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  #11  
Old 01-08-2011, 01:08 AM
Burt Burt is offline
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Tempest,

There is no problem doing doors with the SSRK or the SRK. I have made raised panel doors with both. Like Larry said, you basically trap - clamp -hold the board in place while the router is moved to route it. Like Larry said, the rails can be clamped together so you can cut multiple ends at one time.

On the flip side, much of the routing can also be done using the tunnel system - styles, linear cuts on the rails and the raised panels. The ends of the rails are best done while held in place. If you want, you can make a carrier for the rails and process the rail ends by running them by the bit. If you choose this method, I recommend you cut a rail to normal length but double width (5 1/4" instead of the normal 2 1/2") The wider board allows you to have support on both both sides of the bit. I've done this years - never liked approaching a bit that was wider than the board. After all the routing on the Rail is done, just put it under an EZ rail and rip it into two rails.

The only wierd thing is the bits are turned upside down from the way you are accustomed to using them.

As with most things with the EZ System, there is lots of room for thought with exactly how you make doors. I have done some work on an EZ router table and hope to do some more work on it soon.

I have always used the Freud 2+2 bits in the 2 3/4" size on the SSRK. I recently bought some larger bits and I may try them on SSRK.

Burt

Last edited by Burt; 01-08-2011 at 01:10 AM.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2011, 02:10 AM
Tempest Tempest is offline
 
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Thanks for that Dino, very informative, but those are rabbets that are easily stopped. As you know, rail bits are through cuts, so there is no easy way to stop them. Some sort of a clamp arrangement would be needed.

I suppose you could set up a sacrificial fence as a reference, but it still wouldn't be a hard stop.

Quote:
you can make a carrier for the rails and process the rail ends by running them by the bit.
Then you are back to a coping sled on a router table. No difference.

Quote:
I recommend you cut a rail to normal length but double width (5 1/4" instead of the normal 2 1/2") The wider board allows you to have support on both both sides of the bit.
Now THAT is an excellent idea that I will have to remember on my next set of doors.
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2011, 03:59 AM
Burt Burt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
Thanks for that Dino, very informative, but those are rabbets that are easily stopped. As you know, rail bits are through cuts, so there is no easy way to stop them. Some sort of a clamp arrangement would be needed.

I suppose you could set up a sacrificial fence as a reference, but it still wouldn't be a hard stop.


Then you are back to a coping sled on a router table. No difference.


Now THAT is an excellent idea that I will have to remember on my next set of doors.
That isn't quite accurate. With the SSRK, the cabinet rail is sliding under the SSRK router base (Height should be adjusted to put a very light pressure on the board being routed), the board is more controlled and there is a shield between you and the cutter.

Burt
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2011, 02:27 PM
sdssmith sdssmith is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveLambert View Post
My EZ-One arrives today and it got me thinking. I bought a router table, but maybe I don't need it. I'd like to do everything I would with the router table, using the EZ-One and the router attachment. For 95% of things, it seems like it would work.

The only thing I can't figure out is how I would make a box joint, or similarly, create squared off tabs at the end of a piece. With a router table, I can stand the board on its end and run it past the bit with the miter fence. But I can't stand the board on its end...

Or is there a way this could work?

If it can't - no problem. The EZ-One can cover enough bases and I can keep a small, cheap router table around for rare instances when I'll need it. But if there's a smarter way, I want to know!
Has anyone made a box joint with the ez-one?
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2011, 01:38 PM
Tempest Tempest is offline
 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgcUD...eature=related

It would be done like this, just with the cutter moving rather than the wood.
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  #16  
Old 01-13-2011, 12:23 PM
Ken Ken is offline
 
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I will start out saying I haven't tried box joints on the EZ yet but I don't think it would be that hard. To do it on the table saw a jig is made with an indexing pin so that the wood can be moved over for the next cut. It could be done the same way just with a moving tool and a fixed jig rather then a fixed tool and a moving jig. I wood probably try a jig against the squaring fence and the wood clamped vertically to the side of the PBB next to the bridge. The SSRK and a router would be used to make the cuts. The router bit used and the indexing pin need to be the same width.

Another solution would be the combo of Incra/SSRK that Dik posted on the forum. The last box joints that I did were for Christmas gifts. It was done on the router table with an Incra fence over a year ago. I attached a few pictures so that you can see the accuracy of the Incra fence. In the future I want to try it with the SSRK.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7554.jpg (98.0 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7561.jpg (99.4 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7562.jpg (97.7 KB, 53 views)

Last edited by Ken; 01-13-2011 at 12:34 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-13-2011, 03:11 PM
sdssmith sdssmith is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tempest View Post
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgcUD...eature=related

It would be done like this, just with the cutter moving rather than the wood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken View Post
I will start out saying I haven't tried box joints on the EZ yet but I don't think it would be that hard. To do it on the table saw a jig is made with an indexing pin so that the wood can be moved over for the next cut. It could be done the same way just with a moving tool and a fixed jig rather then a fixed tool and a moving jig. I wood probably try a jig against the squaring fence and the wood clamped vertically to the side of the PBB next to the bridge. The SSRK and a router would be used to make the cuts. The router bit used and the indexing pin need to be the same width.

Another solution would be the combo of Incra/SSRK that Dik posted on the forum. The last box joints that I did were for Christmas gifts. It was done on the router table with an Incra fence over a year ago. I attached a few pictures so that you can see the accuracy of the Incra fence. In the future I want to try it with the SSRK.
I too have made box joints with my table saw (with a jig) and my router table with a Jointech positioner. I was interested in seeing what ezone users had used to make box joints.
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2011, 02:06 PM
Tempest Tempest is offline
 
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I too have a Jointech. The accuracy and repeatability of these things will really spoil you.
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2011, 06:52 PM
SteveLambert SteveLambert is offline
 
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Has anyone used EZ tools to create box joints yet? Or is this uncharted territory?
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