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  #11  
Old 02-05-2014, 09:29 PM
Vondoom88 Vondoom88 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Nowheresville, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan G View Post
I learned about grain filler in a finishing book that I got from the local library. I've applied it like a drywall skim coat with a plastic scraper, then sand off, then stain. Charles Neil is good at finishing things. A search for charles neil grain filler on youtube brings up this video. He's using a brush and rag to apply it and mixing stain in ahead of time. You might have to experiment with it. I ended up sanding too much off the first time I used it.
Thanks for the link! Yeah I'll definitely have to try it on some test pieces first!
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Mark R.
Northern IL.
SGS 64" W/ Miter square. Ripsizer, SSRK, B-100 & STK 36", 24" tracks & a EZ-One ...... so far + a UEG!!
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:12 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sumter, SC
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Originally Posted by philb View Post
Wood like pine can be splotchy. The problem is the pitch or resin, in the wood. You can experience big difference with the cut. Quartersawn will take stain a bit differently than plain sawn. The pre stain sealer really helps the most on the end grain, which sucks up the stain and darkens considerably. The pre stain will help more with keeping the stain more even across the different surfaces.

I think that finishing is a whole craft unto itself and I sure have had a tough time getting the finish that I want. So I would say that by no means am I any sort of authority on the subject. The comment above are just what my personal experience has been.

BTW, that is a nice looking case you have crafted.
Phil is correct that finishing is a craft in itself. Personally, I prefer hand rubbed oil finishes. They take a lot of time but sure are nice. I've even been known to use an oil finish and top it with poly or lacquer. The advantage of the oil is that it is absorbed in the top layers of the wood and makes the wood surface harder. The poly or lacquer is more like wraping the project in plastic.


Burt
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2014, 12:02 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 250
Default Paint Pad for water-bsase stain

Quote:
Originally Posted by cut2cut View Post
I have stained alot with the water based finishes.

Just be aware of the short working time for the water stains on large panels. You have to move real fast to get in on and rubbed off and have it look even.

I think that the water poly is fine for your application as it shouldnt get alot of wear. On high use items like kitchen tables they wear kinda fast.

looks good.
I used General Finishes Water-Based Stain for a recent project as I was looking for a dark reddish-brown stain and their Redwood stain gave me the color I was looking for without mixing. Because it dries so fast, I had problems getting the grain filled properly in some area. I called GF's Tech Services and they advised using a paint pad - the kind with dense short bristles - and this worked very well, giving a nice even coat.

Tom
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