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  #11  
Old 09-14-2013, 12:50 AM
Ivanhoe Ivanhoe is offline
 
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I would love to see a shot on how the fin is installed. For the life of me I cannot figure it out. I just use it without it.

Rod
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2013, 09:30 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Slide it into place after removing the one of two fins that does not align with the blade. I'm not using mine as the fin is wider then the blade, although I could take the time to file or sand it thinner.

I would suggest to use the tabs for blade alignment rather then trying to shoot the line from the fin. Any of the countersinks from stores would work, either countersinks only or the ones with a drill in the center. The width of the countersink can be dependent on how deep you use it. Without prior experience a few test runs on soft wood is suggested.

I did not have any instructions with mine either, but doing mechanical / carpentry work all my life it was easy to figure out. I can sympathize with those who are not as this is not a pull and play tool and could be daunting, especially with fastening the saw to the base. For those it would be better to buy a pre-mounted saw or send their saw to the factory to have it mounted.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2013, 09:36 AM
Sven Sven is offline
 
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Location: Woodstock, Illinois
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Sven,

You don't need anything fastening the EZ base to the thin side of your saw's base. Three screws into the beefy part of the saws base are sufficient. The screws just hold the saw in alignment with the slot in which the track ridge rides.
Thanks Dik, that makes things much easier.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:16 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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The fin on my UEG will not line up with the blade kerf - it wound up to the left of the kerf with the saw base all the way to the right of the UEG base (see attached photos). The only way to get the two in alignment would be to machine some material off the saw base (Hitachi C7BMR).

I've used the UEG to break down a sheet of plywood to make a corner cabinet, no problems without the fin so far, but I guess I'll have to stick with cutting the plywood lying flat. I'm thinking that it would be possible to modify a blank insert to put a fin in the correct place - make a cut in the plywood, come in from the bottom and mark the location of the kerf on the face of the insert. Use the mark on the face of the insert to cut a groove and then glue in a fin - a new fin could be made by cutting out a fin from a standard insert, leaving material on either side of the fin to give a "T"-shape; this would give enough glue surface to provide some strength. And then go ahead and "fit the thickness of the fin to the saw kerf - not sure it's worth the effort if I'm not going to be cutting plywood when it's vertical like Dino did in his video.

Tom
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2013, 11:24 AM
ten fingers ten fingers is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
The fin on my UEG will not line up with the blade kerf - it wound up to the left of the kerf with the saw base all the way to the right of the UEG base (see attached photos). The only way to get the two in alignment would be to machine some material off the saw base (Hitachi C7BMR).

I've used the UEG to break down a sheet of plywood to make a corner cabinet, no problems without the fin so far, but I guess I'll have to stick with cutting the plywood lying flat. I'm thinking that it would be possible to modify a blank insert to put a fin in the correct place - make a cut in the plywood, come in from the bottom and mark the location of the kerf on the face of the insert. Use the mark on the face of the insert to cut a groove and then glue in a fin - a new fin could be made by cutting out a fin from a standard insert, leaving material on either side of the fin to give a "T"-shape; this would give enough glue surface to provide some strength. And then go ahead and "fit the thickness of the fin to the saw kerf - not sure it's worth the effort if I'm not going to be cutting plywood when it's vertical like Dino did in his video.

Tom
I had the same problem with the same saw. It didn't end particularly well. I do cut pieces vertically but what I ended up doing is cutting several inches, turn the saw off, insert a shim and then continue on.
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  #16  
Old 09-14-2013, 11:57 AM
Chad_C Chad_C is offline
 
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I have the Hitachi and I have the same problems as well. The fin does not line up with the blade by about the same amount as yours. The amount of effort to try to make it work I didn't think would be worth it. To bad too because I thought it was a good idea.
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  #17  
Old 09-14-2013, 01:59 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sven View Post
Ok, Burt. I just won't have any holding over the entire skinny side (right side in the picture). I guess the weight of the saw when in use should be ok. I'll have to pick up a countersink. What size would you recommend or do you know the size that came with the base? Thanks.
I assume you are talking about bolt size. I believe that is an 8-32.


Burt
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  #18  
Old 09-14-2013, 02:16 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Location: Edison NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
The fin on my UEG will not line up with the blade kerf - it wound up to the left of the kerf with the saw base all the way to the right of the UEG base (see attached photos). The only way to get the two in alignment would be to machine some material off the saw base (Hitachi C7BMR).

I've used the UEG to break down a sheet of plywood to make a corner cabinet, no problems without the fin so far, but I guess I'll have to stick with cutting the plywood lying flat. I'm thinking that it would be possible to modify a blank insert to put a fin in the correct place - make a cut in the plywood, come in from the bottom and mark the location of the kerf on the face of the insert. Use the mark on the face of the insert to cut a groove and then glue in a fin - a new fin could be made by cutting out a fin from a standard insert, leaving material on either side of the fin to give a "T"-shape; this would give enough glue surface to provide some strength. And then go ahead and "fit the thickness of the fin to the saw kerf - not sure it's worth the effort if I'm not going to be cutting plywood when it's vertical like Dino did in his video.

Tom
Hi Tom.
My fault using a prototype and later making mod's for the base without trying all saws out here.
Looks like we have a good fix but we need few more days.
removing the lip on the base allows the blade and Fin to align better.
stay tuned and we will fix it asap.

tx
d
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  #19  
Old 09-14-2013, 03:31 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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With the picture, now I get the problem. Looks like abrasion tools are in need.
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Jack
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  #20  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:20 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
Hi Tom.
My fault using a prototype and later making mod's for the base without trying all saws out here.
Looks like we have a good fix but we need few more days.
removing the lip on the base allows the blade and Fin to align better.
stay tuned and we will fix it asap.

tx
d
Dino,

At this point, not having the fin is not much of a problem (other than losing the safety benefit) - I set up a MultiForm Table Top on sawhorses just inside the workshop door, back my truck up to the door and slide the plywood off the back of the truck onto the cutting table. This lets me cut the plywood without actually lifting the sheet, all I wind up lifting are the pieces after cutting to size, both length and width. I was able to cut all the pieces for a diagonal corner cabinet right on the table without any heavy lifting, including cutting the dadoes for the shelves in the side panels. The UEG certainly makes breaking down a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood very quick and easy, probably quicker than I could do in the old days on my Unisaw before my back gave out on me - although I'm not ready to get rid of the Unisaw yet.

Tom
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