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Old 01-12-2015, 10:24 AM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lexington, Ky
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Default straight and simple

Usually, when cutting out a door opening after sheathing over the door framing, I'll just use the reciprocating saw, using the cripple studs as a guide for the saw blade. Gets the job done quickly, and the erratically-cut edges will be covered by the exterior door casing/trim. Sometimes, tho, I need to keep the cut straighter and more precise- that's where EZ comes in.

pic one shows EZ track mounted vertically to the exterior wall sheathing. After marking my cut line, I set the laser on that line, align the EZ track to the laser, fasten the track thru the triangular mounting plate located in the outer edge of the EZ track. (see pic 3)

pic two shows the track in position for the horizontal cut.

pic three shows the mounting bracket.

pic four shows the completed opening.

While I could have made the cuts freehand and gotten close, it didn't take that much longer to mount the track, and the cuts came out perfect.

Rick
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  #2  
Old 01-12-2015, 02:26 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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I like the track brackets. EZ should sell something like that.
Good idea. I don't care if the sheathing is cut back a little from the framing but hate it when a bump in the the erratically cut sheathing sticks out past the framing and your shims get hung up on it. Really hate in when, purely by coincidence, the framing is plumb and you don't need shims but you've got these bumps in the sheathing that are in the way.
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:03 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Nice ste-up Rick, wish I'd seen that (and EZ) when I was rebuilding my garage. I closed in one of the roll-up doors and put a window in it's place and had to cut out a damaged section of sheathing at the header. I used the old standby - a piece of Masonite with a plywood straightedge screwed to it and the whole assembly screwed to the garage. The cut was longer that 8' so I had to cut partway and then move the guide - I used a laser to mark the end points of the cut and then chalk-lined it, made it easy as all I had to do was line the edge up with the chalk line.

On your brackets, I wonder if it would be overkill to make the brackets out of nylon (or similar) and machine the edge to slide into the groove in the edge of the track - I think Dik did something similar when making his own ACE. A setscrew through the edge in the same way as you have the bolts would tighten down in the bottom of the groove and push the bracket against the inside lip of the groove.

Tom
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:23 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Lexington, Ky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
I like the track brackets. EZ should sell something like that.
Good idea. I don't care if the sheathing is cut back a little from the framing but hate it when a bump in the the erratically cut sheathing sticks out past the framing and your shims get hung up on it. Really hate in when, purely by coincidence, the framing is plumb and you don't need shims but you've got these bumps in the sheathing that are in the way.
Sean, agreed- been there; done that.....
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Old 01-12-2015, 05:28 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Lexington, Ky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Nice ste-up Rick, wish I'd seen that (and EZ) when I was rebuilding my garage. I closed in one of the roll-up doors and put a window in it's place and had to cut out a damaged section of sheathing at the header. I used the old standby - a piece of Masonite with a plywood straightedge screwed to it and the whole assembly screwed to the garage. The cut was longer that 8' so I had to cut partway and then move the guide - I used a laser to mark the end points of the cut and then chalk-lined it, made it easy as all I had to do was line the edge up with the chalk line.

On your brackets, I wonder if it would be overkill to make the brackets out of nylon (or similar) and machine the edge to slide into the groove in the edge of the track - I think Dik did something similar when making his own ACE. A setscrew through the edge in the same way as you have the bolts would tighten down in the bottom of the groove and push the bracket against the inside lip of the groove.

Tom
Tom, good call on the nylon/other. Not sure how sturdy it would be, but worth a try. It would definitely aid in quickly sliding into the track edge- may have to do some 'experimenting'......

When cutting something that is longer than the track, merely positioning the brackets in a way that allows one to cut, loosen brackets, slide track, refasten brackets, finish cutting, makes it go quicker.
Rick
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