was doing bevel cuts more than once...
I will use a similar setup to support the sawbase 100%.
The strip that connects the two tracks can be easily marked for any bevel.

Got it? If not, someone may make a drawing?
good luck.
__________________
ycf dino
eurekazone.
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 02-11-2018, 04:24 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Evans, GA
Posts: 1,573
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
I saw old posts with drawings of an arc mechanism for adjusting bevels and maintaining the same cut line. Are you using something similar on the new base?
Chris,
The design I did in 2012 did in fact use nested arcs that have their center of rotation at the cut line, thus keeping the edge of the blade at the same location regardless of bevel setting.
__________________
Have fun...

Dik Harrison
Former Consultant to EurekaZone

Blog
YouTube
SketchUp Models
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 02-11-2018, 05:59 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kerrville, Tx.
Posts: 886
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Chris,
The design I did in 2012 did in fact use nested arcs that have their center of rotation at the cut line, thus keeping the edge of the blade at the same location regardless of bevel setting.
Dik, like this? Only improvement I thought to make had to do with allowing the nested arcs to adjust right/left on the base in order to account for differing thickness carbide teeth between different blades. Turned out to be not really worth the effort for a good final result.
Smaller diameter blade on this saw (6 1/2") does super for 3/4" material.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	same cut-line-  1.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	101.9 KB
ID:	7287   Click image for larger version

Name:	same cut-line-  2.jpg
Views:	28
Size:	101.3 KB
ID:	7288   Click image for larger version

Name:	saw base for bevels 1.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	101.1 KB
ID:	7289   Click image for larger version

Name:	saw base for bevels 2.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	95.1 KB
ID:	7290  
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 02-11-2018, 06:18 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kerrville, Tx.
Posts: 886
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Dino,

If you're talking about eliminating the ACE and putting the complete anti-chip function on the bottom of the saw base as some forum posters have done, why not use the same concept as K*** and have a strip underneath the track, and perpendicular to the track, that touches the edge of the plywood, trimmed with the saw and used to show the cut line? Mark the edge of the plywood with a pencil to show the cut line, move the track until the end of the "pointer" is aligned with the mark and make your cut - this could be a moulded housing attached to the bottom of the track with an adjustable, replaceable pointer.
When I first ditched the ACE's, I wanted a quick way to align the track with a marked cut line and came up with this simple mod to the EZ clamps. Piece of 1/4" mdf screwed to the back of the clamp extrusion, left wider than needed so it could be trimmed to the correct width after mounting on the track and clamping it down. Once cut, the clamp is slid into the track, and the cut edge of the mdf is aligned with the preferred cut line; clamp and cut.

Works ok, but is not as exacting as the bent-wire indicator that rides on top of the EZ track ridge; and, like the ACEs, tends to lose it's exactitude after a while ( due to saw blade flex continuing to 'nibble' at it).
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	indexing jig.JPG
Views:	23
Size:	84.6 KB
ID:	7291  

Last edited by bumpnstump; 02-11-2018 at 06:21 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 02-11-2018, 06:52 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Kerrville, Tx.
Posts: 886
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
i've been holding off on building some audio speakers because there are several obscure bevel angles, and the idea of searching for the cut line for each of the panels is frustrating.


best,
chris
Here is an older post showing one way to approach obscure (obtuse?) angles:

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showthr...+angle+cutting

In that posting, my approach is way too complex, but the principle is sound and simple. Towards the end of the post, Too Many Toys showed a much more refined version. In a later posting (different topic), another EZ user showed a super simple set-up to accomplish the same thing. (bummer! I couldn't find his posting.)

Basically, just hinge a material-holding 'table' (piece of ply/mdf) on the edge of a work bench ~3/4-1" below the bottom of the top of the bench; place EZ track on top of the work bench, near the edge; pivot the 'table' to the correct angle; set the material on the 'table'; move the material up to where it needs to be cut; clamp in place; move track over to cut line; clamp; cut. You'll probably need to make an initial rough cut near the intended final cut line in order to allow the piece being cut to get within range of the saw blade w/out hitting the saw base. Using this method creates nice 'super-angles'.
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 02-11-2018, 07:41 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Evans, GA
Posts: 1,573
Default

Thanks, I thought you were the one that did that.
__________________
Have fun...

Dik Harrison
Former Consultant to EurekaZone

Blog
YouTube
SketchUp Models
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 12:09 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.