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Old 09-12-2014, 11:02 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,259

I'd go through the process of squaring the base piece and adjusting my Square until is was right. Then slide your fence piece up against the rail and screw it down.

Originally Posted by RJS1948 View Post
Please explain how you cut the rectangular piece of lumber with a 2 x 4 screwed onto the rectangular piece of lumber. I can visualize Cut 1, Laying the EZ square against plywood edge and the EZ track against the 2x4, but for cut number 2 how to you rotate the board and make cut when the 2x4 is now in the way of the EZ track. I understand the process but can't visualize how you rotate the plywood rectangular lumber and make cuts 2 and 4 as the 2x4 is in the way.... maybe the board is flipped over and you make all 4 cuts on the side w/out the 2x4. Kindly explain... Your response is appreciated...

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Old 09-14-2014, 03:06 AM
ant ant is offline
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 41

I am looking forward to trying this technique on my ez-one!!

As for some of the comments regarding the UEG, I don't think there's that much going on to square. the important thing is that the guide is parallel to your saw blade. If you can trust the measurement markings on the bars, and you can line up the indicators on your base, and trust that those indicators are parallel to your saw blade, you will be fine.

Squaring is primarily important for fences. The UEG is not using a fence. it's riding parallel to one side of the board, so after your cut you're left with two parallel sides. The two ends you didn't cut, may or may not be parallel.

P.S. I think I read somewhere that said Dino doesn't like fences. We can move away from fences by taking measurements from the guide rail using some sort of jig as some people have done before with incra tracks, and then set the stops to the jig measurement. This way, you don't use the fence rail on the ez one at all, and you just set your piece to the stops and you will know that the sides will be parallel after your cut, as you would have with the UEG.

I hope that Dino/Laney make a measuring/repeating device for the ez-one that indexes off the guide rail!
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Old 09-15-2014, 03:18 PM
Evan G Evan G is offline
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 29

I think that TomP's method of using aluminum is superior to wood. I store my jig outside in a humid environment, and a week later, I was off by 20 thousands. That's not much, but more than I'd like, so I'll try with an aluminum angle and add adjustability.

RJS1948, I think you misunderstood something. The jig with the wood or aluminum in TomP's case is used to set the square. Then, you make the series of 5 cuts on a different piece of 'test' wood. I will keep the test piece around to check the square before doing something I care a lot about.

If you google '5 cut method check square,' you will see many references to using this method to check or set the square on a table saw sled. I thought the original linked video provided a clear explanation that people could apply to setting the ez square.
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Old 09-16-2014, 06:15 PM
ant ant is offline
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 41

I did the 5 cut test on my ez-one to calculate my error ratio and I was off by about 1/16". the blade depth gauge can be used a stop so that the bridge can be shifted over to the right spot.

It would be nice if Laney/dino made a video on how to test their ez-one's fence using this method or a similar one . I remember one of my greatest frustrations to starting off with using the ez one was when I cut stuff and it would be slightly off, even though my aluminum "square" was flush with the fence stop and the bridge !
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squaring set-up

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