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Old 02-22-2017, 02:31 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Austin, Tx.
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Default "Clip-on" EZ saw base

Recent discussion on the forum re. attaching EZ saw base got me to thinking. I have a # of saws; some without EZ bases; some with. Once attached, I rarely will remove one. There have been times, tho, when it would be nice to not have to lug around an EZ saw base version in addition to a saw without a base.

So, I got to thinking about making a clip-on version of an EZ base. Next stop: 'Igor's laboratory' (ie. the shop) and see what I can cobble together with a bit of scrap.

In the pics, I used a piece of ~5/16" wafer-board for my prototype; when I make the 'real' version, I'll probably use 1/4" HDPE.

Pic one shows the pieces of the base assembled on a piece of EZ track- wafer board snugging up to the raised portion of the track on either side, held in position by 1/8" thick material at the top and bottom edge. Slots routed/drilled on all sides/ends, as shown. Cut-out is for the saw guard and saw blade.

Pic two shows the saw being aligned with the EZ track groove on the new EZ saw base. I use the simple jig shown in the pic: block of wood that rides snugly in the EZ saw base groove, w/a screw inserted in the edge (shown at the black arrow, in pic). Using spring clamps, I'll hold the actual saw base to the EZ saw base and adjust till one tooth of the saw blade will just 'kiss' the screw head when in the rear and forward positions. (Using a bit of magic marker to mark the chosen tooth helps to locate it when rotating the saw blade from front to back and visa versa.) Once the saw blade is aligned with the setting jig, I move the two sliding stops on the EZ saw base (bottoms are visible in the pic) to just snug up against the saw base.

Once those stops are snug, I now have a two-point indexing for this saw, in this base, that will set the blade in proper position to the EZ track. In pic 3, you can see the two sliding stops abutting the saw base.

Also visible in pic 3 are the front and rear cleats that do the actual holding of the saw to the base. The angle is 30˚. Works well, but I might move it up to 40˚ in the final version. Each of the bolts holding the cleats can move in slots. (Slots can be seen in pics 1 & 2). This adjustment ability allows fuller contact between the saw base and the EZ saw base when one's saw base is not perfectly aligned with the saw blade. As an example, on this saw, turns out the actual saw base is ~1/16" not parallel to the saw blade. As shown in pic two, the saw blade must be set parallel to the EZ track to work correctly. To account for the non-parallel saw base, the slots at the cleats allow the cleats to pivot accordingly for maximum contact/clamping. So, once the side indexing pins are set, meaning the blade is parallel to the EZ track, the saw is slid back to the rear cleat, which is then adjusted for maximum contact w/the saw base, and tightened. Then, the front cleat is slid to the saw base and tightened. Your saw is now ready to use on the EZ track. For dis-assembly, loosen the front cleat and slide it out of the way while lifting the saw out of the EZ base; for re-assembly, set the saw on the base, against the side indexing pins, slide saw to the back cleat, slide the front cleat to the saw base, tighten knurled nuts on cleat.

Pic 4 shows another view of the assembled base. Notice the two dark spots on the lower edge of the saw base. I will also be installing sliding index pins at these points, like those used on the blade side, to help keep the saw aligned in case of bumps that might want to knock the saw base away from the right-side aligning pins.

So, how's it work? Well, after initial set-up, it takes ~15 seconds to release the saw from the EZ saw base, and ~30 seconds to replace it. Plus, once the saw is set up for this base, it should always be in same alignment when re-installed. The prototype convinces me that it will be worthwhile to make a 'permanent' version.
Rick
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  #2  
Old 02-22-2017, 03:09 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Default

Very nice Rick, looks like you've covered all the bases as far as providing for "automatic" re-indexing after the saw has been removed from the base. I'm guessing that you're going to put the block of 1/2" plywood at the front to provide the zero clearance feature.
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Old 02-22-2017, 04:58 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Austin, Tx.
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Very nice Rick, looks like you've covered all the bases as far as providing for "automatic" re-indexing after the saw has been removed from the base. I'm guessing that you're going to put the block of 1/2" plywood at the front to provide the zero clearance feature.
Hi, Tom! Thanks.

While the 1/2" block of Baltic could be added, in my case I will probably forgo it. I'm thinking of using this base more in a framing environment. (I have other saws already set up for finer work.....). Something like rough framing in the morning and then switch over to sheathing/siding in the afternoon. When I'm using EZ on the jobsite, it's usually CDX ply, or, Hardie, or, OSB, or, whatever. I've found that using a piece of chewed-up ACE in the EZ track is plenty accurate, and faster to set up for the cut than using other methods. Framing, tho, goes quicker w/no base on the saw. (Not forgetting the extra depth of cutting w/no base. )

I'd like to see an 'official' EZ version of this. One that allows use of AC-1 & 2 as well as the UEG and fin. Dino put out a call recently for "... more ideas..." (http://www.tracksawforum.com/showpos...7&postcount=35), so this is my (Igor's) contribution....
Rick
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Old 02-22-2017, 07:21 PM
Dino Dino is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edison NJ
Posts: 5,090
Default the next step...

I'd like to see an 'official' EZ version of this. One that allows use of AC-1 & 2 as well as the UEG and fin. Dino put out a call recently for "... more ideas..." (http://www.tracksawforum.com/showpos...7&postcount=35), so this is my (Igor's) contribution....
Rick


Hi Rick.
I like the way you think.
The bevel strips and the way you capture the base is very smart.
The same way we will make the final moduni saw base kit.
Front and two sides...with the rear strip straight.
with all the ex features and few more.
captive ( when and IF Needed) ...similar to the new Festool saw
but much better in all functions.
The captive/sliding function of Festool was
an EZ patent claim but not independent.

To patent all ez features the right way we needed 100 patents.
Yes. I asked for more ideas to re-direct ez to it's final form and make sure
that the ez guys are aboard.

Thanks for the pictures and for keeping ez alive.
__________________
ycf dino
eurekazone.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2017, 07:33 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, Tx.
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino View Post
I'd like to see an 'official' EZ version of this. One that allows use of AC-1 & 2 as well as the UEG and fin. Dino put out a call recently for "... more ideas..." (http://www.tracksawforum.com/showpos...7&postcount=35), so this is my (Igor's) contribution....
Rick


Hi Rick.
I like the way you think.
The bevel strips and the way you capture the base is very smart.
The same way we will make the final moduni saw base kit.
Front and two sides...with the rear strip straight.
with all the ex features and few more.
captive ( when and IF Needed) ...similar to the new Festool saw
but much better in all functions.
The captive/sliding function of Festool was
an EZ patent claim but not independent.

To patent all ez features the right way we needed 100 patents.
Yes. I asked for more ideas to re-direct ez to it's final form and make sure
that the ez guys are aboard.

Thanks for the pictures and for keeping ez alive.
Thanks, Dino. There's always room for improvement.......
Rick
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