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  #21  
Old 03-22-2018, 12:59 AM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
But then I would need one for each project wouldn't I?
Well, since the stop is not infinitely adjustable (unless you do micro adjustments with the screw), you'll be able to recall your last position exactly with the rack&pinion system. You could just write down your stop location. If you selected 10", it'll be the same 10" next time, not 10-1/32" or 9-31/32".

Of course, like i said earlier, that's only assuming everything else stays constant.
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  #22  
Old 03-22-2018, 01:04 AM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Or just buy something like this:

http://www.shopwoodpeckers.com/woodp...-pro-sspro-48/

butt it up against the blade. No need to remember anything or store kerf cuts

I used this when i needed to replicate some panels exactly


Otherwise, stair gauges do the same exact thing for $5 if you already have a long enough rule
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  #23  
Old 03-22-2018, 09:09 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I think we are in agreement on what a story stick is. Normally it is just pencil marks and notes on a "stick". I was thinking that if I could actually positively "set" the cut length with it as well rather than transferring measurements that would be a plus. Then drill a hole in it, and hang it on the wall. When it is time to make my next blurf, I get the stick with "blurf" written on it and setup and cut all my pieces.

Looks like I have some videos to watch now
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  #24  
Old 03-22-2018, 09:12 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I have the original incrajig (the plastic one). I am trying to figure a way to bring it into my work. It is rack & rack and does seem to be repeatable, or I could certainly print a "pattern" or simply put in a paper and mark lines where I could come back to them. It is a bit limited in its length, but I see some ways around that also.
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  #25  
Old 03-22-2018, 09:35 AM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Originally Posted by tofu View Post
I use this, but for inside measurements I have several lengths that I fasten together (I got some reject pieces from WoodPecker) with a simple connector that lets me adjust the length to the exact dimension. I don't measure anything, I just use the story stick directly to set up the cut.

I don't usually make "standard" cabinets, just about everything I make is unique.
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  #26  
Old 03-22-2018, 11:59 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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I think the difference comes when you want to either have "standardized" dimensions for components/features of an assembly or whether you want to be able to duplicate something unique or make multiple copies of something. Looking at Mark Sommerfeld's videos, the states that the various parts are always a set dimension - and he shows using gauge blocks to set the rails at the dimension needed to give the standard drawer heights he uses. The picture that I posted would work for replicating a previous project without having to remember what you did. In one of his videos, Dino showed the use of gauge blocks used to set standard cut widths when the fence was on the offcut side of the fence - the bridge was lowered, and the block contacted the outside edges of the saw teeth. I use a similar method to set the rip width on the UEG, but the gauge block to the face of the fence and then slide the carriage over until the teeth tough the edge of the block - quick and easy.

The Woodpecker's Story Stick comes in handy to mark things like drawer slide heights on opposing sides of a cabinet - although I have a set of blocks that I use to set the height, off the bottom and then subsequent slides.
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  #27  
Old 03-22-2018, 12:25 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I have an idea that I may have to give a try. I have a nice 48" straightedge. Next time I am at Staples I am going to buy a box of those black black bendy springy-clippy things. That should do the same as the wood pecker tabs. but if they stick up far enough I can touch them to the blade and the other end to a set a stop. How's that for an idea? That would certainly work by measurement, and I guess I can pick up long flat rules for a couple/three bucks in both imperial and metric to keep one or two setup for common tasks. Maybe that would be better than kerfs.
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  #28  
Old 03-22-2018, 12:33 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
I have an idea that I may have to give a try. I have a nice 48" straightedge. Next time I am at Staples I am going to buy a box of those black black bendy springy-clippy things. That should do the same as the wood pecker tabs. but if they stick up far enough I can touch them to the blade and the other end to a set a stop. How's that for an idea? That would certainly work by measurement, and I guess I can pick up long flat rules for a couple/three bucks in both imperial and metric to keep one or two setup for common tasks. Maybe that would be better than kerfs.
Stair gauges won't work?
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  #29  
Old 03-22-2018, 12:43 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I think they are like $5 per pair. Binder clips are like $2 for 12 at Staples And they stick up nicely if I clip them on right. I will buy a box when i am there next to try, or I might have some in a drawer somewhere ... I must have some somewhere...
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  #30  
Old 03-22-2018, 01:22 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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I was intrigued by the System 130 but it just never took off - probably because CNC has taken over in production shops and one man shops like mine don't do enough to justify having one. Similar to most here, a lot of my work is custom. When I build standard cabinets, the carcasses are easy enough without a dedicated jig to set up the cuts.

If I ever go back to a table saw, and absolutely need repeatable precision, I'll go with an Incra fence. I have their router system and it's total overkill except for the joinery which is very cool.

Someone also mentioned Sommerfeld. If I had a customer who demanded the best and was willing to pay for it, I'd be happy to use his tongue and groove method. You get a very solid, high quality product. In some ways, it's over-built but would be perfect for free standing pieces.

Regarding templates for countertops, my last sub-contractor used a laser and computer to "shoot" the measurements and create a digital template that he later fed into a CNC which cut the granite. It took only minutes compared to the old method. Made me feel obsolete!
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