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Old 08-14-2017, 03:06 PM
k_graham k_graham is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 15
Default Makita 5008MGA Anti-Kickback Fin issue

I just received a new EZsmart Universal Saw Base with 108" track. If I drop the sawblade completely its going to pretty much wipe out the anti-kickback fin and if I remove enough for the safety guard to come down there won't be any anti-kickback fin left .

Do they have a different antikickback fin for the Makita 5008MGA or a different base?

Also I notice the plastic edge guides on the saw track fall out on their own, do you silicone or otherwise cement them in place.

Ken
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:13 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k_graham View Post
I just received a new EZsmart Universal Saw Base with 108" track. If I drop the sawblade completely its going to pretty much wipe out the anti-kickback fin and if I remove enough for the safety guard to come down there won't be any anti-kickback fin left .

Do they have a different antikickback fin for the Makita 5008MGA or a different base?

Also I notice the plastic edge guides on the saw track fall out on their own, do you silicone or otherwise cement them in place.

Ken
Hi Ken,
first the edges.
You can cramp? the edges.
Using a plyer you can deform the round part in 4 places.
or...You can use painters tape or any tape that you have.

Do you receive the edges pre-installed or separate.?
I'm working on a different location. The new product division and tech support
to assist the office when busy.


The goal is for the edgess not to move after placed on the materials.
When clamping the track...( for testing) make a marl to the materials.
Clamp until you notice IF and how much the edges moved.
When trimming the edges...full support under the edges and don't over-clamp.

use the blade that you will use the most. I like the Freud Diabl0 24-40 teeth.
24 for normal solid wood cuts and 40 for fine cross cuts on panels and melamine. Don't start and stop. plan your step and take it easy.

the FIN>
Don't use it. The main benefit of the Fin is to cut panels vertically.
works only with the edge guide or for freehand cuts.
This is first time thoughts. don't take me wrong here.
Can you move the Fin back? We use to ship 2 fins.
See what you can do with the extra Fin.

Please, remove the plastic in order for the guard to operate properly.
I never tried but I will do a test today to modify
( remove some materials from the guard) and report back.

But even if you only have 1/2" of FIN left. it works.
When you first install the base...use the fin to align everything.
one straight edge clamped to base and FIN is the best way.

We're working on new ways and updates to make everything better.
Here is another idea...Cut the base in half and extend it.
If you use the UEG...you will need to make new holes in the arms.

Many people don't even use the Fin.

I hope the above can assist you.
welcome to ez.
__________________
ycf dino
eurekazone.
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Old 08-14-2017, 04:40 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,243
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When I used the anti-chip edges I found a handy way to hold them in place was was to screw a #10 ( I think) sheetmetal screw into them at each end. Just thread it into the plastic.

Some Freud blades are thinner then the Fin. I quit using the Fin.
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Old 08-15-2017, 02:54 AM
k_graham k_graham is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 15
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Please, remove the plastic in order for the guard to operate properly.
I never tried but I will do a test today to modify
( remove some materials from the guard) and report back.


I filed about a 1/4" rounded groove into the base already. I see if I move the fin back and cut an inch off the back of the fins base and grind a small rounded groove in front I can probably keep the fin, however I will also have to drill and countersink screws to keep it in place as the holding tab will be gone. I am just disappointed the tool is like this given you sell the 8.25" Makita presumably ready to go. As I am from Canada it seemed more logical to only order the kit and not the saw of Eurekazone.

Unfortunately I already used the suggested method in the paper and video with the tabs touching and no that was not a satisfactory method. I see the sawblade is offset slightly but parallel from the Fin. The drawback is that means I can't use the holes I already drilled in saw base as moving 1/2 a hole won't work.
  1. I know the Makita manual mentions some adjustment for the base so I will see if I can bring it in with that though it means unscrewing the Universal saw base to access the other adjustment and maybe drilling a hole to be able to access them while the Universal saw base is attached.
  2. Another option may be a thin spacer for the shaft and move the saw blade out slightly. I've seen such spacers at a local machine shop type store. Of course this may adversely affect the 45 degree angle which would need to be compared. But for precision should be checked with a set square anyway.
  3. The 3rd option will be to adjust the aligning to the fin and drill and countersink 4 new holes.
  4. A 4th option may be to return it as not working or fitting as advertised.


Here is another idea...Cut the base in half and extend it.

To extreme

If you use the UEG...you will need to make new holes in the arms.

Yes if the middle holes are used to line up the ruler at 0 mark 2 new holes would be needed to make a total of 4 bolts holding the UEG together but how did this get to the end user?

Eurekazone did say they were sending me the older style unit without the offset rules.

But even if you only have 1/2" of FIN left. it works.
When you first install the base...use the fin to align everything.
one straight edge clamped to base and FIN is the best way.


Actually my business is a print shop and I was thinking how would I rewrite the manual to make sense. My thought was exactly that, that the fin on page 4 should be explained as the new Step 1, further that a 2nd FIN should be included (but wasn't) and assembled backwards at the front of saw as their is provision for that due to the ability to be used for right and left saws) then a straight edge or 2 attached on either side of blade from fin to fin. This would be the no brain way to guarantee positioning of the saw on the base. (if blade is 1st checked to be at 90 degrees as well to base).



Many people don't even use the Fin.

This and my (mis)understanding that the saw base was locked in place on the track was why I decided to buy the Eureka tracksaw. For Coroplast and paper and laminate cutting we have the http://imageedge.com/index.html and it physically has to have the cutting head come out the end of the track which is what I thought the Eureka tracksaw was doing. I had considered the Makita Tracksaw but one person in forums mentioned and showed the results of a kickback because it is without a riving knife or interlocking saw base and track. That left Dewalt and Festool and for a 6.5" unit the Dewalt apparently has more power. I've had difficulty with a 7.25" Skillsaw plus plywood track not having enough cutting depth so the promise of the Eureka locking to the track plus a 8.25" saw was what swayed me.

We're working on new ways and updates to make everything better.

I haven't given up on the interlocking saw attached to track idea as I believe it could be safely used in a panelsaw type vertical system the wood backing of which I've already installed on 1 garage wall at home. The beauty would be the ability to take the vertical track away to a remote site for use as needed.

I hope the above can assist you.
welcome to ez.


Thanks, give me a call if you care to discuss the interlocking track to saw idea further I've sourced said track & interlocking rail now to 150" though its not a "tracksaw track" and still could benefit from a separate base.

Ken Graham
President
CommunityPrintersAndStationers.com

Last edited by k_graham; 08-15-2017 at 03:04 AM. Reason: Spelling corrections.
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