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  #1  
Old 08-26-2015, 08:40 AM
TheBabyHuey TheBabyHuey is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 8
Unhappy Popping sound is my blade taking chunks out of edge

I've had a weird issue ever since I started with EZ. When I make a cut on my pbb, I get these aggressive popping / slapping sounds. Usually one as I first start, maybe one in the middle of the cut somewhere & one at the end.
I just realized that it's the sound of the blade taking occasional bites out of my Anti-Chip Edge
I have the orange EZ-Ready EZ-Smart saw, 54" track on a B-300 bridge. I don't remember this happening when clamping track strait to material.
I tend to wonder if there's too much wobble or play in the motor brearings... what else could be causing this?
Are y'all's Anti-Chip Edges smooth? Mine is jagged with little tiny chunks out of it

BTW: The saw pitch was dialed in to a perfect 90 and zero'ed.

PS: when my on-track insert contacts the material underneath, the whole saw shifts slightly up and to the left. That don't seem right. This doesn't seem to have anything to do with the popping/ACE problem though.

Thanks for any input! Bobby
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EZSMART saw, 54" & 36" rail, B-300 on DIY PBB, UEG, SSRK, 4 smrt clamps.
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2015, 12:49 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,226
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Ya, all my inserts have chips in them or are now short so they don't indicate the cut line. The inserts move around too much in track. If you push down on the track they splay out more than if you just set your track on the mat'l so they get cut off more. If you push the track sideways on the material the inserts will shift in the slot and get cut again. Also any flex or slop that allows the saw to move on the track will change things.
You should basically have zero play in the motor bearings. If you have any it's too much.
Regarding your PS. The bump on the bottom of the On Track Insert on your saw base sticks down too far so when it hits your material it raises the saw slightly. They've always done that. I don't know why EZ never sorted that out. The fix is to put a piece of sand paper on your material, set your track on the sandpaper, put saw on track and then carefully slide it back and froth so the sandpaper is sanding the bottom of that insert. Keep sanding and checking until when you push your saw into your material it doesn't lift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBabyHuey View Post
I've had a weird issue ever since I started with EZ. When I make a cut on my pbb, I get these aggressive popping / slapping sounds. Usually one as I first start, maybe one in the middle of the cut somewhere & one at the end.
I just realized that it's the sound of the blade taking occasional bites out of my Anti-Chip Edge
I have the orange EZ-Ready EZ-Smart saw, 54" track on a B-300 bridge. I don't remember this happening when clamping track strait to material.
I tend to wonder if there's too much wobble or play in the motor brearings... what else could be causing this?
Are y'all's Anti-Chip Edges smooth? Mine is jagged with little tiny chunks out of it

BTW: The saw pitch was dialed in to a perfect 90 and zero'ed.

PS: when my on-track insert contacts the material underneath, the whole saw shifts slightly up and to the left. That don't seem right. This doesn't seem to have anything to do with the popping/ACE problem though.

Thanks for any input! Bobby
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2015, 01:16 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Sumter, SC
Posts: 3,682
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
Ya, all my inserts have chips in them or are now short so they don't indicate the cut line. The inserts move around too much in track. If you push down on the track they splay out more than if you just set your track on the mat'l so they get cut off more. If you push the track sideways on the material the inserts will shift in the slot and get cut again. Also any flex or slop that allows the saw to move on the track will change things.
You should basically have zero play in the motor bearings. If you have any it's too much.
Regarding your PS. The bump on the bottom of the On Track Insert on your saw base sticks down too far so when it hits your material it raises the saw slightly. They've always done that. I don't know why EZ never sorted that out. The fix is to put a piece of sand paper on your material, set your track on the sandpaper, put saw on track and then carefully slide it back and froth so the sandpaper is sanding the bottom of that insert. Keep sanding and checking until when you push your saw into your material it doesn't lift.
Sean is very possibly on the right track. If the saw and the insert aren't fitting the rail and the board being cut properly, nothing else will work properly.

Burt
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  #4  
Old 08-26-2015, 11:42 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 240
Default Sanding Insert

Here's a couple of photos showing sanding the insert flush, just kind of sneak up on it.

AS far as the ACE, I have another brand too, and the ACE on it seem to hold up a lot better. I've never really compared the two so see what the differences are, although the other brand seems to be made from a more flexible material. When I get back to working on my PBB, I'm thinking about making a solid ACE as others have done - or eliminating it completely and adding a wider insert on the bottom of the base, also as others have done. Making the solid ACE isn't too bad - two passes on the router table to reduce the thickness and two passes on the TS to add the grooves - just a matter of picking up a piece of UHMW long enough.
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  #5  
Old 08-28-2015, 02:16 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Tom, I use solid PVC trim to make my ACE, it is cheap, last longer than the EZ ACE, and I can us it to make an ACE for miter cuts.
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  #6  
Old 08-28-2015, 02:58 PM
Mike Goetzke Mike Goetzke is offline
 
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Posts: 636
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Most of my 10+ year old ACE's are still in good order. My "new & improved" ones have long been thrown in the trash (they had to of changed the plastic recipe). I have found if you use a decent blade an ACE doesn't buy you much. I miss it more for quick registering the cut line than anything.

Mike
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  #7  
Old 08-28-2015, 03:27 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
Tom, I use solid PVC trim to make my ACE, it is cheap, last longer than the EZ ACE, and I can us it to make an ACE for miter cuts.
Thanks Dik, I'll check for some 1/2" PVC and see if I can knock out a few lengths.

Mike,

I made a fixture for setting the track relative to the cut line (see photos) - the cursor is moveable so can be adjusted for different blades or saws. The second (RH) scribe line is for the outside edge of the kerf in case I ever want to have the part to the right of the track, normally have the finished part under the track so use the LH line.

Tom
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Last edited by tomp913; 08-28-2015 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  #8  
Old 08-28-2015, 05:44 PM
Mike Goetzke Mike Goetzke is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Thanks Dik, I'll check for some 1/2" PVC and see if I can knock out a few lengths.

Mike,

I made a fixture for setting the track relative to the cut line (see photos) - the cursor is moveable so can be adjusted for different blades or saws. The second (RH) scribe line is for the outside edge of the kerf in case I ever want to have the part to the right of the track, normally have the finished part under the track so use the LH line.

Tom
Thanks Tom - I was using an old SSRK block with a wire but this looks much better.

Mike
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  #9  
Old 08-28-2015, 08:20 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Goetzke View Post
Thanks Tom - I was using an old SSRK block with a wire but this looks much better.

Mike
It's pretty simple, but I could send a couple more photos if interested.

Tom
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  #10  
Old 08-28-2015, 11:07 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
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Tom. I use 3/4" PVC trim and plane one side down to 1/2", then make the cuts on the TS for the "T" to fit the slot.
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