The Track Saw Forum  

Go Back   The Track Saw Forum > The Track Saw Forum > Track System Power Tools and Dust Collection

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-17-2016, 12:24 PM
Shepp Shepp is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 3
Default Hate to post this here

I may be missing something but I do not see a way to create a new thread, I ordered a porter cable saw with the ez base already installed, at the front, the saw base is flush against the outer lip of the ez base, at the back the two bases have a gap of about an 1/8 of an inch. When I cut a 45 degree angle, one side lines up, but if you flip them over there is a big gap. I emailed Dino more than 2 weeks ago and received no response, I emailed Bruce last Friday with pictures and I have not heard back, today when I call it just continues to ring.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-17-2016, 12:52 PM
philb philb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 153
Default Photos will help

Shepp: I moved your post to a new thread. Please post some photos so that we can understand what the problem is and offer solutions.
__________________
Phillip
Forum Administrator
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-17-2016, 03:24 PM
Shepp Shepp is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 3
Default

Here are the photos to help explain, thanks
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0917.JPG
Views:	119
Size:	75.5 KB
ID:	6928   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0916.JPG
Views:	107
Size:	77.6 KB
ID:	6929   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0919.JPG
Views:	103
Size:	86.6 KB
ID:	6930   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0920.JPG
Views:	110
Size:	86.2 KB
ID:	6931  
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-17-2016, 03:31 PM
coryrc coryrc is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 18
Default

Do you have calipers? If so, can you measure from the blade to the track mount at both the front and the back of the blade?

I spent at least an hour setting up my saw. It was pretty fiddly. But it's within 3 thousandths straight .
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-17-2016, 03:43 PM
kenk kenk is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 250
Default

The relationship between the saw base and the EZ base is not important. What IS important is the relationship between the blade and the EZ base - the blade and the rail guide(s) should be perfectly parallel. I'd check the distances from the blade to the edge of the EZ base AND the distances from the edge of the EZ base to the rail guide underneath the base (just in case there was a flaw in the EZ base molding).

Also, don't forget to check to make sure the blade is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the EZ base .. and to the wood surface. Hopefully the saw blade (unplugged!!) does not wobble, nor does the EZ base wobble on the rail - which would impact the cut.

The first picture of the miter joint looks odd - like its not a straight cut across the entire cut - maybe the rear of the blade damaged the cut?? - which seems like it could happen if you are trying to force a slightly non-parallel blade in a straight line through the wood (if that makes sense)

The second picture of the miter joint makes me wonder if the blade is also not perpendicular (90 degrees) with respect to the surface of the wood.

Ken K.

Last edited by kenk; 11-17-2016 at 03:47 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-17-2016, 04:23 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,213
Default

Sorry to hear that you're not getting a response from EZ.
As other have said the only critical thing is to make sure your blade is parallel the slot in the bottom of the EZ track. It doesn't matter if the saw base is parallel to the edge of the EZ base.
Also it doesn't look like your cut is square (90 degrees). Make sure your saw blade is 90 degrees to it's base. Extend the blade all the way, flip the saw over and put a square between blade and base. The other thing and most likely the problem is that you need to sand the bottom of the anti chip insert that's in the EZ base and rides on the saw track. In a lot of cases they're too thick so when you push your saw on the track the insert lifts that side of the saw up off the track a little which makes your cut not square. It's a common problem. To fix that gently push your saw onto the the track and see if you feel it bump up when that insert hits the track.This is easier to feel if you first take the anti chip insert out of your track so the blade isn't rubbing on it adding friction. If so put a piece of about 120 grit sandpaper on your track and then slide your saw back and forth on that, stop when you feel only a little bump up. Remove the sandpaper and try sliding the saw on again.Work at it until the saw slides smoothly.
On the picture of your joint where it's mostly closed. First off I wouldn't expect a CS on an EZ track to get you consistent picture frame quality cuts. I've had the same thing happen to me and have struggled for a complete solution. First make sure your blade is perfectly parallel the slot in the EZ base. I know dull blades make it worse. I'm pretty sure the problem is blade flex, either from a dull blade, a little slop in the spindle bearings or the fact that the saw can wiggle a little on the track. You get that funny fade in the cut as the blade loads/unloads as cut pressure changes. So you see it at the beginning but mostly at the end of a cut. I think the solution will take a little detective work on your part to determine the cause.
Good luck, keep us posted on your progress
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-17-2016, 05:31 PM
philb philb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 153
Default Blade square

Shepp: check your blade squareness on the shaft. The open end of the inside of the miter cut is due to not being square blade mounting. The first part of the cut is the blade making the lead cut. The tail end where the cut bellows out is due to the opposite cut cutting the second time. Sliding bevel cut miter saws are 12" blades for that reason. Avoid the second rotation of the blade cutting into the wood. If you are set square on the saw shaft, then make sure that you cut through the wood completely so that the saw enters and exits completely without shifting the cut or hesitation.

To help you get some better understanding of the problems, search, using advanced search options, look for "saw blades" as the subject or try any posting by "philphoto" and find the Saw Blades thread. Philphoto was my join up member profile. My daughter has a tool sharpening company and saw blades was one of her main products. We went through hours of training on saw blade, and though we no longer sell blades, we do sharpen them. The various postings I made cover squaring the blade and how to determine you are square. Even a fraction out can mess up a miter cut. If you are using a low grade or builders grade saw blade you can not square them. I have micrometers for roundness of a blade and low grade blades are not square, plus they are out of round. I have seen .125" out of round! Try and make a square, clean cut with that!

As the others have said -- the only thing that matters on the base is the blade being perfectly square to the GROOVE, NOT the edge of the track but the groove and rib that the groove rides on.

This brings up another point that Dik addresses, and that is technique. Do not tighten up the slide along the track, or loosen the slide. You need to practice until you can make a cut in a smooth, single motion slide. This is a technique you need on track or off.
I hope I have been some help,
__________________
Phillip
Forum Administrator
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-17-2016, 05:47 PM
Shepp Shepp is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 3
Default

Thanks for all the replies, I will try some suggestions ,asap, as of right now, I know the blade is sitting almost perfect, it is at 90.2 in reference to the ez base. Thanks again, I will let you know
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-17-2016, 06:36 PM
Dino Dino is offline
Master Carpenter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 5,048
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shepp View Post
I may be missing something but I do not see a way to create a new thread, I ordered a porter cable saw with the ez base already installed, at the front, the saw base is flush against the outer lip of the ez base, at the back the two bases have a gap of about an 1/8 of an inch. When I cut a 45 degree angle, one side lines up, but if you flip them over there is a big gap. I emailed Dino more than 2 weeks ago and received no response, I emailed Bruce last Friday with pictures and I have not heard back, today when I call it just continues to ring.
hi Shepp,
I don't see any email yet.what email do you use?
thanks
dino
__________________
ycf dino
eurekazone.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-18-2016, 01:39 PM
JamesMac JamesMac is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 50
Default No phone service

Hi All,

I see that web site is updated to show some pre-Black Friday sales. I had a question about my order and have been trying to call them. The toll free number gives a fast busy signal and the office number has been disconnected. Does anyone have the scoop on what is going on? The web site does not mention anything about phones being down.

thanks,
Jim
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 04:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.