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  #11  
Old 05-05-2014, 11:21 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Lexington, Ky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vondoom88 View Post
Turns out I don't think that bow is that bad. This pic I took with two washers under lid on top of the front legs. The washers are roughly 1/8" they aren't quite thick enough but close. I think without the support in the front it was making the lid look worse than it was.
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With the bumpers in front do you think the lid will crack or split if the kid climbs on top of it or her mom stacks stuff on it? I may end up putting cleat under the lid anyway to beef it up. Or bumpers midway on the sides. Man I really wish I'd thought of the gap those hinges were going to make! I'd rather the lid just make contact all the way around. Live and learn I guess
Mark, one quick way to 'gap' the lid w/out bumpers would be to install a strip of wood across the front of the lid, on the underside, so that when it closes, that strip barely misses the inside edge of the front of the toy box.
Then, on the inside of the box, attach another strip, running the length of the front of the box. Then, when the lid is closed, the strip on the lid will sit on the strip inside of the box.
Hopefully, all of that was clear.
If you want to get 'fancy', lower the strip that goes on the inside of the box a bit too low for the lid-strip to hit it. Then, install some short 1/4-20 bolts, or something similar, into the box-strip; the bolts can be adjusted to allow the lid-strip to hit at the correct position.
Also, if a strip is too intrusive, just do a modified version using blocks instead, in the front, inside corners of the box.

Re. lid cracking due to kids jumping on it: I always try to plan for the worst case scenario; if a kid doesn't break it, some adult might (eg. using the toy box to stand on to reach something high, or, change a light bulb, or, whatever).
Rick
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  #12  
Old 05-06-2014, 12:18 AM
Vondoom88 Vondoom88 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by jgowrie View Post
nice toy box... I have looked at those torsion hinges in Rockler but the cost of them seems a bit high and I have found the cheaper spring loaded lid hinges in HD work pretty good for a light lid.. Those are pretty nice though and I may try them one of these days.

Would it be possible to mortise those hinges down into the back panel by the amount you want to drop the lid? Doesn't appear to be bowed in the images but it's hard to see that far end.. Rick's suggestions are all good if you do have a bow though that is what's preventing the lid from coming down on the front of the box.
I think my original "bowing" was due to there being a gap in the back created by the hinges and I was closing the lid all the way in the front.
I've been thinking about milling out a recess that will lower the hinges just not sure how I'd do it. I do have a SSRK & this maybe doable. I'll just have to spend some time playing around with setting it up. That or like Rick suggested with the strips possibly.

I appreciate all the suggestions!
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SGS 64" W/ Miter square. Ripsizer, SSRK, B-100 & STK 36", 24" tracks & a EZ-One ...... so far + a UEG!!
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  #13  
Old 05-06-2014, 12:12 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Default Bumper with Stem

Rockler makes a bumper with a stem that could be used for your application

http://www.rockler.com/soft-stem-bumpers

The pad is 1/8" thick so probably pretty close to the thickness of the hinge. They would be good in this application as they push into a drilled hole and so safer for children (glue could be added for added security).

Mortising the hinges is pretty straight-forward; scribe a line either side of the hinges before removing them and then chisel out between the lines to the required depth. You would have to plug and relocate the holes in the back wall of the box.

Tom
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  #14  
Old 05-10-2014, 05:49 PM
Vondoom88 Vondoom88 is offline
 
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Location: Nowheresville, IL
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Well I setup the SSRK and recessed the hinges. Got to admit this is the first time I really did something with the SSRK besides play around with it. I'm really impressed totally functions as advertised. Looking forward to seeing what else I can do with it.




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Mark R.
Northern IL.
SGS 64" W/ Miter square. Ripsizer, SSRK, B-100 & STK 36", 24" tracks & a EZ-One ...... so far + a UEG!!
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  #15  
Old 05-10-2014, 05:53 PM
Vondoom88 Vondoom88 is offline
 
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Default Possible helpful discovery today

While I was setting up my SSRK to recess those hinges I was trying to figure out a clamping solution & discovered that my cheap Pittsburgh bar clamps from harbor freight will fit into the slot on a SSME/SME. Now not all of them fit due to the casting but a few swipes with a file just between the lip & rivet and should work no problem.
Now I didn't end up using them this way but I think it might work for some light clamping. It could deform the SSME channel when tightened as I didn't experiment further I'm unsure but thought I'd mention it.
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Mark R.
Northern IL.
SGS 64" W/ Miter square. Ripsizer, SSRK, B-100 & STK 36", 24" tracks & a EZ-One ...... so far + a UEG!!
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  #16  
Old 05-10-2014, 06:03 PM
Vondoom88 Vondoom88 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Rockler makes a bumper with a stem that could be used for your application

http://www.rockler.com/soft-stem-bumpers

The pad is 1/8" thick so probably pretty close to the thickness of the hinge. They would be good in this application as they push into a drilled hole and so safer for children (glue could be added for added security).

Mortising the hinges is pretty straight-forward; scribe a line either side of the hinges before removing them and then chisel out between the lines to the required depth. You would have to plug and relocate the holes in the back wall of the box.

Tom
BTW thanks Tom! I ordered some stem bumpers off of amazon!
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Mark R.
Northern IL.
SGS 64" W/ Miter square. Ripsizer, SSRK, B-100 & STK 36", 24" tracks & a EZ-One ...... so far + a UEG!!
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