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Old 04-25-2013, 12:17 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
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Default Beginning my cabinet project

I have all my dimensions ready in cutlist plus, and i'm ready to buy the sheet goods.

They will be frameless euro-style cabinets 72" tall, 18" depth, 44" width. with four full overlay slab doors per cabinet.

One thing that worries me is that my plans call for accuracy down to a 64th on the doors. I am tackling this with my cordless makita and ripsizer (may possibly convert to UEG for the project). Am I in over my head? I do not have a jointer.

The doors are supposed to be 1/16th from every edge (except each other) for a total of 1/8" gap when the cabinets are placed side by side. I think I'm supposed to have 1/16th total space between the double door opening (so 1/32 per cabinet on that edge). The tricky part is that I'm applying iron-on edge banding.

This leaves me with a FINAL (after banding) door of 21-27/32" x 35-7/8". But my cutting dimensions before banding are 21-51/64 x 35-53/64... My biggest worry is setting the ripsizer fence perfectly. From there it should be smooth sailing.

Any suggestions before i begin to tackle this project?

-Christopher


edit: i do have a router and a spiral bit. Would it be smart to cut the doors oversized and "trim to fit" using my track as a straight edge until i reach the desired dimension? Then use a flush trim bit on the other pieces to duplicate?

Last edited by tofu; 04-25-2013 at 12:23 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2013, 02:15 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Austin, Tx.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
I have all my dimensions ready in cutlist plus, and i'm ready to buy the sheet goods.

They will be frameless euro-style cabinets 72" tall, 18" depth, 44" width. with four full overlay slab doors per cabinet.

One thing that worries me is that my plans call for accuracy down to a 64th on the doors. I am tackling this with my cordless makita and ripsizer (may possibly convert to UEG for the project). Am I in over my head? I do not have a jointer.

The doors are supposed to be 1/16th from every edge (except each other) for a total of 1/8" gap when the cabinets are placed side by side. I think I'm supposed to have 1/16th total space between the double door opening (so 1/32 per cabinet on that edge). The tricky part is that I'm applying iron-on edge banding.

This leaves me with a FINAL (after banding) door of 21-27/32" x 35-7/8". But my cutting dimensions before banding are 21-51/64 x 35-53/64... My biggest worry is setting the ripsizer fence perfectly. From there it should be smooth sailing.

Any suggestions before i begin to tackle this project?

-Christopher


edit: i do have a router and a spiral bit. Would it be smart to cut the doors oversized and "trim to fit" using my track as a straight edge until i reach the desired dimension? Then use a flush trim bit on the other pieces to duplicate?
Christopher,
here's a shot of some euro doors I just built for a linen. They're MDF, but the principle to make them is fairly universal for any/all flush-euro doors.

Whenever I'm doing flush doors with 1/8" reveal, I cut the finished door panels to the finished size of the sum total of all of the doors involved (at least as many doors as can be cut out of one sheet of the door material). Then, when I cut the doors apart, the saw kerf becomes my reveal.
In this case, since it was only MDF, there was no banding, only some light sanding; run the 1/8" round-over bit around the edges; bore for the euro-hinges; pre-prime the edges; prime the whole door; sand; paint; hang.

In your case, since you'll be using edge banding, I would modify my approach like this:
-measure the entire area to be covered by the doors (again, as many as can be cut out of one sheet of door-panel material). Subtract the thickness of the total # of edgebands that will be used. Eg. if the cabinet is 2 doors wide, and 4 tall, you will be using 4 pieces of edgeband on the width, and 8 pieces on the height. Subtract the dimension of these thicknesses accordingly (ie. 4 for the width; 8 for the height). Cut the overall piece of door panel to this lesser dimension (full door coverage dimension minus the thickness of the edge bandings).
Once you have this cut, then make your cross cuts to make the doors. When you then band each door and hang them, you should end up with the saw-kerf distance between each door.

If this is too imprecise, you can make a template of the door blanks out of some 1/4" MDF. Then, rough-cut (w/in ~1/16") the door blanks; clamp the template to the door blanks; run a pattern-routing bit; apply edge banding; hang doors; etc.

When I cut this stuff out, I prefer track over UEG, but I'm sure the UEG/ripsizer could work.
HTH,
Ricko
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2013, 03:04 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Rick, using the kerf to cut the reveal is brilliant. I guess this is the kind of knowledge that comes from experience.

With your advice, I could try to cut them to size, and be ready for banding with the track, but your suggestion to use 1/4 mdf template seems like the safest route for me. At least if I make a mistake, I won't need a new sheet of ply ( and id have to avoid making a mistake 8 times for 8 doors). I will practice precision accuracy on a less expensive project

Thanks again,
Christopher
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:13 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Austin, Tx.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
Rick, using the kerf to cut the reveal is brilliant. I guess this is the kind of knowledge that comes from experience.

With your advice, I could try to cut them to size, and be ready for banding with the track, but your suggestion to use 1/4 mdf template seems like the safest route for me. At least if I make a mistake, I won't need a new sheet of ply ( and id have to avoid making a mistake 8 times for 8 doors). I will practice precision accuracy on a less expensive project

Thanks again,
Christopher
Christopher, here's a couple of other 'tricks' that might help. (Apologies ahead of time if you're already past this point.)

As you mentioned, in your original post, in so many words, building doors is basically just a matter of 'doing the math'. When I'm banding doors, the question for me, is, "How much space does the banding take up in the math equation?"
To figure that out, I make a small blank, say 6"-10" square, making sure it is exact. Then, I band all sides of the blank. If I've done correctly, the banded door dimensions will be the same in both directions. (If not, now's the time to find out why.)
The difference between the banded door and the un-banded blank tells you how much to allow when making the door blanks.

Also, because trying to maintain 1/64ths, or whatever, is rather difficult, when I'm ready to hang the doors, I start with the perimeter doors and hang them first. Then, after all of the doors are hung, I adjust accordingly.
Most folks can't tell if the reveal between doors is 1/8", but, if the outer edges of the doors aren't in right relationship with the outer edges of the cabinet, they'll notice.
(Note: If I have a huge wall of cabinets/doors, I change the door hanging sequence: clamp a horiz. straight edge along the face of the cabinets where the tops of the lower doors are supposed to be. Then, starting with the middle door, on the bottom row of doors, abut the doors to the straight edge and fasten them in place.
Adjust them to be correct. Then, place a 1/8" spacer between those doors and the doors that go above them. Fasten the upper doors in place; adjust; hope it's all correct...... :

HTH,
Rick
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  #5  
Old 04-26-2013, 02:31 AM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
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Rick, even more great advice! Thanks for all the ideas.

I had planned on using digital calipers to measure the banding and just doubling it to arrive at my pre-banded door size

i'm not sure if the banding will change thickness when it's heated and the glue melts. The manufacturer has a specification, but who knows how accurate that is. I will take your advice and stick it to a scrap piece of mdf, and measure with my calipers off of that rather than trusting the manufacturer.


-Christopher
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2013, 10:24 AM
mkdrep mkdrep is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpnstump View Post
Christopher,
here's a shot of some euro doors I just built for a linen. They're MDF, but the principle to make them is fairly universal for any/all flush-euro doors.

Whenever I'm doing flush doors with 1/8" reveal, I cut the finished door panels to the finished size of the sum total of all of the doors involved (at least as many doors as can be cut out of one sheet of the door material). Then, when I cut the doors apart, the saw kerf becomes my reveal.
In this case, since it was only MDF, there was no banding, only some light sanding; run the 1/8" round-over bit around the edges; bore for the euro-hinges; pre-prime the edges; prime the whole door; sand; paint; hang.

In your case, since you'll be using edge banding, I would modify my approach like this:
-measure the entire area to be covered by the doors (again, as many as can be cut out of one sheet of door-panel material). Subtract the thickness of the total # of edgebands that will be used. Eg. if the cabinet is 2 doors wide, and 4 tall, you will be using 4 pieces of edgeband on the width, and 8 pieces on the height. Subtract the dimension of these thicknesses accordingly (ie. 4 for the width; 8 for the height). Cut the overall piece of door panel to this lesser dimension (full door coverage dimension minus the thickness of the edge bandings).
Once you have this cut, then make your cross cuts to make the doors. When you then band each door and hang them, you should end up with the saw-kerf distance between each door.

If this is too imprecise, you can make a template of the door blanks out of some 1/4" MDF. Then, rough-cut (w/in ~1/16") the door blanks; clamp the template to the door blanks; run a pattern-routing bit; apply edge banding; hang doors; etc.

When I cut this stuff out, I prefer track over UEG, but I'm sure the UEG/ripsizer could work.
HTH,
Ricko
Lot's of good stuff you are sharing here, Rick! thanks very much!! Mark
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