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  #11  
Old 09-04-2016, 07:36 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johare View Post
Thanks for your thoughts! Without the MAX setup how do you make longer rips if you dont have a good reference edge? What other tools did you have in your shop? Im intetested in experimenting with jointing and surface planing on the system, part of why I was thinking the MAX so i could rip longer boards.
Lastly I wrote Dino about this and he suggested the following:
"Jael. here is the list.
ez-1 with 2x4,4x4 legs. Make your own.
ssrk with all stops ( 4)
track saw system 114 ( 2 pieces)
UEG. with 5008 MGA saw. Makita
And a smart table kit.

a good start for a shop.


johare, The cabinetmaker (thanks Burt)
and the smart clamping upgrade.
You can always extend the ez-1 and combine tools.
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  #12  
Old 09-04-2016, 10:48 PM
kenk kenk is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 269
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For cutting 8 foot rips with a rail I recommend 54"+64" rails ... so you have the 64" rail for cutting 4' material, and 118" for the 8' cutting material. This combo gives a good "launch pad" for starting - a place to put the saw before moving it into the cut.

As long as you have the sacrificial surface you can just keep adding more rails to go longer ... recommended if longer than 110". Just to be safe, some people recommend checking the joint by using a good straight edge, but so far I've not had a problem - the joint is self-aligning.

If you will need to rip very narrow wood using a rail w/o the EZ-1, that's where the EZ Smart Clamp System (listed under the Smart Clamps menu) should be used.
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  #13  
Old 09-05-2016, 10:15 AM
Burt Burt is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sumter, SC
Posts: 3,682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johare View Post
Thanks for your thoughts! Without the MAX setup how do you make longer rips if you dont have a good reference edge? What other tools did you have in your shop? Im intetested in experimenting with jointing and surface planing on the system, part of why I was thinking the MAX so i could rip longer boards.
One of the strong points of the track saw is being able to use a rail to do a straight line rip cut.

We all choose different approaches to work. The larger PBB just didn't prove to be useful for me.


Burt
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  #14  
Old 09-05-2016, 12:41 PM
kenk kenk is offline
 
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Burt,

Have you tried both the Repeaters and the UEG?

I'm curious if you have, could you mention your thoughts on how they compare both in usage and results?

Ken K.
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  #15  
Old 09-05-2016, 01:01 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Location: Sumter, SC
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Originally Posted by kenk View Post
Burt,

Have you tried both the Repeaters and the UEG?

I'm curious if you have, could you mention your thoughts on how they compare both in usage and results?

Ken K.
I have used the repeaters a good bit and was in on the research and development of the UEG. Both are good tools. I found that once I had the UEG, the repeaters didn't get used. The UEG is lighter more compact and easier to store and work with. I didn't like having to find space to store the 8' of rails with the repeaters attached.


Burt
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  #16  
Old 09-06-2016, 12:15 AM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Balko, OK
Posts: 216
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A lot of good advice here already. Here's my two cents.

In my shop I mostly build cabinets, beds, doors, plantation shutters, build and repair furniture and make crafty items my wife finishes and sells.

I built my own bench out of 2x's and 3/4 ply with the bridge, 72" rail, and two lengths of SSME to mount the bridge. It's 4'x4' with a length of Kreg Miter track with a stop squared to the rail. I have an oversize shop made router table of the same height (with an Incra LS). I slide the two together for extra support when breaking down sheet goods. I also have the SSRK, UEG, and a 54" rail with an assortment of clamps. I even modified an Incra miter gauge to attach to the rail. I have a 3.25 PC on the SSRK and a second Skil on the UEG.

By designing my own system, buying only the pieces I needed, and building my own table, I saved money and got a system that uniquely suits my needs and is extremely solid and accurate.

My next saw will be the Makita 5008 with some kind of dust collection.

Point is - you may be better off designing and building your own table and system. And for providing the parts and pieces to do it, Eureka Zone is hands down the best.

Good luck!
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