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Old 03-15-2018, 01:11 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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Default How important is a brake on a saw

I am looking at the 5007MG* with the MGA being with break and MG being without.

I know it is merely a $50 difference. But what is it actually good for? Is it better to have on the track or the UEG, or does it just matter if the blade guard is not disabled?
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:22 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
I am looking at the 5007MG* with the MGA being with break and MG being without.

I know it is merely a $50 difference. But what is it actually good for? Is it better to have on the track or the UEG, or does it just matter if the blade guard is not disabled?


On the track - take it or leave it.. saw always stays on the rail

Ueg - I definitely want a brake because it is more of a free-hand tool.. once I finish the cut I set it down on the floor or table
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Old 03-15-2018, 04:31 PM
kenk kenk is offline
 
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Here is a short description of how the brakes work. It sounds like the saw motor is basically energized in reverse for a short time after releasing the trigger. The stop time drops from 12 seconds to 2 seconds.

https://www.protoolreviews.com/news/...ke-work/25223/
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:47 AM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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I'm with Tofu for the same reason he gave. The break will be the most helpful on the UEG.

And yes, it's worth the extra $50 to me. That's 10 seconds less I will wait and worry about injury or damage when setting the saw down after a cut. And I make a lot of cuts.
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:43 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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brake is a must but not without a small issue that we can overcome.
The reverse polarity? creates vibration and is best to stop the saw
after exits the materials.

Otherwise you may have a small marks?
Even on the track brake is much better.

here comes another "issue" with brakes edges....for the perfectionists.
If you stop the cut half way, you may have a small variation on the marking.
same goes with the plunge saws.

The solution is to have a simple jig ( adjustable story stick) 2"-4"
capacity and always have the exact cut line.
Even if your edge is 1/64"-1/32" shorter than your cut line...
the pressure applied by the edge is going to keep the cut very clean.

On the bevel cuts...no antichip protection needed because the materials are
cut sideways and no lift-up forces are applied to the materials.
the more the bevel-the less chipping.
But you can use the edges and inserts for better stability
and flatter ( straighter) cut.

In some cases and woods the shrinkage +- of the wood makes no difference if your cut is off by 1/32"-1/16".

Working with wood a good woodworker he must learn everything about wood
before the tools. The VG ( Vertical Grain ) wood is best because the wood
doesn't expend and contract sideways.
The White House and all wooded boats and ships are made of VG white Oak.

My first and big 50.000 SF Factory was to take all the White Oak scraps
from the mills and other factories for the cost of shipping...
and turn them into small strips of VG cut to size flooring strips.
Due to 10M loss in a fire ( Wood sold in EU-AU and Japan. ready to be shipped)
I just don't want to see wood again for few years....
But the tricks and modifications of Industrial machinery to handle the unusual
and unequal size scraps....using special pressure plates and "fingers"
to hold the scrap wood under pressure while cutting with
10 Bladed 60 HP gang saws....Thanks to Jerald....
give me few ideas how to start EZ...and the Dead Wood Concept.

The best ez Tool? The smart clamping system.
Imagine making a tapered cut on a 2" strip?
Or even de-facing the veneer to make your own edging from scraps?
Why do that? Better matching with staining.
why buy edge banding that is expensive and looks different?
----------------------------------------------------------------------
What that has to do with the electric brake and tRump?
The first is education...the tRump side is just a worry that I may sound like it....
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Last edited by Dino; 03-16-2018 at 03:47 PM.
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