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  #11  
Old 09-14-2018, 09:14 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Mine didn't come with any scale markings on the arm, guess it was an early model?

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I've always adjusted the rip width by leaning the assembly on the front arm - for consistency, this always keeps the saw base tight to the same arm - and just measure from the fence to the tip of a tooth. However, as Dino demonstrated in one of his EZ1 videos, I have some blocks of commonly used widths and set them against the fence and then butt the teeth against the edge - this has given real consistent results.

One thing I did do was move the orange handle from outside the fence to inside the fence, and made it adjustable. For me, this seems to help when making wider rips as I'm able to "pull" the fence tight to the edge of the plywood. Just seemed to be more ergonomic when reaching across on the wide rips to have the handle out there rather than under me, I feel that it gives me more control.

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I just drilled the original hole all the way through and added a short section of connector extrusion.

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  #12  
Old 09-14-2018, 10:31 AM
davehodge davehodge is offline
 
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Tom I like your idea but would maybe use a knob at each end then no tools needed!����
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2018, 12:08 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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@davehodge

I looked at that on my initial pass at the change - my original idea using some hardware I had lying around - but it was a little fussy so I went with the through bolt.

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I used a threaded hex connector thinking that I wanted the handle a little higher but it turned out to be better at the original height.

Doesn't take too long to loosen and retighten a couple of Philips screws, and it's not as if I'm constantly changing the position of the handle.

I haven't really had a chance to use it that much since I made the change (it really is intended for use when I'm ripping base cabinet sides, the original handle position was OK for narrow rips), but dry runs on a piece of plywood confirm that it seems to be more comfortable for me. I relocated the saw on the base - EZ did the original installation which was off by > 1/16" - so that the fin now lines up with the saw kerf, so I'm hoping that this helps too.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2018, 01:17 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
Here is a pic of my UEG with the blade all the way against the fence. Triangles mean nothing.
Looks like yours is calibrated to the blade, and wasser's is calibrated to the triangle
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  #15  
Old 09-24-2018, 07:32 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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No matter what, it's just easier to attach you own marker.

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?t=4274
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