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  #11  
Old 08-29-2015, 07:08 AM
redoleary redoleary is offline
 
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Location: Battle Creek MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Tom. I use 3/4" PVC trim and plane one side down to 1/2", then make the cuts on the TS for the "T" to fit the slot.
Dik, would you mind sharing a picture of this please.
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  #12  
Old 08-29-2015, 09:19 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Tom. I use 3/4" PVC trim and plane one side down to 1/2", then make the cuts on the TS for the "T" to fit the slot.
Dik,

Are you saying that you're using PVC trim from Lowes (for example). running the strip through the planer to get 1/2" thickness and then cutting to suit the track? If so, I have a piece of trim in the shop I'll have to test.

I made my parts by first cutting the slots on the TS (the groove width is really close to a thin-kerf rip blade) and then a pass on each side at the router table to get the thickness down.

Tom
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  #13  
Old 08-29-2015, 12:51 PM
sean9c sean9c is online now
 
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That's a good idea to use PVC trim. Long lengths for a reasonable price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Tom. I use 3/4" PVC trim and plane one side down to 1/2", then make the cuts on the TS for the "T" to fit the slot.
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  #14  
Old 08-30-2015, 09:23 AM
Mike Goetzke Mike Goetzke is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
It's pretty simple, but I could send a couple more photos if interested.

Tom
Please do!

Thanks
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  #15  
Old 08-30-2015, 10:20 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Here are some more photos of the gauge as I was making it.

First photo is the parts of the cursor - a piece of t-track and scraps of aluminum and Plexiglas.

Photo 2 shows the recess for the cursor in the bottom of the UHME block - the depth of the recess was made to keep the u/s of the Plexiglas cursor close to the plywood surface to minimize parallax error.

Photo 3 shows the cursor assembled to the block and the groove for the ridge on the track.

Photo 4 shows the edge of the ACE aligned with the layout line on the plywood - the track was clamped to the plywood at this point.

Photo 5 shows the gauge sitting on the track (still clamped to the plywood) and the line on the cursor aligned with the layout line - the RH scribe line shows the outer edge of the saw kerf for those who have the cut part to the right of the track.

I didn't take a photo of scribing the cursor lines, but here is the process - with the track clamped t the plywood, make a short cut into the edge of the plywood. Set the gauge on the track and scribe the Plexiglas from the bottom. I used a knife with a single bevel on the edge so that the face would lay flat on the edge of the kerf. I went over the scribe lines with a black Sharpie and then wiped off the excess so that the ink was down in the bottom of the scribe groove.

This is going to be useful if I eliminate the ACE completely and go to a block screwed to the bottom of the EZ base, but I'm going to try making some strips out of the PVC trim as suggested by Dik first.

Hope this helps.

Tom
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  #16  
Old 08-30-2015, 12:33 PM
mrstop mrstop is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Cincinnati
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Here are some more photos of the gauge as I was making it.

First photo is the parts of the cursor - a piece of t-track and scraps of aluminum and Plexiglas.

Photo 2 shows the recess for the cursor in the bottom of the UHME block - the depth of the recess was made to keep the u/s of the Plexiglas cursor close to the plywood surface to minimize parallax error.

Photo 3 shows the cursor assembled to the block and the groove for the ridge on the track.

Photo 4 shows the edge of the ACE aligned with the layout line on the plywood - the track was clamped to the plywood at this point.

Photo 5 shows the gauge sitting on the track (still clamped to the plywood) and the line on the cursor aligned with the layout line - the RH scribe line shows the outer edge of the saw kerf for those who have the cut part to the right of the track.

I didn't take a photo of scribing the cursor lines, but here is the process - with the track clamped t the plywood, make a short cut into the edge of the plywood. Set the gauge on the track and scribe the Plexiglas from the bottom. I used a knife with a single bevel on the edge so that the face would lay flat on the edge of the kerf. I went over the scribe lines with a black Sharpie and then wiped off the excess so that the ink was down in the bottom of the scribe groove.

This is going to be useful if I eliminate the ACE completely and go to a block screwed to the bottom of the EZ base, but I'm going to try making some strips out of the PVC trim as suggested by Dik first.

Hope this helps.

Tom
Thanks for posting this! I have been playing around a bit more as I now have an EZ One and I have been looking at ways to improve accuracy and simplify setup.

I see that you made the guide adjustable. However, adjustment occurs at the bottom. It would be great if this could be set from the top of the jig to reduce hassle. Some sort of indexing mechanism from the blade would also be helpful. In my imaginary world it would adjust for blade width also
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  #17  
Old 08-30-2015, 01:17 PM
Mike Goetzke Mike Goetzke is offline
 
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Thanks Tom - looks like you have a double line to account for blade kerf so you can mark keepers on both sides?

Mike
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  #18  
Old 08-30-2015, 01:50 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Goetzke View Post
Thanks Tom - looks like you have a double line to account for blade kerf so you can mark keepers on both sides?

Mike
Exactly, although I don't use the RH line, the part I cut is always under the track.
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  #19  
Old 08-30-2015, 02:00 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrstop View Post
Thanks for posting this! I have been playing around a bit more as I now have an EZ One and I have been looking at ways to improve accuracy and simplify setup.

I see that you made the guide adjustable. However, adjustment occurs at the bottom. It would be great if this could be set from the top of the jig to reduce hassle. Some sort of indexing mechanism from the blade would also be helpful. In my imaginary world it would adjust for blade width also
While it could probably be made to adjust from the top, it's much easier to make it adjust from the bottom. It's not as bad as it seems - loosen the screws so that the Plexiglas barely moves, slide the whole gauge back off the material and tighten the screws from the bottom. Not as bad as it seems.

The double line was just to show I could do it, as noted I don't use the RH one. I don't see the need to be able to adjust the width of the spacing, just make a separate cursor for a blade with a different kerf width.

I'm not sure what you mean by "an indexing mechanism from the blade" - I clamp the track to a piece of plywood so it doesn't move, make a short cut to give me a kerf and then adjust the cursor to the kerf. Thinking about it, it would probably be cleaner to have just one scribe line on the cursor and enough adjustment to allow for it to be aligned to either side of the kerf - but you still need to make the trial cut each time for the specific blade being used.
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  #20  
Old 08-30-2015, 03:04 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Location: Evans, GA
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Yes, I use PVC trim from Lowe's and plane it down to 1/2". I make some wide enough that I can use them for bevel cuts. Here are a couple of pictures of them installed.
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