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  #11  
Old 03-20-2018, 11:34 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Looks like the same idea.

Had to wince when I saw the first "tip", brought up a bad memory. Used to something similar for years when cutting thin strips of plastic laminate for self edge and so on except I used to tape down a small scrap of laminate to the saw table with duct tape, Set the fence on top and run the blade up. Did it probably hundreds of times until the time the tape didn't hole and the laminate spun around and the corner hit me in the side - had a hell of a bruise for a couple of weeks. After that, I broke down and bought the little V-shaped fence made for that to slip under the fence. I couldn't find a link to it on Google, I'll have to look at it and see if there's a manufacturer's name on it.
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  #12  
Old 03-21-2018, 07:51 AM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I could see where that might bring back some bad memories.
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  #13  
Old 03-21-2018, 03:36 PM
Tracedfar Tracedfar is offline
 
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I was impressed with the System 130 but it just didn't take off and it's impossible to find one. The closest I've come for consistency is the Incra system. I have their router system. It's overkill for everything but joinery (which is really cool).

If I go back to a cabinet saw, I'll probably get their fence. I suppose one could make templates for it just like the for the router system.
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  #14  
Old 03-21-2018, 05:44 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Read that Grex the nail gun people had bought the rights to System 130 but there is nothing about it on their website. Pro cabinet shops are mostly cnc routers now so maybe 130's day had passed.
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  #15  
Old 03-21-2018, 06:58 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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So, how hard would it be to implement the same "concept" with EZ system. Although, if a kerf cut on a board is enough to set a stop, most of it would be easy. However, the relationship between a cabinet panel height, and the length of a door stile in the system I am following is 3mm so there might be at least one place where there is a micro-adjustment... perhaps a spacing strip or an indexed eccentric knob for a micro adjustment or something. Just thinking out loud.

If you read Bob Buckley's book, I am not sure that everything is CNC, and certainly for the little guy it isn't. I believe he says you require a Panel Saw, an Edge bander, and a line borer. I am guessing the rest of the functions can be accomplished however you see fit from there
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  #16  
Old 03-21-2018, 10:53 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Buckley's book is almost 20 years old, I think things might have changed. Router replaces panel saw and line borer.
Still not sure I understand what you're trying to accomplish. IMO you need to start with and accurate measuring system on your fence. If you want do something like the System 130 just make up a little module with flip stops that slide along your fence that gives you the cut offsets you want.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
So, how hard would it be to implement the same "concept" with EZ system. Although, if a kerf cut on a board is enough to set a stop, most of it would be easy. However, the relationship between a cabinet panel height, and the length of a door stile in the system I am following is 3mm so there might be at least one place where there is a micro-adjustment... perhaps a spacing strip or an indexed eccentric knob for a micro adjustment or something. Just thinking out loud.

If you read Bob Buckley's book, I am not sure that everything is CNC, and certainly for the little guy it isn't. I believe he says you require a Panel Saw, an Edge bander, and a line borer. I am guessing the rest of the functions can be accomplished however you see fit from there
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  #17  
Old 03-21-2018, 11:05 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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Well, 8 years old.

Just trying to understand how to do project based story sticks. I am not sure flip stops help me since I want to have one per project instead of a measured drawing. Rick's kerfed stops might be a solution but I would think if I can do a board similar to the one in the picture tomp913 posted earlier in the thread.

System 130 was just a tangent on the conversation. As was true32 and Buckley. Cabinets are easy to talk about as an example but I am thinking of any/all projects chairs, tables etc.
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  #18  
Old 03-21-2018, 11:36 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
Well, 8 years old.

Just trying to understand how to do project based story sticks. I am not sure flip stops help me since I want to have one per project instead of a measured drawing. Rick's kerfed stops might be a solution but I would think if I can do a board similar to the one in the picture tomp913 posted earlier in the thread.

System 130 was just a tangent on the conversation. As was true32 and Buckley. Cabinets are easy to talk about as an example but I am thinking of any/all projects chairs, tables etc.
If you want accurate repeatability with the stops, the incra flip stop and fence is rack/pinion style. Should be easy to get back into position without cutting kerfs. Well, that's if everything else stays constant.
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  #19  
Old 03-21-2018, 11:39 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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But then I would need one for each project wouldn't I?
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  #20  
Old 03-21-2018, 11:56 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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It sounds more as if you're looking at some way to standardize on cabinet manufacturing dimensions rather than what I understand as a story stick. I did a quick search on Google and came up with this video which explains what I understand as a story stick http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2006...-a-story-stick- he's measuring locations for cabinets and other features of the installation, but it could just as easily be used to mark location of piping, electrical components or something similar. When I was making countertops, and this primarily in a remodeling environment, we would measure the area where the top was being installed to make sure that the walls were straight and corners were square - both of which rarely happened. If the area was badly out, we used to make a "template" out of strips of cheap plywood (I've seen us take old paneling that we removed and cut it into 3" strips to use for this) - fit the strips into the area and glue the ends together with hot melt glue (and later put staples at the joints to make them hold together). Back in the shop, we could build the top to suit the template. This worked really well for tops that fitted between two walls - kind of like the rig for measuring stair treads but on a much larger scale. Take a look at the Cabinet Making videos put out by Marc Sommerfeld; in the first video, he goes into some detail about how he builds cabinets, and how he has standardized on the dimensions for the various features - depth, height, stile and rail widths, drawer depths, etc. - so when he's making a specific cabinet, the only variable is the width - e.g. is the cabinet width 18", 24", 36"? - and he just subtracts the dimension of the fixed parts to get the size of the variable part.
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