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  #51  
Old 01-03-2018, 11:14 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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I haven't had this specific problem but I often use hot glue to tack pieces together temporarily.

Or you could drill a small hole in the SME for a screw to hold the panel in place.

Likely, someone else may have a better solution.
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  #52  
Old 01-03-2018, 11:49 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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I screw a thin piece of wood at the edge so that it presses against the extrusions.
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  #53  
Old 01-04-2018, 12:00 AM
Glenn Glenn is offline
 
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I use two clamps
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  #54  
Old 01-04-2018, 01:35 PM
JamesMac JamesMac is offline
 
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Would something like the stops in this attached post work for you?

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showthr...highlight=stop
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  #55  
Old 01-04-2018, 02:37 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
I screw a thin piece of wood at the edge so that it presses against the extrusions.
I should have said these are on the bottom to the panel.
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  #56  
Old 06-30-2018, 02:57 PM
JamesMac JamesMac is offline
 
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Default Its Cool to be Square....first experience with EZ One

Hi All,

I finally had an opportunity to spend a couple of days putting my folding leg EZ One on its maiden journey. It was fun! However, as usual, I have a few questions for the folks here that have a lot of experience with their EZ One.

first of all - I have the folding leg version. When EZ started offering the newer "beefed up" squaring rod, I purchased an additional one, so my table actually has two of the new squaring rods installed.

I pulled the EZ One out of the garage and set it up in the shady front yard and let the sawdust fly. I used a Woodpeckers 18" large triangle square to calibrate the guide rail to the "fence". I have the Makita 5007 MGA with a 40 tooth Diablo blade on it.

I felt compelled to keep checking the calibration of the guide rail to the fence after every few cuts. I am a perfectionist. I did find it necessary to square the guide rail to the fence more than I feel that I should have.

With that being said, just how important is it to set up the EZ one on a HARD and LEVEL surface? Mine was set up in a fairly level area, but it was in the grass....Even though it was in the grass, it was level enough so that the table did not rock around. My thoughts were that I should take my time and carefully square the guide rail to the fence and then it should not be necessary to re-calibrate it the rest of the day, even after hundreds of cuts. That was NOT my experience. I am seeking your feedback, especially on this!! It is possible that I am doing something wrong.

also, even though the ACE strips provide good anti-chip protection, I noticed that the edge of the ACE strips do move a little with even light pressure applied with the bridge. That makes it difficult to cut a pencil line EXACTLY where I want to. This will have me searching for other means to cut EXACTLY on my pencil line in the future. I envision eventually ditching the ACE and using a cut line indicator of some sort, such as what others in this forum use. Of course without the ACE, I will have to install some sort of anti chip block on my saw base in lieu of the ACE to keep the cuts absolutely clean.

I was building some utility type shelves for my garage. It was a fun and productive couple of days. I was hoping that the EZ One would be able to easily overcome my inexperience and make me easily look like a pro! I am planning on making some built-ins and I want to do some cabinet making in the future. Before I get into that kind of precision it is obvious that my inexperience will be a factor and that this equipment, although very good, is not a miracle dispenser.

In summary, I have some work to do:
1. ditch the ACE and install a modified antichip block to my sawbase.
2. make some sort of cut line indicator
3. going to make a jig to quickly and easily square my EZ One guide rail to the fence AND the miter arm attached to the guide rail when just using the tracks. I figure that if the jig is large and the "squaring" edge is LONG, it will be easier to use and more accurate than an 18" triangle that I currently use to square it up.

thank you in advance for any feedback that you can give....
Jim
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  #57  
Old 07-02-2018, 12:04 AM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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As you discovered, the EZ1 has a learning curve. No doubt, many will have some helpful insights. Here's my two cents on getting accurate, repeatable cuts:

The table must be level and should be squared up after each time it's moved. (I check the set up on every tool I have each day before I use it.)

While your square is nice and a good place to start, nothing beats making test cuts. I think you're already on the right track here.

As for the ACEs, some lik'em some don't. I haven't had any issues with them.

Are you using the stops? It's practically impossible to make accurate, repeat cuts with any cutting tool without stops. Using them will help overcome a lot of the issues you mentioned. Also, you'll only have to measure for your first cut.

As for your future plans, get the UEG. It's worth every cent. Also, consider a couple of repeaters and the smart table accessory.

Good luck!
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  #58  
Old 07-02-2018, 08:10 AM
JamesMac JamesMac is offline
 
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Tracedfar,

Thanks for the reply!

Yes, I already have the UEG (love it), repeaters (have not used them yet) and a smart table accessory. I have pretty much everything that EZ makes. Yep, I use stops on repeat cuts.

I squared up the EZ1 after setting it up in the yard and got started. I checked it with the square after only a few cuts and it needed to be squared up again. Granted it was only off by a small amount, but still not what I expected. I had to square it up several times during the day. I thought that was an excessive amount of calibration. It was set up in the grass, but fairly level and was not rocking around when any downward pressure was placed on the EZ1. In retrospect, I am guessing that setting it up in the grass was not the best decision. I did not place it in my concrete driveway, as it slopes down to the street. Perhaps that would have been a better choice as at least the concrete driveway offers a firmer footing even if it is not level?

thanks,
Jim
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  #59  
Old 07-12-2018, 08:58 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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I think any soft surface allows any table to flex or twist out of square. And it's likely to happen each time you put weight on the table. Every time the ground gives, your table will be that much further out.
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  #60  
Old 07-13-2018, 04:05 PM
JamesMac JamesMac is offline
 
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You are probably right about this. The more I think about it, the more sense it makes. Do you think it would matter if the EZ1 is sitting on a slope as long as all legs are making solid contact with a concrete driveway?
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