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Old 12-20-2015, 05:14 PM
kenk kenk is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 283
Default EZ-1: A few questions about bracing & the left rail side

Now that I have my EZ-1 I find myself wondering two things...

(1)
The current version has braces on the short sides of the legs. Do you find it helpful to also brace the long sides of the legs?

(2)
It appears that folks mostly use the right side of the guide rail for cuts (assuming you're using a right-handed saw and are standing at the bridge handle facing the EZ-1).

How do EZ-1 users tend to use the left side of the guide rail?

I'd noticed on one of the youtube videos that the sliding SSME's had a 45 degree bevel kerf cut on the left side. I found that interesting.
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2015, 12:27 PM
jkr jkr is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Western Mass
Posts: 21
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Hi Kenk-
1) I had lots of trouble squaring the EZ-1. Ran across some threads extolling the virtues of bracing the table. I put upper and lower braces on the long sides, and upper braces on the short sides, and was finally able to square the cross-piece extrusions to the bridge in an easy, unforced way, and everything tends to stay square. Probably overkill, but made a big difference for me. Note that I am a hobbyist only, and was largely inexperienced. My EZ-1 would be a pain to move, but I'm very satisfied with it as it is. I also put some shelves on the braces.

2) Other than a few experimental cuts, I found I never cut on the left side of the rail. I ended up removing the ace, cutting it in sections something like 4-6" long, and putting a few of the sections back on the bridge. These slide easily. I usually move them out of the way and use the left side of the bridge for squaring.
I also move them out of the way whenever I want to use the left side of the bridge for measuring. For example, I put some stops flush against the left side of the bridge, a board under it, and ripped the board. The board of course is the distance from the left side of the bridge to the left side of the blade. Now, if I want to rip a short width, I put stops the desired width from the left side of the bridge, put the spacer board flush to the stops, and feed the board to cut up against the spacer board. The keeper piece is under the bridge. When cutting, I slide some of the small ace pieces so they rest on my spacer board, or on the wood I'm cutting in most other circumstances. They help prevent wood movement and keep the bridge totally flat, equal to the ace on the right side of the bridge.

(I hope the above is fairly coherent. I'm somewhat rushed.)

Disclaimer: For the most part, I fumble my way around, learning by trial and error and the wonderfully helpful threads I find here. I've often come up with ways of doing things I've considered very good for saving time or improving accuracy, only to later find errors in my approach, and better ideas from other people. What I mean is please take nothing I say for granted. My intentions may be good but my knowledge is limited.

Judd
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  #3  
Old 12-22-2015, 12:17 AM
whitejacket whitejacket is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 533
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Regarding bracing all the way around, this is what I have done with my EZ-1. I used 1x3 braces attached to all 4 legs. This has created a very stable table and does not add much weight. I can easily move around my table and have no worries about losing accuracy. In addition, having braces around the entire table allows for easy addition of a shelf, which I have not yet done but the ability is there.

Regarding using the left side, considering I only use right blade saws and always cut from the front end of the table I have never used the left side for cutting. Now sometimes I will reference a work piece to tape measures attached to the front squaring rail zeroed to the cut line to the left and to the right. So for me the keeper can be either on the left or on the right.

Joe
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