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  #1  
Old 12-31-2016, 09:22 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
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Default Bosch CS10 and Next saw suggestions

For those who don't know I started off with a Skil 5350 but its age and wear made it too sloppy, so I ran out to Lowes and bought what looked to my eye like something that would be easy to attach a base plate to and it was on sale so I got it.

One of the features of this saw is a set of detentes. When trying to set the depth on this saw if it is anywhere near one of these detentes it is pulled into it. That is making setting it for trimming the ACT a real pain in the anatomy Does anyone know how to defeat this feature? Not that I will have often need to set such a depth, but it would be nice to know if someone already figured out how.

At some point, I would like this saw to perhaps be relegated to just UEG use at which point I would like a suggestion on what the best bang for the buck is as a dedicated saw for use on the track, unless this would be better to use on the track and a better second saw to be relegated to the UEG since I have determined that I do not like attaching and removing the saw from the UEG.

Is it better to get a EZ Ready saw from EZ or buy a saw and the parts from EZ to "ready" it?

And what about the actual EZ saw? I am confused by the different messages I have seen about it, and I don't see an EZ one that is also EZ ready.
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  #2  
Old 12-31-2016, 10:47 PM
kenk kenk is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
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I have two EZ-ready saws - one purchased new from Eurekazone (the Hitachi) and one purchased used along with a used EZ-One (the Makita 5007MGA).

The Hitachi come with the older style base (the black one), and I wanted to mate it up full-time with a UEG, so I recently removed the original old style base and installed a new base (the gray one).

So, my first thought is that it was pretty darn easy to install the new base, though I did have to go buy two longer bolts for the thicker part of the original saw base (Eurekazone ships two different lengths). My biggest concern was accurate hole drilling - I did that using self-centering drill bits. The how-to video by Eurekazone (with Laney) is a must see for this.

My second thought is about the dust port. I have not installed this myself, but Dino put a video out there somewhere that shows how to do it. I found them Googling "EZ smart dust port". It seems doable.

If you do get an EZ Ready saw, look at the on-track depth of cut (Eurekazone is listing that now). I myself want that the depth to be enough to cut a 2x? board ... 1.5 inches.
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  #3  
Old 12-31-2016, 10:54 PM
michaelJ michaelJ is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
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Bang for the buck takes on many different forms for many people. I look at ROI or return on investment.

An expensive tool that eases your headaches, is durable, accurate and easily repaired or sold down the road can some times be less expensive overall than a 'cheap' saw.

That being said, if you have clamps, a drill and are careful, you can purchase your own saw and mount a base on it. An 8/32 tap will help out, as will 2 way tape to help hold the base firm while clamped.

If your time is money, and you simply want to use a tool, then by all means, get an EZ ready saw.

Depending on your needs, you might want to check the depth of cut on the rail.

I have a Makita 5007MG that I mounted on the base. It's depth of cut with the original blade will give your enough to cut through a 2x4.

The rear bushings for the plunge were quite loose from factory, I made a new one piece bushing out of solid stock. Between the bolt and the ID of the sleeve, and the sleeve OD and the ID of the plastic handle there was about .100 of slop I took out.

As far as accuracy, the deeper the cut, the more accurate with the Makita 5007, since the bracket is a bit on the light side for the rear of the base and can flex with side pressure. When the base gets closer, the length of bracket shortens and becomes stiffer.

5007 NB has less depth of cut, flat aluminum base
5007 MG, magnesium base, deeper cut
5007 MGA is the same, but with brake ( if that makes a difference to you )
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  #4  
Old 12-31-2016, 11:46 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Lexington, Ky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post

One of the features of this saw is a set of detentes. When trying to set the depth on this saw if it is anywhere near one of these detentes it is pulled into it. That is making setting it for trimming the ACT a real pain in the anatomy Does anyone know how to defeat this feature? Not that I will have often need to set such a depth, but it would be nice to know if someone already figured out how.
Can't tell for sure, but looking at the schematic for your saw http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bos...1138_1146.html I'm wondering if part # 53 is meant to align in the detents in the saw depth arm. If so, just remove it. The depth setting will then not be forced into pre-determined detents. One of my saws incorporated a small ball bearing that indexed into detents; once removed, no problems.
Rick
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  #5  
Old 01-01-2017, 03:01 AM
WatchurFingers WatchurFingers is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 27
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Is it worth it to have a dedicated saw on the UEG? How much use are you going to get out of it? Do you need to go to any locations, where you will not have power and need it to be cordless?
For me, I don't use it enough to justify two saws. I would like cordless, but that is an unjustified expense. The grey base, makes it easy enough to install and remove from the UEG (unscrew and drop on loosely).
Which is better to buy, well budget and needs be your guide as well as time. It would be worth it to know if they had what you needed in stock and shipping info, verses buying your tool elsewhere and installing yourself. Value of your time and your ability, verse "ready to go" out of the box. After having saws with and without brakes, I prefer to have a brake now, and a worm saw for demo jobs.

The EZ saw confuses me too. Old threads show what appears to be images of it, but don't match what is sold by Eurekazone. Then more recent posts, talk about some other saw, to be the "EZ saw". So it appears to me, there seems to be unhappiness with what they sell or would like additional lines, without really giving that impression.
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  #6  
Old 01-01-2017, 04:00 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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Maybe worth it, maybe not. I guess I am trying to understand the best way to fully utilize the whole "system" as a "system".

Goal for the week is to get square cuts with the saw on the track and get the ACE cut.
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  #7  
Old 01-02-2017, 01:48 AM
michaelJ michaelJ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
Maybe worth it, maybe not. I guess I am trying to understand the best way to fully utilize the whole "system" as a "system".

Goal for the week is to get square cuts with the saw on the track and get the ACE cut.
With a small accurate square, it is very easy to get the saw set at 90 degrees to the base plate.

Note, the square needs to contact the blade fully without engaging the teeth, and also sit on the baseplate. I used a small machinist's square.

When cutting the ACE, tape the ACE down to your sacrificial wood with a good quality masking tape, then cut reverse of normal, pulling the saw backwards towards you instead of pushing it. I used 3M masking tape made for autobody use, green in color, Scotch 233+.

If you don't feel comfortable pulling the saw back towards you for the cut through the ACE edge, you could turn the blade around on the saw and push as normal, once you are done trimming the ACE, you can switch it back.

Remove the saw from the rail, then peel off any additional tape left on the ACE.

You may need to lightly sand your AC-2 insert, mine was a bit proud of flush with the base, no worries, it sands easily. I simply put down a bit of P180 self adhesive sandpaper on the rail, and moved the saw back and forth a few times, checking progress as I went.

Clean the saw base and set it on the rail with blade up to make sure it sits flat.

I am contemplating a second saw, even if it doesn't get used a whole lot simply for the fact that it takes a few minutes to move the saw on and off the UEG. Fine if you aren't in a hurry, or in a production environment.

If I was working with this system for a living and I had many repeat cuts to do with the UEG, I would have several saws each, with a UEG dedicated to a certain dimension.

You may want to make some test cuts before embarking on a project, especially with expensive materials. I cut up some inexpensive B2 Birch ply before I start with Baltic Birch. Cut quality is very, very nice with a 40T Freud Diablo.
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  #8  
Old 01-02-2017, 09:47 AM
michaelJ michaelJ is offline
 
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Not sure where the OP is located, but I was just checking out the flyers for my area.

Home Depot in Canada has a sale on the Dewalt DWE575 ( model without brake ) for $99 right now. The model with brake ( DWE575SB ) is a cool $ 100 more. Ouch.

Home Depot in the U.S. ( Duluth, MN pricing ) is $ 119 for the same saw.
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  #9  
Old 01-03-2017, 12:35 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I got the saw cutting somewhat 90 but there seems to be a bit of a wiggle somewhere along the line. Definitely not like cutting on a TS with a fence. I am not sure the saw itself is wiggling relative to its base or the EZ base or the ez-base is wiggling on the track. That will take more work and exploration and experimentation.

I was able to get the strips taped down and cut. They didn't explode this time and so I guess that is a better thing. I am not confident they align to the cut line 100% but I am willing to give them a pass for the time being.

Yeah, I am not doing this for a living, and it is a good thing because if I were depending on it I would be in trouble.
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  #10  
Old 01-03-2017, 12:37 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelJ View Post
Not sure where the OP is located, but I was just checking out the flyers for my area.

Home Depot in Canada has a sale on the Dewalt DWE575 ( model without brake ) for $99 right now. The model with brake ( DWE575SB ) is a cool $ 100 more. Ouch.

Home Depot in the U.S. ( Duluth, MN pricing ) is $ 119 for the same saw.
I am in NC, USA. I can get that saw here as well. Is that a recommendation or is it the one you use? Is it better than this Bosch CS10?
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