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  #21  
Old 03-29-2014, 07:20 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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MSL, I did not use the factory mark. Here is the post in my UEG thread on how I set my mark.

http://www.tracksawforum.com/showpos...33&postcount=3
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  #22  
Old 03-29-2014, 08:19 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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Thanks TMT. Yeah, I guess that we have to accommodate for blade thickness no matter what. I don't see it being a big deal at this point. As long as it is a consistent adjustment each time, with the same blade of course.

I was thinking of getting a thicker kerf blade to combat the fin issue, and less flex in the blade. If I do, I will make sure to accommodate for this. Thanks again. Will give updates on the fin and rail/b-300 experience after tomorrow.
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  #23  
Old 03-29-2014, 08:43 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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I haven't used the fin yet.
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  #24  
Old 03-29-2014, 09:01 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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Fin only really needed on freehand and vertical maybe? I know the UEG cut smooth as glass after I took the fin off.
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  #25  
Old 03-30-2014, 05:12 AM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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I see the problem, I don't have the orange handle.

No, really, Jack is right, you don't use the indicator on the base. You could use a pencil mark on the base, or a piece of blue tape with a pencil mark as an indicator. I made an adjustable indicator out of plexiglass with a straight scratch on the underside, that can be moved to 0 when the fence is against the blade. I guess you could use a 2" setup block between the blade and the fence and then set the indicator to 2".

The fence should pass under the base so that you can touch the fence to the blade. Except for the color of the handle and the caps on the end of the handle, the units appear to be the same. Although I don't think mine has the crew through the lip on the back side of the fence. I'll have to check tomorrow. I used my UED yesterday to rip a 15 degree bevel on some 2x4s for the roof "joists" on a firewood shed I'm building. I have to have some place to store all the fire wood that got felled during the ice storm.
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Last edited by Dik Harrison; 03-30-2014 at 05:21 AM.
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  #26  
Old 03-30-2014, 09:39 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Dik's point about moving the blade to the fence and your pictures .....

You are showing the flat washers under the screw heads. There is a thread here about placing washers between the rails so there is more clearance for the base to slide sideways. Not sure if you have that issue.

I'd also suggest looking at the thread I created about re-drilling the holes so you move the rails tighter to the base as it allows for more precise alignment.
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  #27  
Old 03-30-2014, 09:50 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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Thanks Dik and TMT. I wasn't quite able to get as much time with the system as I wanted today. I did get the rail aci trimmed, and used the rail to crosscut my tops for my bench, and did use the UEG for a few rips. All cuts were without the fin, by the way. All cuts were sweet.

Anyway, I didn't get a look at these posts until now, and I have looked at the UEG setup that I have, and the base to fence does not allow for travel to the washers in question. I looked at the smart base underneath, and when fully flush with the side rails, it has a recess of around 1/32"-1/16" below the rails, which is causing it to bump the fence and stop.

Let me back up... when I received my UEG, and put it together, the first time I inserted the mounting connector bolts through the preset holes in the smart base, it was a very very tight install. I couldn't hardly get the saw back off of the UEG the first few times, but the plastic holes since then have become 'broke in' now.

Fast forward... I'm thinking that now, I can probably get the base to clear the fence when the wing nuts are loose, and the saw has a little play to get the small recess to clear the fence. Now the washers that were mentioned may be my next hiccup as far as being able to zero in. Not sure yet. Will update within the next few days.

And I will be sure to read the suggested post about re-drilling holes. I would like to add, for any newcomers/rookies, that this system DOES make you have to think a lot more during the learning how to use ez stages, but I can personally say, that once things start clicking, and coming together, that I am blown away by the ease, the cuts, and the accuracy. Oh well, I AM new, so it's not hard to impress me... if it works!
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  #28  
Old 03-30-2014, 10:24 PM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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I just read the 'flat washers on the UEG' thread, and that will definitely help I believe. If you put the washers between the fence and rails, instead of between the bolt and rail, then this should allow for clearance for the mounting rail connectors, and at the same time, give the fence a smidge more room to counter the recessed smart base. Correct?
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  #29  
Old 03-30-2014, 11:06 PM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Yep, correct. I was too lazy to find that thread for you.
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  #30  
Old 03-31-2014, 07:22 AM
Murphy S. Law Murphy S. Law is offline
 
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It's all good. But the 'search' function on this forum really needs improvement. You can't just type 'UEG' in the box. It comes up with nothing found.?
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