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Old 11-29-2018, 12:43 PM
JamesMac JamesMac is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
Default Guide Rails

Hi All,

I have been thinking about some minor issues I have had with my guiderails, so I got my new caliper out along with a straightedge.

I have several guide rails in varying lengths….36”, two 54”, 65” and the 72” rail on my EZ1.

The center raised ridge of the rail that the saw base rides on is dead-on straight on all of my rails except I have some rocking on one side of the center ridge on my 64” rail, but only on 1 side. I used two different straight edges for testing, one being my woodpeckers 48” rule.

My new calipers did show some variance in the width of the track along the length of the tracks on all of my tracks but some tracks have more than others. The variances are slight and this is woodworking and not a machine shop, so perhaps I am being too critical.

I am thinking that as long as the center ridge is straight, then my cuts will be straight and it does NOT really matter if the rails have slight variations in overall width etc. I guess in theory, the edges of the rails could be wavy and still get straight cuts as long as the center raised rib of the track is straight.

I have not decided yet if my 65” rail is enough of an issue to ask for replacement. I have more testing to do.

But here is a potential bigger issue. If I was using the edge of the rails to square them up with the fence on the EZ1 than I guess that could be a problem if the edge is not perfect and I should really be using the raised center ridge to square that to the fence instead of the edge of the guide rail.

Here is how I have been trying to square my miter square and handle combo to the guide rail..I slide a raised fence from my EZ1 into the miter square and use my woodpeckers 18” triangle against that fence and also to the edge of the guide rail. Now, I am thinking that because the tracks have slight variances in width etc over the length of them, that I should always be squaring any guide rail using the center raised rib and NOT the edge of the track.

Am I overthinking this? In all honesty, I have not used my gear enough to be highly proficient at it yet. I plan on making some of the great jigs like story sticks, cut line indicators and squaring jigs that I have seen people on the forum make. I love how solid and tough the EZ stuff is, but there is definitely a learning curve, at least for me.

Thanks,
Jim
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  #2  
Old 11-29-2018, 06:30 PM
Dino Dino is online now
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 5,152
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Jim.
Your thoughts and ideas are on target.
I will go as far to promote 2 pieces of track instead of one piece for over 60"
Extrusions are pulled from melted bullets.
the manufacturers have standard tolerances and all ez extrusions exceed the
standard not because they use any jigs but due to the Box Design.

with two layers and box construction you have straighter extrusions.
the rest is up to you.
the only components that need to be square or parallel...
is the one's in use that effect the travelers ( slides)

By trimming the edges you have even less movement,
If you had the rubber strips with glue...you need a yearly budget to replace the edges every few months. The antiskid...every week.
I just received a feedback and re-order from a customer that I will post here.
from 2013? or 2003?
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2018, 11:40 AM
JamesMac JamesMac is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 70
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Thanks Dino...

Since it is best to not trust the track edge and use the center ridge of the track when aligning for a critical cut, does EZ have any plans to sell a sort of "cut line indicator" that rides the center ridge of the track?

it seems that would be a very useful item and would be a great seller.

thanks,
Jim
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Old 12-01-2018, 01:37 PM
Dino Dino is online now
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 5,152
Default The Hydra.

James,
the standard in the ez cut is 3" from the center ridge wall.
We can easily make 3" strips with a screw?
or a knife...maybe a pencil marker?

Why not? one that can be adjusted for other tools and uses.
with so mach going on to finalize the entire ez into a hand help setup
and combine all ez and not ez tools in one...for sure we will need it.

I need a break from Hydra and make few simple jigs.
Anyone remember the setup that we first had? The ez Hydra?
where we had 4-5 tools inline?

thanks.
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  #5  
Old 12-01-2018, 05:41 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
James,
the standard in the ez cut is 3" from the center ridge wall.
The 3" dimension is to the face of the blade plate, the actual cut will be slightly shorter, by the overhang of the carbide tooth.

To use a gauge to locate from the marked cut line, you would need one for each end of the track. It's easy to make a pretty accurate gauge using some scrap MDF (or whatever) and a strip of aluminum (should have a square edge to give better accuracy).

- clamp the track to a piece of plywood and make a cut to establish where the saw/blade/base combination actually cuts.

- take two strips slightly thicker than the height of the center ridge on the track and clamp them alongside the ridge. Put some double-stick tape on the top.

- cut a piece of 1/4" MDF about 6" long and wider than the distance from the cut line to past the outer strip on the track.

- add a second piece to the bottom of this piece with thickness equal to the distance from the top of the strips on the track to the plywood piece. Cut a rabbet along the edge to accept the piece of aluminum strip and glue/screw the aluminum to it. Attach this assembly to the underside of the 1/4" MDF.

- line the edge of the aluminum strip up with the edge of the plywood and press the MDF onto the double -sided tape on the strips clamped to the track.

- cut this assembly in half and you will have a gauge for each end of the track. Line the edge of the aluminum up with the marked cut line.

I use the gauge shown in the photo with the Cabinet Square - the scribed cut line on the plexiglas cursor is adjustable, and can be reset if a different blade is used.
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  #6  
Old 12-01-2018, 08:19 PM
Dino Dino is online now
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Nice, Simple and we can start making a similar one
with multiple uses.

tx for posting
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2018, 09:11 PM
aaronp aaronp is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 54
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That's much more efficient than my over engineered version.
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